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No, never tried it. Cheapest VCDS package is £225 for 3 VIN licence, plus an old laptop. Works on all VAG cars, so Audi, VW, Skoda, etc. Very useful for this procedure. Remember and hook up battery on trickle charge when swapping out discs and pads. You can use it for fuel pump priming, clearing DTCs, fault finding, etc.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

Hi All A weird humming noise has started in my a6 , now it's not very loud but just looking for ideas , it seems to be there when I accelerate and when coasting , it's the same level all the time once started , im wondering wheel bearing, it doesn't seem to change in pitch when turning left or right . I recently had a new outer cv joint fitted and this humming noise has started within 2 weeks . I am uploading a short video , you can hear it as I coast to a stop . Just wondering do ye think wheel bearing , tire noise or something else ?? Ive read about transmission noise can be humming , but don't think it's that as car is driving perfect and absolutely no issue with gear changes or slipping . 20250614_033652.mp4 Thanks

My rule of thumb is 60k miles or 5 years on 4 cylinder diesels. Change the water-pump, and tensioner pulley as a matter of course. Cold starts, towing, extremes of heat all have to be factored in. Do auxilliary belts at the same time. Sure I’ve read that it can go to 140k miles, but if it breaks, then you pick up the bill. It’s not normally the belt but wear on ancillary components such as bearings on pulleys, water-pump, etc.

How often should the timing belt on A3 2013 2.0 TDI be changed ? Thank You.

This wasn’t my list of saved stations in the memory, it was the very top of the list of all stations. May be slightly different in an A3 to a Q3 but can’t be sure without comparing side by side.

I can't get my Mmi to come up with 'UPDATE STATION LIST'How did you get 'UPDATE STATION LIST' to appear at the top of your radio list ? Is that your list of radio channels saved in 'Memory' ?

Does that mean you were not given the service history by Audi when you purchased it?

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

Only it it is any good, and you won't know that unless you get it tested, in which case you might as well get the fitted battery tested. Let me emphasise that simple voltage readings from a multimeter will not tell you if the battery is in good condition. A battery can show over 12 volts and yet have internal faults that can interfere with the delicate electronics of the car causing a variety of seemingly unrelated symptoms, one of those symptoms being a lack of error codes on low quality OBD readers. Until you get the battery tested we can not eliminate it as the cause of the starting problem.

Hello thanks for the advice the ccm ending in a K is only up to 2002 the saloon I have is a 2001 I have found a ccm online identical part numbers so I must get that ordered and now I must try and salvage a few of my connectors instead of having to rewire in all new ones I was thinking of trying to split the case of my own ccm and salvage it but when I got to the inside I can firmly say it is long gone unfortunately hahaha

not sure on the servicing prior to buying it. the car had 21000 miles on so I think it should have been served properly as we bought it from audi silverlink.

You are wasting your money Grant with getting a bigger charger - why? Trying an old battery??? I think I’ll dip out of this one until you report back with the official test results on the battery using meaningful equipment. This has to be the first test.

Thanks Paul, Jason joined and posted on 5th June, but is yet to revisit and come back with any comment. Good, isn’t it? Regards, Gareth.

I have another older 110amp battery. Would it be worth charging that and trying that in its place

So it's a 07 c6 f4 allroad auto. Was hoping that with the attempted jump like you said would at least get the instrument cluster on as it was only a 2lt car the revs were hight but carnt guarantee they were over as i was in the car 20250613_165052_1.mp4 . But it did not. Using a multi meter to test voltage at battery and in engine compartment also from battery to the engine compartment. Iv checked continuity of the earthing from battery to engine block. I checked voltage from battery to engine block and it at 12.6. I tried disconnected the battery module that didn't change anything. Car has been on charge throughout but disconnected for any test then placed bk on charge. Whilst its on charge its only reading 12.7v don't no if that's relevant but got a bigger charger coming 2mrow. I turned the radio off

Shouldn’t be, of course. At what intervals was it serviced in the two years before you bought it, and at what intervals during your ownership - and by an Audi main dealer. Is the dealer/Audi going to seek some form of contribution towards the substantial cost? Regards, Gareth.

Never did come back. Might be worth trying a PM if no response.

yes audi have stripped the engine there were no warnings on the dash.car was running smooth we've had the car 3 yrs & the cars been well looked after so it's a mystery why this has happened.

Thanks Marcin, You may well be right, but it is only an assumption that it is ‘more than the battery’ until the battery has first been properly tested and eliminated as a culprit. This is No.1 test of a series of tests, but we don’t seem to be getting too far. Saying it as I see it, so far, it’s a bit like extracting a sore tooth?

I have the same issue, did you solve the problem?

Thanks Robert, but it would be good if you could answer the questions asked. ‘Crankshaft bearing has failed….’. Um, sounds strange - there are many bearings on the crankshaft. Have they stripped this engine to come up with that diagnosis? Did you have any warning indications/ noises but this failure? This car is not long out of warranty. Have you had it long, have you seen the service history for it if not owned it from new? Regards, Gareth.,

Ouch. That's an expensive repair, and very surprising on a 4 year old car. Has it had a hard life, or the oil levels neglected perhaps?

Not necessarily. Instrument clusters are known to suffer failures which may be unrelated to the starting fault, hence my question about cranking from a jump start, and emphasises Magnet's request for detailed information. So far I think we are left with many possibilties that include: starter motor/wiring, ECM fault, defective battery.

Glad to hear the problem is solved and that you don't need yet another starter motor.