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Steering dead spots


Dr Geoff
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I have an Audi Avant 2.0TDI 2014 model, 100k miles.  It has been stationary for a while due to lockdown but went to shop last weekend 2miles away.  No problem.

Left the carpark with shopping but found that the steering has a heavy dead spot every half turn of the steering wheel.  Very strange to occur so suddenly.  Tyre pressures Ok, no obvious damage. all fuses OK, recharged battery as well.  No dashboard warnings.  Local garage suspects dodgy UJ on the column and says new column required + audi recalibration.  Megabucks!

Anyone seen this before? and any ideas would be most welcome.  Most weird part is the difference before and after shopping!  Must be a virus...  Any thoughts very welcome.

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If the car hasn't moved in a while and then done a short drive abd has electronic power steering could the battery just not be up to full charge? When I worked in the motor trade if certain card has been flat batteries or very low charge then it would affect the electronic power steering. Make it heavier etc. Took a Fiat 500l for a run once which had been flat and the steering wheel kept trying to yank itself out of my hands because the car couldn't cope with so many electronic systems no running at once. 

Might be worth doing a diagnostic check to see what codes flag up. 

Cheers

Steve

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Hello Geoff,

On the basis of simple things first:- As Steve says - suspect the battery. Possibly now getting passed its best if stop/start function enabled. 

In normal circumstances, I would advise a good 20 mile run, switch off and retest. Now - leave the engine tick over for 20 mins., switch off and retry. 

If you have an ‘intelligent’ (in caps) charger suitable for charging AGM and stop start technology, then charge the battery for at least 12 hours, or as charger programme dictates. Test again to see if symptoms have disappeared.

Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

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Thanks Gareth & Steve

I have a digital charger and charged the battery overnight immediately after this problem occurred.  The battery seems OK, all of the stages of charge went OK and voltage OK afterwards.  But you remind me that after charging the problem did seem less severe (As Steve says, prior to the recharge the effort required to turn was serious with no self centring so lethal - better afterwards). Might still be an issue here especially because it fits the lay up story and the apparent off/on incidence.   I will take it for a good run today to check again.  I will also get the car on ramps and see what I can see around the column UJ under the floor.  Feels like a UJ 'over centre' effect if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your comments, will let you know. 

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Hello Geoff,

Thanks for coming back on this. If charging the battery has had an influence on the severity of the problem, then it may indeed point to a failing battery issue. It will be interesting to know how it is after a good 20 mile run. 

The fact that the battery accepts a charge may not be the full story in effect of its serviceability. For example, if (in caps) the vehicle is equipped with a battery monitoring system, that system might be detecting below par battery characteristics and will start to influence certain systems. My non- Audi experience of this showed that although the battery passed the old conventional ‘drop test’, the battery was borderline unserviceable in terms of its monitored cold cranking efficiency - as detected, only on sophisticated diagnostics. 

Steering column UJ issue? Personally I doubt it, but....

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

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Regrettably, the battery doesnt seem to be the problem.

I have a spare battery, fairly new, that I have charged up.  Able to crank my old Morris Minor with ease so should be in reasonable shape.  Using jump leads I connected in parallel with the battery in the boot and ran it for a short distance.  No change to steering effort.

I agree about the UJ's.  I got it up on ramps yesterday and took to cover off.  All mechanicals visually fine.  Nothing loose or dirty, corroded etc.

Just another piece of the jigsaw; I had the alternator replaced due to bearing failure last month.  I checked voltage with engine running @ approx 13.5 to 13.8V depending on rpm.  I was expecting it to be over 14v.  Battery volts were 12.5v.  Do you know what the charging volts should be?  Mind you, if battery eliminated, this would not be relevant.

I have booked car to go to a local independent specialist for a diagnostic check on Monday.  Will report back.

Thanks again, Geoff

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Hello Geoff,

’Had alternator replaced’ ... Reputable make/source? 

Opinions:- 13.8v is below par. As you say, it should be towards the mid 14s.

                  Connecting an ‘ordinary’ 038 Morry Thou. battery into the system? In my view this a toffy hammer battery in terms of its cold cranking and Ah capacity compared with the requirements of a 2 litre diesel battery. Would I have done this? No, since the car is likely to be fitted with an ‘intelligent’ charging system and an ordinary non AGM battery might well result in alternator problems. 

Personally, I’m still not discounting a battery/charging influence on your symptoms, but of course, it will be interesting to see what the independents come up with.

Perhaps you could let us know Geoff.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

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So I got the problem fixed by the independent guy for 55 quid!

He removed the short steering column shaft with the two UJ's and confirmed that the top UJ was stiff in one axis.  He was able to 90% free this up by exercising it and there is now no reaction at the steering wheel.  If it deteriorates again, a new shaft is £200 + fitting.  We have no idea why it appeared to fail so suddenly.  Perhaps the stiffness has to pass a threshold value at which it will be felt at the wheel.

Everything electrical was confirmed OK after all.

This was a weird one so thanks for your input - always good to get more than one brain on the subject.  I hope this thread helps the next person with this problem.

Geoff

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