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Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again. Steve.

Forgive me butting in Chris but you seem to be turning a blind eye to Magnet's strong hints about the state of your engine, so let me be more forthright. Running the engine for a year without adequate lubrication has spoiled the piston ring sealing in the cylinders as your compression figures clearly demonstrate. (Incidently that's likely to mean the big end and main bearings are also clapped out.) No amount of new oil pumps are going to restore the rings and bores, so there will be exhaust blow past leading to smoke, high emissions, blocked exhaust and MOT failure. I fear you have left it to late to save that engine.

It l looks like you are searching Autodoc/ECP. If it were mine I would discount everything except Febi. Check out Parts in Motion for great service at competitive prices. Well worth checking their EBay listings for the correct part- often a little cheaper than buying the same part off their website. Let us know what you come up with Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris. The horse has already bolted, but…

But you have already changed the oil filter without improvement. Function is the operative word!

Just buy a new level sensor James.

What’s the engine code? My understanding is these exhaust temp sensors are utter pain. Access may be difficult, plus they are usually difficult to remove and sometimes need drilled out. Not sure what OBD scanner you’re using, but you need to get access to VCDS or Autel to check, then you can run live data. it might even be exhaust pressure sender. Check against your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/646/2/253/253062

Hi, yes I removed all spark plugs whilst testing each cylinder.

Hello James, Warning for low coolant level rather than coolant temperature?? If so, what you have found is most likely the culprit, but that is a coolant level sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Spartacus that’s exactly what I thought have bought some springs and covers of a well known auction site so let’s hope they fit, thanks for the help

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