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Immobilizer 1994 Cabriolet


flyingpete212
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I recently bought a 1994 Cabriolet which has been running ok until I changed a non working central locking pump. Now it refuses to start and  the immobilizer lights have started to work for the first time since I bought it.

On speaking to previous owner he lost the main keys and had to get a auto electrician to by pass the immobilizer and supply a non chipped key.

Looks like the replacement c/l pump has resurrected the system? 

My question does anyone know how to disconnect or bypass the immobilizer?

Any help would be appreciated as car been stood now for 2 months and would be a shame to scrap it.

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I would imagine the central locking pump would be linked in some way yes.

Sounds silly, but have you thought about just splashing out and getting a proper chipped key from Audi, just to save any hassle.

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Hi again, I have never worked with immobilizers before so enlisted it to a local VW-Audi garage they had it a month and could not sort it out (think they gave up after first day claimed easier & quicker fitting brake shoes than sorting mine) a auto electrician has now got it (3 weeks) he struggling as well? Asked about the key reckons we cant get the code for it?? Now on about sending ECU to have immobilizer chip removed. 

Tried on eBay to acquire ECU, Key lock and barrel, and Immobilizer box. Got a reply this morning they did not have a immobilizer fitted??? Help!!!!

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Oh dear sounds like you are a bit stuck :sad:

I would say a good Auto electrician is still the best place for it to be if you don't want to pay Audi prices. May be worth asking Audi about the key anyway?

Surely you must have an immobiliser if the light is coming on...

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I agree must have one fitted.

Its a 20+ yr old car if we new what the problem was I would have a idea what its gonna cost.

But as its a unknown problem how long will it take to remedy at £35 ph. cost me £400 in auto electricians up to press and still not sorted.  

Do I give up on it and buy another or persevere?? That is the question.

Dilemma.

 

Cheers Pete

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I agree must have one fitted.

Its a 20+ yr old car if we new what the problem was I would have a idea what its gonna cost.

But as its a unknown problem how long will it take to remedy at £35 ph. cost me £400 in auto electricians up to press and still not sorted.  

Do I give up on it and buy another or persevere?? That is the question.

Dilemma.

 

Cheers Pete

Hi again, we have sent the ECU off to have the immobiliser chip removed to see if that gets round the problem, no guarantees!

I spoke to a local Audi mechanic he did not think the central locking pump was anything to do with the immobilizer having changed them in the past without any issues? He then telephoned a auto electrician friend who he thought would have more knowledge. The friend did say on the 1994 model they did incorporate the central locking with the immobilizer so that would explain the problem.

Based on if that info is correct, when the keys where lost the original electrician probably undertook the bypass within the pump and all was OK. However when I have fitted the new pump it would not have the by pass fitted and looks like its re set the car, and now wanting the chipped keys to start it???

 

Will see how we go later this week (fingers crossed)

 

Best wishes Peter

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  • 3 months later...
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  • 3 years later...

Hi There,

I have a 1998 2.6 Cab with the ABC engine & Auto box. It's intermittently starting. One moment ok the next no warning lights and the engine turns over but not starting.

Green Flag guy said it might be the immobiliser which is located in the ignition barrel. He was unable to do any diagnostics as he didn't have the right connection for my old car!

Is this a known issue and Is there an easy way to reset the ECU (connection in fuse box I think).?????

 

Any ideas?

 

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29 minutes ago, MRW said:

Hi There,

I have a 1998 2.6 Cab with the ABC engine & Auto box. It's intermittently starting. One moment ok the next no warning lights and the engine turns over but not starting.

Green Flag guy said it might be the immobiliser which is located in the ignition barrel. He was unable to do any diagnostics as he didn't have the right connection for my old car!

Is this a known issue and Is there an easy way to reset the ECU (connection in fuse box I think).?????

 

Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum Mark, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Have you tried the simple solution?

Charge battery, reconnect, lock the car with the key then unlock it (or lock then unlock until you hear the horn 'beep' once when you lock), also turn off the lights if the sidelights are flashing.

Or pull fuse 19 this should switch off the alarm/immobiliser. 19, the one for the leccy windows, and see if it now starts ? 

fuse 19 is 3rd from the right at the very front . it should be 15 amp. make sure you count any spaces where there should be a fuse. This will only work as long as it's a standard immobiliser abd not an aftermarket one. 

Also it might be similar and therefore usefull but in the 16v coupe there was a connection on the passenger side inner wing where the exciter cable going to the starter had a join. Situated literally on the inner wing, visible by just opening the bonnet. You could bump 12v in here to get the starter spinning over.

if it is the immobiliser, removing 19 removes power to the pump for the cl, which is also the immobiliser. its only a relay that joins 2 wires so is really easy to remove. This should work to reset ECU:

to reset the cars ECM/ECU.
Turn your key to the accessory position (ACC).
Disconnect the battery POSITIVE terminal.
Wait about 1 minute,
Tap the positive terminal 3 times and then reconnect to the terminal.
The ECU/ECM is now reset.

In failing that you could try to find the alarm siren which if like other 80 models should have a key switch on it to turn off the alarm and imobbiliser, turn off, reconnect the battery then turn back on and it will reset, alarm siren is under the bonnet, it is located to the right side under the expansion tank. 

Hope I've helped. 

cheers

Steve

 

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Hi Steve,

Thank you for that wonderful welcome!

I've tried the battery thing with no joy. I can see the inner wing connection, it looks good.

When i turn it over, around 1 in 20 times all the right lights, light up and it starts on the button, lights go out, all good.

The non starting times the gear select indicator comes on but none of the other lights. The engine turns over but never catches.....

It's been doing it since i got her in February. Battery is good.

It's really annoying as one moment all good the next second nothing

Ideas welcome.

BTW Water temp gauge failed a week back, fans fires up ok, so guess it might be the G63 sensor...any idea on the source for these?

Cheers

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 sensor sensor

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1 hour ago, MRW said:

Hi Steve,

Thank you for that wonderful welcome!

I've tried the battery thing with no joy. I can see the inner wing connection, it looks good.

When i turn it over, around 1 in 20 times all the right lights, light up and it starts on the button, lights go out, all good.

The non starting times the gear select indicator comes on but none of the other lights. The engine turns over but never catches.....

It's been doing it since i got her in February. Battery is good.

It's really annoying as one moment all good the next second nothing

Ideas welcome.

BTW Water temp gauge failed a week back, fans fires up ok, so guess it might be the G63 sensor...any idea on the source for these?

Cheers

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 sensor sensor

You're welcome 🙂

you might have to get the ECU reset. I know other owners have had to do it. Alternatively speak to an auto electrician to see if there could be something else amiss. 

You have 2 coolant temperature sensors in your vehicle. One sends its signal to the ECU for proper fuel trim. The other one (which is what you need) sends its reading to 2 places. One place is your gauge, the other place is your radiator fan.

Replace it quickly, since failure of one function typically signifies the impending failure of the other.

It is part # W0133-1619933

Any number of suppliers have it. Should be around £30-£40 if memory serves correctly.

It's hard to see, but your looking for a big brass nut. It's about an inch in diameter, and it's actually a plug that screws into a black pipe coming off the back of your engine.

The actual sensor is held in place by that nut and is all one piece. The sensor you need sticks into that pipe and monitors the water temp. 

cheers

Steve

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IMG_1136.thumb.JPG.a9572058273a87d58a92cf2de8e99f56.JPGHi  Steve, is this the one?

 

G63 i think 

Cheers

 

Mark

43 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

You're welcome 🙂

you might have to get the ECU reset. I know other owners have had to do it. Alternatively speak to an auto electrician to see if there could be something else amiss. 

You have 2 coolant temperature sensors in your vehicle. One sends its signal to the ECU for proper fuel trim. The other one (which is what you need) sends its reading to 2 places. One place is your gauge, the other place is your radiator fan.

Replace it quickly, since failure of one function typically signifies the impending failure of the other.

It is part # W0133-1619933

Any number of suppliers have it. Should be around £30-£40 if memory serves correctly.

It's hard to see, but your looking for a big brass nut. It's about an inch in diameter, and it's actually a plug that screws into a black pipe coming off the back of your engine.

The actual sensor is held in place by that nut and is all one piece. The sensor you need sticks into that pipe and monitors the water temp. 

cheers

Steve

Hi Steve,

Many thanks again

Is this the one?

Cheers

Mark

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55 minutes ago, MRW said:

IMG_1136.thumb.JPG.a9572058273a87d58a92cf2de8e99f56.JPGHi  Steve, is this the one?

 

G63 i think 

Cheers

 

Mark

Hi Steve,

Many thanks again

Is this the one?

Cheers

Mark

You're welcome 🙂 yes I believe so, I e never changed one personally though. 

Cheers

Steve

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