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I Have a Audi Quattro 3.0 TDI 2015 MODEL. I Am looking to fit Mud flaps to the front and rear. I Know Audi never made mud flaps for this car. Does anyone know if it is possible to get rubber mud flaps for this car. I would be very grateful if any body knows where i can get them.

Not necessarily so. As I mentioned in an A6 C5 topic I only recently discovered the previous owner of my car had removed the EGR valve, however I had no problems with emissions when I put the car through its MOT in September. I realise this may not be the case for everyone but that's my personal experience if it's any help.

Do t get me started. My wife's Jag xe is getting harder and harder to insure. Companies don't want to touch anything from the jaguar land rover group. It's about time insurance companies were more heavily regulated

The stink may be unrelated to the DPF. For example paint or oil or underseal spilt onto the exhaust will slowly be burning off. There may even be a dead animal decomposing.

Probably, but there would be no point if the battery is damaged, so get it tested first.

It drives fine, the engine light disappeared and has not been on atm but I don’t want it to get proper bad.

Has anybody tried or using a pedal tune on a A7 55tfsi? I've seen that they remove the lag from the accelerator, just wondering if I should take the plunge and get one. Maybe APR or Burger Motorsport, but there seems to be lots more to choose from. I would be good if anyone could recommend one if they are using it.

Hey, did you ever find out what the issue was? i have the exact same issue currently. installed a new pioneer head unit. couldnt get it to work. re installed the old one and got the issue. Iv gone so far as to install a new TCM, after finding power at the TCM and no blown fuses. If you found a solution id really appreciate some help Cheers

Hello all, I have the same issue since a while now. Initially it was an single time issue then it became an intermittent issue. Then I figured out while pressing the brake before even touching the start button, it bypass the error. However, I decided to solve the issue and ran a diagnostic where the main error was P0C2900 - Auxiliary transmission fluid pump driver circuit , Performance After this, we ordered a new coolant with the following reference (0CK325583J upgraded version, 2019 -) initial version is H but vendor recommended J). https://www.oemvwshop.com/0ck325583h-engine-p546436/ So upon installing this with a new oil and gasket kit, and upgrading the software from v0002 to v0008 the error is back, yet different. This time the error show when turning on the car (one click and engine off) but goes away once the turning the engine and error disappears. Any ideas? Is there a error memory or an adaptation procedure? Thanks

Like a '70s hot rod mate!

Sadly no. I've part ex'd them with another set, ironically a set I dont need so they may appear here.

no never got it sorted I'm still driving it and it has got no better or worse

Thanks Gareth i am going to buy the full section this is how they are usually sold on eBay it also seems to be the cheapest option, the part number i am using for a comparison is from the driveshaft difficult to use part number from hub, no barcode or sticker part number. So I am buying the same part number driveshaft with the hub attached, I have now sourced and purchased one I’m hoping this will be the one. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for your response I appreciate it. Yes you would think that but no I am doing the hunting for the parts. Mine have been removed now so I am comparing parts via images and numbers but none seem to be exact.

I’m about 90% complete with this job now I’m just waiting on a replacement spring as one of the ones I was sent was incorrect. Ordered on Monday but still not here frustratingly. It’s went a lot better than I was expecting a few tricky bolts etc and don’t get me started on the electric connector for the headlight levelling sensor! Here are some pics of the progress: I was able to keep the callipers connected by firstly removing the shock and passing it under the upper control arm which saved a bit of time. it’s been quite satisfying renewing the rear end with new components, bolts etc. Here is a better picture of why I replaced my subframe in the first place: It was actually the same both sides. Word of warning treat your subframe now before it’s too late! Also I couldn’t figure out how to remove the bushes and the ones on the replacement subframe were far better than mine were so I will be sending those back. I will update here if I run into any alignment issues. At the moment the subframe is only partially fitted to allow the spring replacement.

My hearing is not good, so I cannot judge or comment on it. What I will say, is that any vehicle making any unusual noises is trying to tell you something. If it were mine, I would be getting this assessed by a trusted local independent without delay. Please let us know how you get on Arron. Kind regards, Gareth.

A quick update after fitting a new battery with no change I tested the hall sender by disconecting and grounding the middle connector and got the good spark I've been after so the dizzy is out and looking to source a new sender, if anyone can point me to a good supplier, along with new oil seals and fibre washers for the dizzy whilst it's out.

Got the same engine in a 2017 A4 Allroad. The 3.0 TDI and Tiptronic 8-speed is wonderful to drive. Loads of low end torque. On A6, then you have air suspension as standard. Normally pretty bullet proof, but these cars are getting on a bit, so due diligence and all that. If you have access to VCDS, then worth scanning the car for any historic faults. This will be Euro 6, so have AdBlue, DPF and EGR. Use premium diesel and don't do short start stop journeys. Make sure nothing has been deleted. Suspension wise, if over 100k miles check advisories on previous MOTs. Upper arm and front lower trailing arms (hydra bushes). Check all the toys work. Sat Nav will likely need update, and potentially need air con regas. History is critical, so that's oil changes every 5-8k miles, 10k miles at a push. Rear diff gear oil change by 100k miles and ZF make service kit for transmission. Personally I'd do by 8 years or 80k miles. Check bodywork, but normally age well with very little rust. Rear subframes known to get crusty, so wash down and coat with Lanoguard. Not aware of issues with panoramic sunroof if fitted. B8 A4 platform was different and plagued with issues. Clean out drain channels. Specific grease from VW to lube guides, although expensive.

Brilliant, thank you.

Hi all I’m just wondering if someone can help me, I have some fault codes on my Audi a1 after having a new alternator/belt and tensioner

Hey guys, I think I'm having the same issue, loss of coolant no visible leak no evidence of anything in the oil e.t.c. Curious if you had come to an answer. TIA

Hello all. Just bought a 75k miles 2018 1.6TDI which also makes an intermittent high pitched squeal from the right / rear side of the car. Turning the engine off & restarting sometimes stops the noise. Car is going back to the garage where we bought it from & I will update you on outcome. Not holding my breath as they sold the car with 1 winter tyre (FOS) 1 part worn (FNS) & 2 cheapo-no-grip on the rear!

Hi there, we haven't unfortunately. Not heard of this show. Will check it out.

OK Colin, now we understand. I would be surprised if 17 wasn’t standard/ available option. Now you need to check the hand book/ inside fuel filter cap to ensure that is correct, and that the tyre width and profile match what is specified, and the tyre pressures are set to the required pressure Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ash, I have replied on your post as well, just out of curiosity did it cost more to insure been an import ?