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So as I thought no screws in the slide out panels or under the triangle, just a load of push in clips that need a bit of gentle persuasion. I used a trim tool bought in readiness, Wetado 8 piece £9 on Amazon, to get the right hand side off first then just gently work all the clips out. The light and boot switch have a small push down clip to disconnect the wiring plug. The adapter for the wiper washer, picture attached is blocked

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 It's definitely not an old man car. Regarding forums you'll find most of them will show the horror stories, as people don't come onto them when everything is working and good.

Info credited to Harry Joynes: Hey everyone. Just thought I’d share my hunt for slightly pulsing brakes at low speed and a vibration in the seat at 50mph plus. After much searching the internet it lead me to a wheel bearing however I was thinking warped rear discs. I changed the fronts that stopped the steering wheel shake when braking I thought today I’d just take the wheels and docs off to see if there was anything noticeable and there it was. The hubs between the discs were corroded and pushing the whole lot ever so slightly off straight. Cleans all faces up and now it drives like a dream. Just a free thing to do if anyone is experiencing similar issues. Little before and after pic.

Take it back. Transmission issues rarely resolve themselves. Assuming this is 7-speed S tronic. It needs serviced every 38k miles. If gearbox was serviced, I’d want written notification of that. It could be a firmware issue of course, so would need need a scan to check what’s what, but first thing the dealer is likely to do is drop the oil, new filter, etc. If there any contamination in the gearbox, then that’s on them.

I routed my hardwire kit on the wrong side of the air bag so need to go back in the nearside A pillar and move it very soon. When I do I'll take a video of the route and the fuse box. It's pretty easy with a hardwire kit and straight to the fuse box and overall might be less fuss than trying to get power from the mirror set up.

The car is now sold

Please keep us updated on how you get on

I'm near Leicester. I used AC motors on wanlip road in Syston. They're very good. You also have vee dub in Queniborough but I've never used them. Chapmans independent audi specialist in Wigston but again not used them.

Hello everyone, I thought I’ll share something here with people that might experience same problem as I did. Recently I’ve got a message on my MMI saying I have to enter my user login details again for some reason and I was not been able to do that. Every time I was putting in my email address and password, a message would come, saying: You could not be logged in at this moment, try again later. Or something like that. I’ve tried everything, log out from My Audi app, log back in, clear catch on my storage for Audi app, delete the Audi app, add new user, remove user key, literally everything I thought would help. Nothing worked, and I was driving my car under guest user for a while until today when I had enough of it and sat down again and started from the beginning, determined to crack this issue and I succeeded. What I did was: 1. Delete the app on the IPhone. 2. Reinstall the app back on the phone. 3. Reset the password via forgot my password after you type in your username. 4.. Remove the vehicle on My Audi app and add the vehicle back in, remember you need the vehicle identification code to do this. follow the steps from the app to add your car. 5.Factory reset your MMI or reboot to normal mode, you know, two fingers on RH on top of the screen. 6. When reset has been successful, log in with select user, or add new user, login in using your username and the password which you have reset earlier. This is what I did and it helped me to login and my Audi app is working normal too. I hope this will help other people with the same issue I had. all the best

Thanks Tavi - this worked for me.

Unfortunately there is no simple solution to changing from one radio brand to another. Functions are different, plugs/sockets are different, wire colours are different, so there is always some wire cutting to do. To make matters worse, some Ebay sellers are not very helpful in supplying the right conversion wiring.

Hello Stephen, Yes, best to avoid Halfords if you have respect for your wallet - also main dealers. Of possible help:- I now avoid Varta/Bosch due to recent dissatisfactions. I currently favour Exide ( their Premium grade for those without stop/start. Have a look at Tayna Batteries website and tap in your registration number, and that should point you to the correct battery - beware, Tayna will likely to point you towards their own brand ( sorry cannot recall the brand name at the moment) but I would simply stick with Exide. Also have a look at Parts in Motion website - they now do Exide. For both these companies, look on EBay before committing since they are generally listed as free shipping on there. Double check your current battery spec. for Ah and CCA figures and ensure the recommended replacement meets/exceeds these figure. Also check dimensions, but do not ( in caps)use a metal tape for fear of touching terminals! New battery will need coding. Regards, Gareth.

just rang audi....just for the battery alone its £390 "gulp" he could not get through to fitting.....but he did say it needs coding.....so thank you richard

thanks richard.a bit tight with money at the mo. i will call audi,as i dont know anyone with vcds.thanks stephen.

Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

Another member's recent experience with a Japanese import suggests you get all the paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted out by the dealer, to avoid endless confrontations with our bureaucracy yourself.

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Tony. If the water pump was not replaced at the same time as the belt as it should have been, that could be the source of the noise. As Steve said, get the car to a garage ASAP, because a belt failure is usually sudden and the consequent engine damage can be catastrophic. Opinions on belt duration, even from Audi, have changed over the years. I would stick with the older 70000 miles recommendation for peace of mind. It's an expensive job at £700 but a lot cheaper than a new engine.

Warped brake discs are a bit of an anomaly. That’s not to say it can’t happen. In my experience, it’s sometimes not the brakes at all, but potentially worn wheel bearing, suspension component such as deteriorating suspension bush or a sticky brake piston. Older cars, then you get into top mounts, etc. You can also get brake pad transfer. The brake discs may have heat spots or dark areas on an otherwise clean brake disc. That’s a sure sign of excessive heat, possibly the brake caliper sticking. Sometimes seized brake sliders, or corrosion on the dust sleeve on the caliper itself. One way to rule out sticky piston(s), is to run car then coast to a stop. Brake discs may be warm, but defiantly not hot. Check for lip on brake disc, scoring on the brake disc or different disc material widths remaining, easy to spot on ventilated brake discs.

When steel rusts it expands, thereby pushing adjacent parts away from each other. That's why rusty bolts are a swine to remove and brake discs are pushed out of alignment.

No probs at all Gareth, just thought it was worth a share 🙂

Thanks Steve, This is really straight from the book of best practice, and should always be done as a matter of course. DIYer have no excuse for not doing this - apart from ignorance, so certainly worth a mention. Garages not doing it, because it takes a little longer?? Anyway, thanks Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.