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Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

Any advice/help much appreciated.

Hi Steve, Thanks very much for the advice. The car is a 3.0 Quattro Sport with a 6 speed manual gearbox. It has most of the specs listed here https://www.parkers.co.uk/audi/a4/saloon-2000/30-quattro-sport-4d-(6)/specs/ excluding the CD player, which is now after market. The trouble I've been having is that I haven't been able to find any of similar spec for sale, but I'll have another check.

I thought about cambelt and water pump change as they need doing every 50000, I believe they have a cam chain rather than a rubber belt. Price has since been dropped by £500 as well. I've checked out mot history and its been clear each time with no advisory's.

Around 31/2 yrs, was my elderly neighbours but he couldn’t drive anymore so it’s been sat in a garage for almost 10 years! Just looking for a guide to its value as it’s taking up space I need back. thanks.

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

A. See my reply to your other query.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Hi guys. I'm having very similar issues to you all. Only my fault codes do not go away, they cant be reset. I'm currently trickle charging the battery to full, but it sounds like mine too could be a wiring fault. Has anyone got a better description and maybe photos of where their damaged wires were? Cheers Jamie

On all of the other related threads I have seen, including some of the independent technical analysis of the fault there has been no indication that the component when replaced is materially different, I think the part number changed slightly but analysis of that implied it was fundamentally the same system part(s). I am inclined to agree with Mark2, whether its something about the design and implementation around the system and the load upon it that causes it to eventually fail and or a design flaw within the component that with constant loading results at some point in a failure of its ability to charge the 12v battery, it simply doesn't look like Audi intend to proactively identify the true root cause(s) and implement a fix upon which a recall is initiated. It seems they have taken the path (think this was discussed further back in the thread) of letting the customers and dealerships deal with the issue at point of failure and simply replace the part under an extended warranty scheme. No doubt they will have some level of contractual coverage with the component supplier themselves. It's plausible as they focus more on their ev range that they don't want to put time and money on a system and component set that may be considered part of vehicle ranges they will ultimately sunset (speculation only, but plausible). Of course the issue with that is that ultimately it is the consumer that suffers the consequences. They may be able to currently defend their position by pointing to an extended warranty and willingness to repair, but if someone gets hurt or worse as a consequence of being put in harms way by this failure then I suspect things will change very quickly. Will be interesting to see how the class action in the US unfolds and what follows that. MikeyW, regarding the question of whether they fix the issue when replacing the component, the burden of evidence kicking around would imply that they don't. Seems they replace it like for like, inadvertently resetting the countdown for when it will re-occur and there are some theories out their on how to extend that time such as disabling the stop-start each journey via engine sport modes etc. Earlier this year I asked for confirmation as to whether they had identified the root cause and identified an appropriate fix (as opposed to like for replacement) to this specific failure in writing as a condition of completing a purchase of a C8 with one of the largest Audi dealerships in the UK and they wouldn't do it as they said Audi UK didn't recognise it as an issue requiring recall or otherwise. Predictably I was fobbed off with the usual " it is rare and we haven't seen many'. Sadly that it is why I cancelled mine. If interested in the new performance version (a beauty!), if it were me, as a condition of sale I would ask the dealer to confirm in writing via Audi UK that they have changed the implementation and or component in a way that fixes the root cause of the failure. I don't think they will do that, but it is worth a go.

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Perhaps you could update us on the definitive answer from the Parts. Dept. of your local main dealer Bill. Kind regards, Gareth.

Did you find out how to remove the center console in the end?

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer. Steve.

Hi which brand of brake fluid was used when it was changed I have found that you can't just use any DOT4 as this caused quite a few component failures on my car until I settled on Comma ESP4 this is as close as you get to OE without the price tag, even the garage I use has started using what they call the expensive stuff as 2ltres is about the same as what they would have paid for a gallon of the trade stuff, all brake fluid is hydroscopic, [absorbs water] but having done some research it seems the cheaper fluids absorb water faster and the majority of modern car breaking systems rely on fluid viscosity, worth a try?. PS you can't cause damage over filling a brake reservoir. Steve.

Can any Q7 members respond to Natasha’s request. How long have you owned yours Natasha, how many miles has it done, and how much oil does it consume in x miles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Thankyou , Steve ..

Does anyone have a copy of the fitting instructions for front (81A.075.111) and rear (81A.075.101) mud flaps ? (bought a set online but no instructions were provided, and I contacted Audi customer services but they just directed me to Erwin)

Hey, i got an audi a6 c6 allroad half year ago. Recently it started to make clunking sound, which comes from the back. I asked some passenger to listen where does it come from, all of them said that it is coming from inside the car 😀 i think i found the fault part but i am not sure how to fix and did not find any info online. So i think the rear passenger side strut tower support went bad. Now how to change it? Do i need to depressurise the system? I will be taking out the shock to change the strut tower. How does it go? Thanks for info

I went from a 5.5L V8 MB E500(which I owned for 12 years) to my 2017 petrol SQ5 and I love driving it.

Hi Rob, yes its the cover thats behind the mirror if you pull it off its under there its attached to the screen by some sort of metal spring holder it also acts as a humidity sensor for the climate control the other problem sensor is the fresh air one which hangs inside the air intake box under the front scuttle where the window wiper is front left as you sit in car, I just used to clean that in alcohol and it would start working again. Steve.