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Hi Neil, I'm glad you like the S7, I bought it a few weeks ago and am really enjoying the drive. Your point about 'a nice set of wheels' is a good one, as that is exactly what I'm doing. I have found pictures of a genuine Audi 15 spoke alloy with diamond cut silver spokes and a polished rim, but I cant find any to look at in the 'flesh'. My local Audi dealer can get them from Germany, but if I order them I have to have them. As a consequence I am ordering one single wheel to see what they are like and to try on the car, and if all good I will order another 3. If all goes to plan I will post some additional pictures. Thanks Neil Chris

Hi, if you are going to purchase a new Maf sensor make sure it an original one, I bought a cheap ebay one and it gave me more problems, the misfire could be the spark plugs if they haven't been changed recently, unfortunately the sensors can go bad easily with the TT, I had the red oil light on my dash, I changed the oil pump and pick-up pipe and it didn't fix it, I then bought a oil pressure sensor, it solved the problem, the sensor was only £15, the TT likes to test us 🤣

We have B9.5 S-line on 19" wheels (A5 mind you). Yes it is firm but looks amazing and I think I notice the ride more than my wife. The flat bottom wheel etc. also look great.

Thank you

Yep that was the date I was after and yes they sent me one for my car. Date was Nov 2019. From the earlier discussion we (you guys) seem to think the 2021 registration date is not too unusual a gap from build to registration. So how does VIN work, if the sticker in the car and the build record show 2019, how is the VIN showing 2020 "L"?

See my pic of the 11th March on the previous page

I've got an Audi 100 2.3E with the NF engine. Sometimes when I start it it runs ok. Sometimes when I try to start it it wont. Sometimes when I start it it runs bad, often stalls. When it runs well fuel pressure (system and control) is good, differential pressure around 0.4 bar, the EHA doing it's job as it should. When it runs bad the fuel pressure is way off. Differential pressure around 0.2 bar. I've checked the EHA current by turning ignition on but not starting. Sometimes it's at around 120mA, sometimes around 20mA, sometimes something else. It should of course be the same every time. Anyone familiar with this behaviour? Ideas? I'm starting to think the ECU might be broken. Thomas

I admire your patience Sharon. I would have given up on Audis long ago if I had suffered the company's deplorable customer care.

Should say, 1.9tdi s

Remember to press the contacts to ensure their springs are operating freely.

Hi its all dependent on the type of engine you have, there is a setting on VCDS but I can't pin it down because I don't have your car to plug in to, therefore can you supply the information to narrow it down, also check the vacuum pipe to the unit as this can be the original problem as any loss in the air circuit will cause problems. Steve.

Thanks Brian, So would the job normally have cost him £600, or did the warranty cost him that amount? Kind regards, Gareth.

Car fixed. i was lucky it was a cooler pipe that burst. Had to buy a 2nd hand cooler and pipes from ebay only £50. Couldnt get the pupe i need and was told they werent sure when it would be in stock.

Hi Just joined, always end up joining a forum. Last month I bought a 54 plate A3 3.2 sport quattro. Was excellent, now the the 20 year old neglect had started to surface.

I have just started getting the same issue with my 2007 cabriolet. I installed a new MAF and the engine still “pulses” on cold idle and throws up the running lean issue. Exhaust starts popping and there is a “thud” sound from the air intake. However, if i unplug the MAF, the car idles perfect and the pulsing, thuds and pops disappear???? At the moment I am running the car without the MAF plugged in until i can figure out why it doesn't work with a new MAF installed. Would be interested to see how yours runs if you unplugged the MAF? Following this tread to hopefully find some answers.

Have something similar going on with mine. MAF sensor died so cold start and idle makes engine “pulse” and there is the thud from the air intake. I got a new MAF sensor and it didn't fix it. However, when i unplug the sensor, the car idles perfectly and the thudding goes away. Don’t know what to do as clearly the car should have a working MAF sensor but seems to only run properly when the MAF is unplugged?????

I would swap the wires over if possible. If the loom configuration does not allow that, I wonder if you have bought a loom for a left hand drive car.

That suggests that the engine is misfiring when cold. Time to get it tested or return it to the seller.

my dad's car won't start - I have tried changing the fuel filter as the vehicle hasn't been serviced for a while - thought that might have been the problem. the battery wasn't the problem either, double-checked it and tried to start the car with 2 batteries yesterday but had no luck. i plugged in my Foxwell i70ll obd reader to see if any codes came up - only about the number plate bulb and the swirl flaps. but I already know about them. if anyone can help, that would be fantastic, thank you.

How many miles have you done since the pads were replaced? EBC Pads can take up to 150 miles to bed in with normal driving. Some other manufacturers (Brembo or Ferodo) say you should do a bedding in procedure where you break to a near stand still from 60mph three times in a row before driving another mile without touching the brakes to let them cool down. You may also have some pad transfer where the brakes discs have got hot, then sitting on the brake pedal at lights for example, the tiniest amount of pad material transfers to the disc, causing vibration at speed. You can possibly clear this by doing the 60 to near standstill a few times. It's important that you don't stop altogether, otherwise you risk transferring pad material again. Try this before shelling out for new pads or discs. Might help.

Any thoughts on the cause - limp mode when under load over 3000 rpm , possible cause excessive leak back on injectors as its mileage is over 190000.

Hi everyone. I back in an Audi A6 c8. Used to have a C5 Rs6 and a C6 Rs6. Anyway, when I pull away from a stand still on full lock with a bit of acceleration I get a horrible noise from the rear. It sounds like the tyres are scrubbing the tarmac. Some people say this is normal due to the mechanical quattro system but surely Audi can't be happy with this? Has anyone else experienced this? I've replaced the diff oil and fitted new tyres but the noise persists. An ugly characteristic?? Thanks Adam

Hello. Yes, this is totally doable and uses the same mounting points for the belts. If you haven't done it already I would be interested in swapping my middle bench seat for your two middle seats, as I came on here to see if there were any available!

Heel Alan, I think I recall an issue with pressure switches. Worth a thread search across all models. Kind regards, Gareth.

Any sq7 members