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Yea that's correct Steve the lad took the plugs off this lot too put on his new set he got as thay where different so I'll be taking mine off the front seats and just swop them over

Service history is key. Ideally it should be full service history. Check for proof of cambelt and water pump changes as well as s-tronic gearbox oil changes and oil changes for the quattro system if applicable. Check YouTube for buyers guides. Make sure all electronic items work as some of these such as AC components etc can be expensive to change.

For this to be plug and play the numbers AND letters have to match. Otherwise you'll need it to be coded.

What a bargain! Be careful regarding air bag wiring though as connectors can vary. As such, if conne tors are different the easiest option is to change the airbags abs wiring from your current seats to the new ones believe it or not.

Have they got invoices backing up the stamps in the book? Admittedly this may not help much though as it'll be in Japanese. Due to the strict MOT rules in Japan, I will suspect it's had everything done. As I believe everything has to work on a car in Japan for it to pass an mot. Make sure the seller is changing the language to English on all car systems. As this can be an issue otherwise. I see your in Ely, if that's London I'd highly recommend you get the supplying dealer get you a certificate of conformity from VAG as this will help prove the cars emissions regarding ULEZ.

I’ve got a 2008 Audi A4 convertible, the COMFORT CONTROL MODULE ECU was broken , I’ve found a new one but just waiting on delivery same numbers etc , my question is … is this a plug and play or do I have to reprogram it to my car 1st

Timing not quite set or out by a tooth.

Glad it's all fixed 🙂 nothing good comes cheap as they say.

Hi Verojie3 and Jag1029. This problem has recently happened to my Audi b9 2018. Did you manage to find a fix? Took mine to the Cardiff Audi dealer and £500 later they could not diagnose the cause. They wanted £1500 to replace the front console with no guarantees that was the issue. Won’t be using them again in a hurry.

im glad you got sorted,best of luck with it for the future.greg

Hi my 2017 Q3 as screen backlights have gone and it’s now black, I read that the wiring can snap due to the constant twisting of the screen. As anyone got any idea which wire from the back of the multimedia unit controls the power so I can check it with my multimeter. thanks

Hi sorry Cliff I stand corrected.

Hi the one with only one connection is for the low pressure EGR, the sensor with two pipes is the DPF sensor they are both the same part number but the EGR sensor on the low pressure side uses barometric pressure from the open side to make its calculations, replacing both is not a bad shout but they will both need adapting, I would still be interested in your soot/ash loadings. Steve.

2 amps when switched off? Perhaps you mean 2 milliamps?

Hi the multi plug for the head unit always has a supply normally about 2amps this maintains the memory functions within the unit otherwise when you power it up the settings need to be altered. Steve.

Tony. How large is this drain from the battery? A few dozen miiliamps is normal for the alarm system. If it is significantly larger look for non-standard pieces of electrical equipment such as satnavs, radios, dashcams etc. and ensure they have been connected to an ignition switched power supply. It is too easy to connect such devices to a permanently live supply.

Hello! First of all I'm terribly sorry if this topic has been talked about, I just want the most up to date infos. I'm in need of a reliable daily that doesn't eat my wallet but looks nice. I'm kinda fallen for the 2.0 TDI A4 B9, 190HP one in particular. I see a few for amazing price, (my budget is about 15.000 euros). Now I would like to know should I be scared of the cars that have 170-190k mi? What should I look for when looking at any B9 with this engine? How good is the S Tronic, and should I look for a manual or S tronic? How easy is the DIY maintenance on these? Turbo and Injector life? Quattro or not, doesn't really matter to me. Any extra advice and stuff I should look for or something that costs a lot to replace would be very nice to know, so feel free to post anything that touches this topic, and maybe some topics I missed. 🙂 Greatly appreciate all inputs!

Watching with interest, thanks for posting. im about ti replace front dampers, top mounts and anti roll bar links on my A3. the top mounts are getting a bit creaky. Dampers look to be originals and with the car past 100k miles replacing them can’t do any harm I suppose.

I should also say that I have seen the service books with stamps. I will view the car next week. I just want to do my research before making that journey.

Sorry I should have posted that. 87,000 miles. I have the VIN so I am wondering Audi can look and see. I would like to think if the Audi dealership serviced this vehicle and replaced items at their appropriate service times they would have also done the gearbox oil and service at its service time.

Hello Joe, Welcome and thanks for joining. It’s difficult to answer your question without knowledge of the mileage this 9 year old car has covered - we take it you know that. As I see it:- unless this car has covered a galaxial mileage, then I don’t see an issue. After all, the seller (direct importer?) has promised to carry out your gearbox oil change and offer a guarantee, so…? My ‘concerns’ would be:- have you already had sight of the service history, have you actually viewed the car, is the seller going to give you a receipt for the work they intend to do pre-purchase, and do they have the facility to input that data ( via. the VIN) onto the VAG on-line service history system? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, To my logic, the suffix A denotes an earlier version of your later B, so possibly from a pre 2009. Significance?? If it remanufactured as opposed to just ‘secondhand’, then the remanufacturer will/ should have the experience to answer any questions about specific differences. Have you asked, and have you had a reply? Kind regards, Gareth.

You will never have such bad trans fluid when u NEVER do launch when u never drive like maniac .. In the past people were owning cars and NEVER EVER thought that they gonna replace trnas. fluid.. ONLY engine oil... Nowadays people doing all sht on internet just to make money from views so they will replace all possible nonsense on car.. When people suddenly shoot off from stop and step on it.. The trans gears making massive friction where micro chips happening from metals.. Nothing is undestroyable in the world.. If you never do all these car abuses your trans fluid will be STILL gold after 5 years or even 10 years of driving car...

Hi, there peeps, I have an A3 1.9Tdi 3-door hatchback from March 2009 making it a 8P1. > As the title states I have had this drain for some time now and have been unable to find the source despite the usual testing methods, i.e. digital meter on the mA range with the leads in the correct orientation, any way to cut a long story, I took out all the under dashboard cover's, steering column, glovebox etc. in a search for an obvious short etc. At this time I was disconnecting the positive lead from the battery and I manually locked the car. At the same time as this was happening, I purchased a new Junsun multi-media entertainment system ( I was awaiting arrival from China) to replace my Audi Chorus which I took out, it then started raining due to various other circumstances including the weather I was not able to get back to the car. Finally, I then started looking for any signs of a fault using my HEX-V2 dongle, there were several fault codes but NONE that related to what I was experiencing. I don't know what made me do it but I checked the multiplug for the Audi Chorus (the radio is in the house) for any signs of a supply and I found it in the multiplug, at this stage, there was no key in the ignition and both doors were shut, while sat in the car I pressed the remote to lock the car and waited and waited and I still had a supply from the multiplug. So after a bit of research etc. I found the fuses are located in the engine bay # 8 and 9 I proved this by removing them and checking the multiplug supply it has now gone, so reinstated said fuses now back to square one. First thing if I go out to the car in the morning take off the positive lead and then tap the positive battery post I get a very small spark which tells me something is energized but take out the fuse and there is no spark, I forgot to mention the door and the bonnet catch have been put into the lock position and I have to wait about an hour to start this procedure (sorry cart before the horse). What is really puzzling me is why is the multiplug still live even when the car has gone to sleep etc.

I haven't the faintest idea. It is for the supplier to guarantee that the goods it supplies are correct for your car.