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B7 RS4s are indeed sought after, but here’s the rub. There are some beautiful examples out there, but there’s also some high milers, and that’s reflected in the price. They also need to be driven, but I appreciate it would be a summer car, rather than daily driver. €50k is roughly £42k GBP. That’s top money, and I’m not convinced this car, although desirable necessarily falls into that camp. Again, just my opinion. Few reasons, I think the Avant is generally more sought after, especially when it comes to resale. In addition, colour is everything. Sprint blue is attractive as a factory colour, but Audi also made the RS4 in Imola Yellow, which is very rare under their Audi exclusive scheme which would have been a custom colour. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but it has provenance having been used on the B5 RS4 Avant a few years earlier. History is everything too. To command a top selling price it needs documented history from new, all keys, and any remedial work such as a recommission if it’s been in storage, so basically it’s turn key and go. My advice for what it’s worth is to potentially travel and set up a few appointments. At the end of the day these are getting to be old cars, so pictures can be deceptive. What are undersides like, any corrosion? Also, do some research on parts availability.

Hello again Luke, It is evident you have returned to the forum a couple of times ( last about 20 hrs ago), but seem intent on not updating the forum on your current situation. Could you please have a read of ‘New members please read’ which you would have had access to when you joined, and then come back with the latest update. Thanks, Gareth.

My Audi A6 C7 has no power to the MMI screen. What I’ve checked so far is as follows: 1. 1. fuse. Ok 2. Done the reset. 3. Opened the dash board checked the blue/red and brown power connector, no power. 3. Peeled back the soft cable cover to the screen to check wires for damage. The red/blue had slight damage. Cut and soldered, still no power. Now I’m really in a pickle. The radio, media, Bluetooth all work fine. It is just not getting power to light up the screen. Any ideas?

Facing the same servo restricted issue, but some strange behaviour after replacing the sensor. Initial fault codes: UO41600: Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle) U041500: Invalid Data Received From, Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle) Replaced with an Amazon sensor. Immediately restarted and fault codes were: UO41600 + U041500 as above. Time corresponds to after replacing. CO54B00: Vacuum Sensor "A" Circuit Low Vacuum_Sensor_1:_Line_is_low Time corresponds to after replacing. I then cleared the codes (with Car Scanner app, not VCDS) and now have this: UO41600 + U041500 as above. 264448 Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle) From module 03 ABS control unit. (264448 preceded the CO54B00 code above, but this doesn't have any more details). Would appreciate any suggestions as to my next options. At the moment I am considering: Complete a normal drive cycle (although worried about bricking the ABS). Try clearing the codes with VCDS (although previous posts here suggest clearing codes shouldn't even be necessary). Try refitting the sensor, checking wires and the o-ring. Get another sensor (likely not aftermarket from Amazon).

Steady Neil, we don't allow topic bumping.

Thank you very much for your replies - this is all very helpful. The service history is as follows: Date of Service Type of Service Vehicle Mileage 05/12/2025 Inspection Service 67,379 01/08/2024 Oil Change Service 61,162 04/08/2023 Used Car MPC 56,479 04/08/2023 Oil Change Service 56,479 04/08/2023 Brake Fluid Change 56,479 11/02/2022 MOT (passed) 43,772 23/08/2021 Interval Service 38,706 04/09/2020 Interval Service 29,582 13/11/2018 Oil Change Service 9,753 I bought the car in August 2023 and its had one oil change since I've had it with one inspection service. These cars don't even have a dipstick so you cant check the oil is clear when it comes out of an oil change service I bought it from a main dealer in good faith and I suppose you assume with a full Audi service history that they would have changed the oil more regularly. Seems I was dead wrong to assume

Thank-you. Sofar I have not been successful. I am in the north of Scotland and the one local audio specialist can't help.

Hi if its a new module it will need coding to the car but if the brake is working it can't be that, what're you trying to clear the code with?. Steve.

Already gone but I don't know how to delete the posting

Hi it depends how near to the DAB aerial you have fitted any cable for the camera if you have run the rear anywhere through the head liner the whole cab needs suppressor units every foot, it also depends if you have hard wired the unit, which brand of camera do you have they all have their own little quirks. Steve.

Alan. Did this behaviour coincide with the fitting of the dashcams described in your other topic? If so, try unplugging them. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/31745-dashcam-fitted-now-losing-radio-stations/#comment-133331

I don't know specifically about your car, but the behaviour you describe is typical of modern automatic gearboxes. If the changes up and down are imperceptible, and can only be noticed on the dashboard display, I would not worry about it.

Cheers for the advice Clifford. Appreciate it, will give it a try and report back 👍

I’ll keep you all posted once I’ve found someone who can do an electrical test. Appreciate all the responses, thank you 😀

Ahhh this make more sense, a company claiming it is something when in actual fact it isn’t, sound about right, and even managed to get everyone on board calling it a CVT when it isn’t. Anyway, back on topic lol I have read the car with an OBD2 reader and have no faults, I’m to the understanding that it needs to be read on VCDS for more in-depth look to any gearbox faults

Just reset the fault. It’ll be fine. Did you stop when the pump clicked? Don’t overfill the tank.

This topic is going nowhere so I am closing it.

On Android here, and all working as expected.

Hi anyone else had a oil leak under the airfilter box around the rear of bell housing (see pics) When i start the car and rev i can't see it leaking from anywhere Does not smell like gearbox fluid so i assume it's engine oil, only thing i can see is the vacuum pump nipple is a bit loose back and forward play but don't know if that would cause this mess 20260710_212435.mp4

Thanks for clarifying, Gareth. I understand now that your earlier suggestion was specifically about Richard's replacement bolt rather than just any M12 × 1.5 bolt. I've contacted Spareto regarding the original part number to see if they can confirm the exact dimensions and availability. They also stock the longer N90924103 bolt that Richard found, so I'm waiting to hear back from them before deciding which route to take. Thanks again to everyone for the help and suggestions.

No it's got a few years left on it yet.

It went back to him twice, he thought it was a defective radar unit. So I had that checked by a local specialist that I know & trust, he confirmed it, so new one sourced, Swapped, coded & seperate re-aligned. Still doesn’t play full time. Audi retrofits only works Tues - Thurs most weeks & he’s 120 miles away from me, so a full day, early start & £50 return trip in fuel to get it to him! I am cross to say the least! he professes to fit the Adaptive cruise as a retrofit but it seems his skill & knowledge doesn’t extend to fault finding! But he’s messed this up completely. Went to him on a recommend too. I’m pretty certain the issue is in the wiring loom close to the RH unit, I’m just after any insights into any other connector in the engine bay that side for the radar unit. It’s only 3 cores, so once I get the air filter etc out the way & can get at the entire loom, I can just break into it & do a continuity check on the loom to the pins in the radar unit connector. I’m certain there’s a ‘stretch’ break in it somewhere close to the unit connector, where he disconnected it to remove the number, I just need to prove it then find it, replacing, repairing &/or extending those 3 cores is a simple job once I can get in there.

Hi guys. New to the forum but have had VW/Audi for a few years now and have just bought a 2014 S3. Never had a 4wd/quattro before. Got it for reasonable money as there is a noise in the rear which I am pretty sure is the rear diff. Doesn’t seem to be a wheel bearing as noise doesn’t change with change of direction and it seems to get a bit louder when I let off throttle/coast. Again never diagnosed anything with a 4wd system so from reading forums that seems to equate to possibly rear diff. Question is will a rear diff from a same year A3 1.8 FSI Quattro fit? Part numbers are the same and letter at the end is. I intend to drain a little bit of diff oil and see if any metal in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and looking forward to sharing any experiences or knowledge I have along the way.

Thank you! I will try that!

Morning can I and if so how change from d2s to 3ds headlights audi a6 c6 4f allroad 2008 thanks