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I brought my dad with me and he’s pretty good took it for test drive and it was fine was only when I got home did it start

Driving today with 18 miles on electric left, after a few minutes the car changed from electric to petrol. I stopped, turned off and restarted, on electric, then after a few minutes engine changed to petrol. Message about engine came up on the display but cannot remember what it said, it went off very quickly. Any ideas why this is happening?

Didn't you have the car inspected or assessed by somebody knowledgeable before purchase?

Ahhh damn that doesn’t fill me with hope as piston rings are an engine tear down, thanks mate appreciate it will get compression tested and pray

Hi it should start with the right cranking voltage, check the starter motor and battery. Steve.

Hi its got sod all to do with the tank sensors its the manky gauge every car I have ever come across with that system, Peugeot, Citroen, Dacia its a cheap and nasty bit of kit, you can either get the dealer to recalibrate it, if they can, or ask them where to get virtual fuel. Steve.

Hi any warning light even if appears and disappears warrants investigation as the way the software works on Audis is it monitors faults and severity until they come up a maximum of ten times this then defeats the unlearning counter therefore it becomes a permanent code and possibly limp mode, now that you have announced its petrol I would definitely check the injectors but I do suspect if it smokes when accelerating hard it may be worn piston rings, get a compression test done to rule that out. Steve.

Audi parts dept do not have a part number for the 2026 top cover as they are not made. If you have open threaded holes in your engine rocker cover that match the earlier 35tfsi then you can get a top cover from the earlier model. You will need to get the mounting pins as well.

Ok will do that, the thing is it has no check engine light or any lights on the dash it’ll be only when I’m driving they flash up and go after a couple of minutes

Nevertheless the car needs to be scanned on a decent code reader as Steve suggested. Warning lights on the dash are not enough to diagnose faults.

Ahhh gotcha no red oil can on dash

I believe Steve was referring to oil pressure not oil level, hence the possible need for a new oil pump.

Ok thanks 👍

Hi mate thanks for the reply oil levels are sufficient in car has only come on twice now when the weather is very hot, I have the 1.8 tfsi

Hi the low pressure problem, the only way to check is to get it scanned and check the oil pressure on live data, if its the oil can in red on the dash then you have a problem as it could need a new oil pump, worse case, or the strainer on the pump will have to be cleaned, but either way its a sump off job, replacing the PCV may well cure your problem with the smoke but I would be inclined to get the injection checked first along with the EGR function as I am not sure which engine you have but all the later models had the PCV built in to the rocker cover which will mean a new cover. Steve.

HI, 2015 A5 2.0 TDi Sportback 8TA Like many I dont trust the mmi readout, and have seen many dispsticks for A5 but all different lengths and some at silly prices. Is there anyone who has purchased one for this model and have eBay/Amazon link please. Cheers

Unfortunately not owner said he had it for about 8 months

1997 Audi A6 1.9 TDi automatic FN engine No Start After major work extracting an injector which had welded it self into the head entailing the removal of the head, the engine refused to start. The timing has been checked and it will fire perfunctorily, but it appears that the hydraulic tappets are not lifting. We cannot tow the vehicle as it is automatic. Any ideas?

My wife has now been driving the Q3 for about 4 weeks and it has been fine and considerably cheaper to run than the 650i both in petrol and insurance costs. No problem replacing it for the 650i on my multi car insurance. Did have a little bit of a holdup of a couple of weeks with getting it UK registered as DVLA wanted a extra £10 for the 1st years tax on top of the £190 I sent them originally so making it £200 for the year as there was no exact CO2 data on the export certificate so they sent the cheque back and I had to send them another one.

Hi, me again. When trying to troublseshoot my Aircon issue, I was going through the fuses. When checking the cluster in the boot I noticed one was labeled “Quattro Sport”. It’s a 35amp fuse and missing from mine. to be honest I’m not sure if it’s meant to be missing but i had a gear box issue fixed and when it came back sport mode didn’t work. I won’t bore you with the reasons why I left it, but other than that the gearbox has been fine, but I wonder if this fuse has been forgotten? I’ve tried to search online but that just returns searches relating to the sound-system/Amp. 2012 Q5 S-Line+ Anyone with any ideas

Good morning all, Ever since we got our Q5 the aircon has never worked. It’s one of those things “I’ll get done next month” but next month never arrives. Anyway, I’ve actually got on with it and took it to be re-gassed. Still didn’t work. The blowers work, normal heating works, the controls all work, it just won’t get cold. I’ve even check all the fuses. I realise it going to have to go in to be looked but thought I’d raise it here in case it is a driveway job and if not, at least know what I’m looking at. It’s a 2012 S-Line Quattro Thanks in advance.

Have you got a copy of the advert George, and how long did the owner say he had owned it?

The refridgerant gas has probably leaked out from a hole or a worn pump seal. Get the system pressure tested for leaks, and repair as necessary, before having any remaining gas sucked out and replaced with the correct weight of refridgerant. I suggest using an aircon specialist rather than an Audi dealer.

Done.

MODs can you move this to B9 forum please. Car will need scanned with VCDS to see what’s going on. Rear diff gear oil should be good for 100k miles, but no harm in changing it. Double check this part number, with Audi or a motor factor with your registration. G 052 145 S2. Should take around a litre. Sport diffs or Haldex version use a different specification. From my understanding it’s around a litre. You’ll need to check the Allen key fill and drain plugs for size. Pretty sure they are 8mm. Use new plugs (come with thread locker). Tighten to 16Nm of torque. Note they don’t sit flush with the diff. Always pull fill plug first.