All Activity

First post here so Hi! I have the same issue with my 2016 Avant. After researching the 'web' I'd come to the same conclusion as the OP and above - universal joint. I did have my car booked into my local VAG mechanics to check the issue, but I've had to cancel due to work. I am going to get this checked by the mechanic ASAP, but I have to take the car on holiday tomorrow for a weeks tootle around Wales and I guess I'm just hoping that the wheels don't fall off during the trip. I know that nobody can confirm this, but are there any other more serious scenarios which could cause the same symptoms? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I’m hoping to get some insight on an issue I’m having and if anyone else has had the same/similar. So I bought my A4 B8 in May 2025 and the car was sold with the A/C not working. The button would work as if the A/C had no issues, staying on when pressed, etc. I had the system checked by Halfords who told me that the system had about 450 grams of gas in it and held pressure so they only topped it up 100 grams, but didn’t empty the system out and so on, just recommended replacing the condenser unit which I didn’t do after they quoted me £400. Fast forward to 25°C heats in June in Scotland and I thought I should get around to fixing it. I looked up the codes I got and looked through some forums and it all pointed to the infamous pressure sensor issue. I ordered the new sensor from Autodoc, replaced it, A/C still didn’t work but this time the button would only stay lit up when I held it, turning off as soon as I let go. One thing to note is when replacing the sensor, I didn’t get the little squirt of gas that everyone mentions. Eventually I dropped the car off with a mechanic who did a proper recharge, pulling out 70 grams, doing a leak and pressure test and filling it up with 550 grams. The system supposedly held pressure for 20 minutes and the A/C finally worked as it should. A week later, I was out with friends, A/C working fine, then overnight it was no longer working in the morning, but the button stays lit up like it did at first. So 2 days ago I left the car at the same mechanic who tested the system again and have now said that there is a leak in the system, but they did a bubble test and cannot find the leak anywhere and want to do a further investigation. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas or had the same issue? I don’t know if they tested the sensor for leaks (I’ve seen a couple forums where that was the issue) but where could I be looking next? The car is throwing up the same codes about the lower limit being exceeded and “No Signal/Communication” with sensor. Could it be the sensor has failed again for some reason and leaked all the gas? TIA everyone

Hi folks, After best part of 10 years of ownership of my RS4 (B8) I am now looking for a change. My question is where is it best to advertise your car for sale - I've put it up on a few of the forums I've been active with, but wondering wether Autotrader, Pistonheads or others are where RS buyers lurk? What are your thoughts and experiences? Thanks! Sam

Hi there guys i have a 2007 audi a4 b7 avant whith a very faded and nasty 4 spoke steering wheel. Im looking to retrofit a newer cleaner one. Im just wondering what my options are. I have seen people install roundbottom steering wheels from TTRS and RS4s. But they are very pricey. I like the steering wheels in audi a6 c7s. Im wondering if there is anyone out there who could walk me through what kind of wheels would be compatible with my a4. I'm looking to get something from a scrap yard, potentially. Any help greatly appreciated. Hugh

Sorry, the wheels were Original Audi Rotors with the correct offset for the car,no buckles or previous repairs. Tyre size was 255/35/20 all round,as recommended in the handbook. It may just be mileage wear and tear and bad luck.

The sourcing of low quality parts by manufacturers, and subsequent rebranding as OEM, has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum. I forget specifically who it was.

Hi magnet & steve Thanks for your responses. So the car stopped starting thursday last week. No issues before hand, i got the car lifted to the garage that weekend. The did an inspection and a diagnostic and found the starter wasnt engaging and the brushes had worn out. On the diagnostic report it had the code B200047 show up. They changed the starter over and it starts up fine. However the fault code is still showing and the steering has become heavy. They recommend the module change. I haven't had the car since its been in the garage. But before that it was regularly used and i had no noticable steering issues. I agree i don't want to throw good money at it if it can be resolved by a software update. Or sending the module for repair and putting it back on the car. The garage say its just the module thats the issue. I can share the diagnostic report if that will help. Really do appreciate the replys and suggestions.

Hi Optimus My car was delivered in late Nov 2019, but seems to be classed as an MY2020 model - I think? It has the Tour Pack which I use nearly all the time. Makes for a very relaxing driving experience as you will know. I’m surprised if they have made the FBSW mutually exclusive with the Tour Pack. Can’t seen any reason for this.

Hi Thank you for your reply. I have this car from June 2024, I cannot find any information on my papers about extended warranty. I have no idea how to find it. Just sent to the Audi Center a message referring to extended warranty bulletin I hope they will change it for free. The appointment is on 5th of August at Audi Center on Harold Wood London. Any suggestions, any help you can give will be highly appreciated. Thank you

Any update?

Hello Sergiu, You seem to have joined, posted on the same day, and not returned since. Please let us know If you don’t require any help, or provide the information asked for if you expect us to help you. Regards, Gareth.

Any answers Jon?

Is it worth having the battery checked, as a failing battery can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. Could the steering be a failed sensor?

I don’t want to highjack Steve’s responses, but it would be useful to know how long the car was out of regular use getting the starting issue sorted, and how much regular use has it had since you have had it back - ? If it were mine, I wouldn’t be throwing any money at it at this stage, but I would take it on a good (minimum 20 mile) run and end up an Halfords store and ask them to measure the battery’s efficiency ( as Steve points out), and also the alternator output. If the battery is substandard, then I wouldn’t be buying a battery there if you have any respect for your wallet. Just come back to us at that stage and we can advise further. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve Thank you for your message. The starting issue is sorted after replacing the starter motor. Its just throwing fault code B200047 out and the steering has become heavy. The garage say its the module needs replacing. But i had no steering issues or lights on the dash before it stopped starting.

If the car is still under warranty it's probably worth having it in at Audi for a diagnostic check.

Is the starting issue sorted now? Is it worth having the battery checked, as a failing battery can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. Could the steering be a failed sensor?

Please keep us posted on how you get on. TPS are well known so hopefully the replacement works ok.

The supplier they use is TPS for what its worth. Genuine parts supplier for VW/Audi

Hi magnet. Thanks for you're reply. Intially the car would crank but not turn over. The cranking became a slower more of a lethargic crank. They have fitted a new starter motor now and the car does start and turn over. Its just the module issue i have to try and solve. I do have the diagnostic report with the code and description.

What Model year - I’ve been having a nightmare looking through used S6 savants trying to find full options and they all have FBSW but say ‘adaptive cruise control’ which i keep thinking they have it wrong. Assuming the newer models now have it with?

David. Zooming your pictures shows the meter to be set to the 0-20 amp scale, so the readings refer to amps not milliamps. That information confirms there is a significant power drain and explains the battery going flat overnight. Previous similar problems on this forum show that pulling fuses has not helped in diagnosing the fault, so I suggest you get the car to an electrician who will be able to test individual circuits. Before doing that please confirm you have not fitted any auxilliary equipment such as a dash cam or sat nav etc. that is connected to a permanent live supply, i.e. a supply that is not switched off by the ignition key.

Are you talking about two different models here? The 50TDI is not the same as the 40TDI there has always been a software patch for the 50TDI in fact it was known to be worse until this patch for the auto boxes. The 40TDI is a manual dual clutch with automatic selector. This issue is still very much prevalent and has been no ECU/Drivetrain software updates specifically for hesitation on pull away (least I’m aware of?).

Cassy. If you want meaningful opinions you need to be much more specific in telling us what parts of the car were damaged and repaired. All you have mentioned so far is the vague "I had a panal beater paint the bumper and fix some damage". As for the water in the boot, that could be window wash water from the wiper motor as Richard pointed out. It was a common problem in that model, and therefore possibly unrelated to the body repairs. Test the rear wash function to be certain.