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Hi all, I've recently purchased a 2010 a6 Avant lemans 2l TDI 170hp so I thought I would join the owners club. Its the first car I've owned but I'm a mechanic on the side so I do most of my own maintenance. Already done 3000 miles in 2 months with plenty more on the way plus a European road trip later this summer. 45mpg average as i do mostly motorway runs + manual gearbox. Parts aren't too bad so far but the size takes getting used to with only rear sensors that are intermittent at best! Have a good one, Dan

The LT current flows from the contact breakers to the coil where it is transformed to HT. That HT current goes from the coil to the centre of the rotor arm in the distributor and thence to the spark plugs.

2 litres of oil in 1100 miles is truly extraordinary, and indicates significant wear of the pistons and/or bores. This is confirmed by your new revelation of excessive crankcase pressure, which is likely the cause of the oil loss. A crankcase gasket will not solve this problem. It's just possible that a new crankcase pressure control valve will help, but it's more likely that the engine has reached the end of its life. That will cost many thousands of pounds to sort out so it makes sense to get a firm diagnosis before making a decision on what to do. I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than travelling to an Audi dealer. Here are two I found on an internet search. There are bound to be others. https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/ https://www.hrmotors.co.uk/

Thanks for replies , going back to garage today , think it's just the way the drive shaft was reassembled after changing the cv joint . It's only happening on initial movement back and forward . No sound actually going into gear .

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Hi Skiduk I’ve got the same A6 model, had it 3 years now and still love it , Ive used Derby Audi for servicing which has been under Audis All in service plan. My front brakes pad are down to 70% wear and Audi have just quoted me £1050 just for front discs and pads, I’m going to do them myself and have managed to get the parts for £350 . Rear spring mount rubber’s corroding was an mot advisory when the car was 4 years old, Audi quited me £320 each side for replacing them but did them myself rubber mount were £50 , Tyres Continental x4 £860 . My A6 has had 2 faults in the it’s 5 years which were both rear door locks playing up and they were replaced and a brake servo restriction fault ! That was a little pressure switch near the servo that monitors vacuum, both fault were repaired under the all in warranty . I don’t think it’s been bad at all personally Hope this helps mate

What Clifford said.

Looks like you've lost a wheel, somewhere on your drive! 😁

update, thanks for the comments, made me go back & start again, it was a faulty plug in nearside quarter panel that was reading live at socket but not in the plug, breaking the circuit. thank you again.

UPDATE : took the car back to garage , they took everything apart and retightened all the bolts on the inner cv joint and also the cv hub nut , Absolutely no movement on inner joint . Unfortunately the noise still there , on the plus side it's definitely coming from the wheel area not the gearbox , it's there when put the car into drive or reverse and accelerate hard . So at least he was able repeat the sound . He reckons it must be a faulty part out of box , he reckons theres movement on the spline when accelerating, he has ordered a new part and will fit next week when it comes under warranty , he says it's perfectly safe to drive until then . Hoping the new part will solve the problem , he's says that's all it can be as that's all that was changed on the car . It's an SFK cv joint not sure how good they are but he says they are very good parts .

You went from Yorkshire to Wiltshire for the battery?

I don't understand why you would need new pistons unless yours in one of a small number of cars fitted with badly designed piston rings for a couple of years. That was well known problem which Audi reluctantly resolved by fitting new pistons under guarantee for many owners. (I doubt this a problem of simple wear at 98000 miles.) If yours is one of the affected cars then it will be consuming oil at an extraordinary rate, so please tell us what your oil consumption is.

Well I'm sorted with the fueling injectors singing nicely but no spark 🙄 so back to fault finding, I hate electrics 🤣

This is sorted now I pulled relay 208 pulled the injectors bridged the relay and lifted the flap on the metering head. Eventually got a good delivery of fuel from each injector. But no spark back to it.

update.... garage managed to squeeze me in was worth the wait....it was the offside rear speed sensor,but he had to remove the wheel hub to get to the sensor.(circled in the picture)....it was seized so knocked out what he could then used the air gun with a grinder on the end to get the rest out.let that be a warning to anyone.(garage job).here is a picture with the wheel hub removed.no more warning signs and 2 bleeps everytime i turned the ignition on.thanks everyone for your thoughts.

Hello John, ’I got the passenger side … joint replaced’. My advice would be to take it back to whoever fitted it - don’t fiddle with it, don’t try to self diagnose it - but take it back ASAP. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

John. You have only done one CV joint so I would suspect the other side also needs to be changed. They tend to wear out at the same rate.

Have you checked your serpentine belt as may be contaminated with antifreeze which would cause slippage under load.

You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

The car is now sold

A blast of compressed air should shift any crud/water/fuel in open-ended lines. If you don't have compressed air I don't know what to suggest.

Good morning all, Waiting impatiently for my new-ishA6 to be ready for collection next week 🤞🏼

Audi are not interested in customer care and as a result I'm test driving a Volvo today. Whether I buy a Volvo or not I certainly won't touch Audi again, not that they could care. The fuel filler cover locked shut at about 2.5 years old, which was another fiasco not covered by warranty, which gave me a taster of things to come. Aside from all that I have noticed that Audi drivers seem to be getting the same stigma/reputation as BMW drivers, so time to swap to something else!

So this happened within the first year of your ownership? Which would be less than 5 yrs since the car's first registration date? I ask because you may have some redress here through use of consumer's right act (1st October 2015). Basically you've 5 yrs in Scotland and 6 yrs in England, Wales and NI, through courts to show - using an expert - that the product was faulty all along. I'll try and dig up more info. Audi as with any other manufacturer will deny any fault. You take them to court and they usually buckle before any judgement is passed, as they don't want to make a rod for their back. A gentleman I know of took Apple to court in the UK over a faulty battery on a 5yr mac book. Apple laughed and so they went to court. Said gentleman won the case. Apple now have a rod made regarding laptop batteries. Foote v Apple.

I admire your patience Sharon. I would have given up on Audis long ago if I had suffered the company's deplorable customer care.

Hi Club Members, I am new to the club having just bought my first Audi. Its a 2013 S7 with full service history including its original bill of sale from Audi in Newbury, and its finished in ice (I think I've got that right) silver with a black interior. It has a sunroof and I am chuffed with it so far. I am living in Swansea and really don't know where to have it serviced, although my preference is to maintain its main dealer service history which has been in Newbury and Reading - bit of a trip for servicing, although I would probably enjoy the journey!!. I have the same issue with a Mercedes SL which I have had since 2021, although I have decided to take that to the Mercedes specialist in Bridgend about 30 miles from me. If anyone knows and could recommend any Audi trustworthy independent specialists or main dealers, please let me know. I have attached a couple of pici's for you to see the car. I would like to get some 21"x 9J alloys for it and have been looking on e-bay for style options, but haven't seen any yet. I do quite like the Audi Rotor wheel in the grey/silver, but I also like an Audi 15 spoke 19" x 8.5J wheel (part number 8TO-071-499-1ZL in silver) which is being advertised as fitting the A5 model, however its size and offset (ET33) suggests to me that it would also fit the S7? Anyway, enough blurb from me and I'll let you know how I get on. Many thanks Chris

know fact a lot of a1 get burnt plastic on the connection in boot on the rear lights i have changed the wiring twice on a girl at work as it keeps melting the rear cluster

Hi, I have a 2009 Audi A4 1.8t SE which had it's MOT recently. It passed but the garage noted that there was a slight oil leak. When asked where they thought it was coming from they thought it was the head gasket but said I needed an Audi specialist to check it out. This I duly did and was told it was not the head gasket - it was coming from the vacuum pump. I had this part replaced but the car is still leaking oil. I took it back to have it rechecked and was told it was the crankcase gasket. I asked them for a quote but they seem reluctant to give me a price as they said my particular car was originally fitted with the wrong pistons and conrods and that they may need to be replaced too and all at a horrendous cost. This is all gobbledygook to me as I am completely lacking in any specialist car knowledge. I am also a pensioner with a small pension and if we are talking big bucks I will not be able to afford it. I also live on my own in a cottage 2 miles out of Kelso in the Scottish Borders so a car is an absolute necessity and I can't afford to buy a replacement car. The car has done 98,000 miles and drives perfectly well but I am aware there may be catastrophe ahead if I don't get this oil leak sorted. And it is an oil leak - the car is not burning oil. Can anyone offer me any advice - are there any members who have experienced the same problem with their A4? I would be very grateful for any help and thank you in advance for your time. Regards, Colin Dimes.

Was your problem ever resolved Cooper? We have found ourselves with the exact same fault with our A1 (68 reg) and the car was sold to us by Audi used dealer with a ‘makeshift earth repair’ on one side which has now burnt out again and the other side is heading in the same direction. We’ve only had the car six months and have an Audi extended warranty for another 6 months. Not sure if it can be fixed under that. But if the fault reoccurs it leaves me nervous.

Added a TTRS Mk2 2009 to my Audi collection 🤩 plenty of smiles!

So sorry to hear of your repeated shoddy Audi experience. I have just had an indicator light replaced on the boot of my 4.5 year old 18000 miles A3 Saloon. Turns out there were 7 of the electrical wires broken, which is apparently common, due to bad design and/or materials used. The cost for repair for the single light was £720 as the broken wires had shorted out the LED cluster. I too contacted Audi Customer Services to enquire if this is a common issue. The response was basically that the car is over 3 years old, so not their problem, so didn’t even answer my query and I think I know why. I’ve owned 3 Audis and 8 VW Golfs over the years and have found that the newer release they are, the more unreliable they have become. This is just the latest of several failures and for me the last straw, so suffice to say I will now be leaving the VW/Audi brand. My advice would be that if you are replacing parts, try to obtained anything but O.E.M. as there will be a better chance of them lasting. Volvo looks to be favourite for me at the moment, so it will be interesting to see how that goes. A3 REAR INDICATOR LIGHT.mp4