Hi Everyone.

 

I’m new to this forum.  So looking forward ton some advice.  I have Audi A6 2.00 Ltr tdi 2011. 
im have problems shifting into gears and changing gears. I really have to force it into gear when changing gears. Friend of mine told me it needs new clutch.

 

It needs a proper diagnosis for a garage. 

It might be the hydraulics that operate the clutch. At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch start to bite or grip? It should be about half way. If it bites close to the floor you have a problem with either the master or slave cylinder.

I would be inclined to say it sounds like a  hydraulic problem, are you losing brake fluid, does changing gear get easier after driving for 10 minutes. If car left for a few days does it get harder to change then usual. 

Hi Guys .

 

Thank you for your feedback.  When I start the car from cold it's hard to engage into gears specially reverse gear you have to really force it.  Once started and driving it's little easer to engage into gears .

 

 

9 hours ago, Sid2020 said:

I would be inclined to say it sounds like a  hydraulic problem, are you losing brake fluid, does changing gear get easier after driving for 10 minutes. If car left for a few days does it get harder to change then usual. 

It's hard to change gear when you first start the car specially trying to get it into reverse gear, but gets little easier when driving.  And brake are working fine. I don't think I'm losing any brake fluid.

 

20 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

It might be the hydraulics that operate the clutch. At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch start to bite or grip? It should be about half way. If it bites close to the floor you have a problem with either the master or slave cylinder.

Yes you have Push the clutch paddle to floor, so clutch engages .

Sounds like what I had, I changed my master cyclinder and gave it several bleeds using Comma Dot 4esp brake fluid, I used a pressure bleeder as a lot easier. Don’t use standard Dot 4 brake fluid, a mistake I made first time round 

I suggest you renew both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. It may be that only one is defective at the moment, but at 13 years old the other will soon follow it into retirement.

Is the slave not in the box on the c7 so massive job, I’d try master and bleed  first as simple to change and if that doesn’t fix then box off and slave and clutch while in there 

2 hours ago, Sid2020 said:

Is the slave not in the box on the c7 so massive job,

You may well be right for all I know. My point was more that if the master cylinder seals are perished then the slave cylinder seals will also be in poor condition and liable to let go in the near future, so it makes sense to my mind to do both at the same time. I have always believed that if you do a job properly, you only do it once; whereas if you do a job poorly it will have to be done again.

Anyway that's a decision for Mohame to make. We have presented him with two options to choose from, both equally valid for different reasons.

Well Mohame, was the advice you asked for of any use?