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Forte also make a diesel conditioner treatment. Useful if emissions are high. Used to swear by it to get an old A4 2.5TDI quattro through its MOT. Add to tank with quarter full or direct to fuel filter, which was easier when it was in engine bay, then drive it like you stole it. Diesel filters now under driver's side. Whatever you go for, just make sure it has good history and avoid cars on long service regimes every 18k miles as damage already done.

I suggest you get a proper diagnosis on a professional grade reader, before spending money at random on fixes that may or may not solve the problem. For what it's worth my guess is the DPF, but guesswork can waste an awful lot of money.

Hi the only problems that occur with adblue crystals is when its out of the container thats over two years old or its been sitting in the car for over two years which is nigh on impossible, any way whatever you get treat it to a bottle of crystal dissolver [Forte] is good, these cars do not like cheap adblue and especially supermarket fuel, if you want total peace of mind with adblue buy a Peugeot or a Citroen they use pats fluid, ELOYS. Steve.

It may just be a faulty oil pressure switch, but without a diagnosis you can't be certain.

thanks davey

Did you renew the filter at the same time as the oil? Are there any unusual knocking sounds under load? Is there any drop in performance? Is there any smoke from the exhaust?

I bet that pained the branch manager.

You need to be sure. Were they VCDS equivalent or just cheap Ebay purchases?

I had exactly the same issue with my 2019 A6 Avant 40 TDI Sport last year, failed MOT at 39K miles and a similar cost @ £250 per side. Thankfully i had got a deal earlier in the year for the "all in service and warranty" with Audi and they replaced FOC.

Could be either or indeed oxygen sensor. If engine managment light comes on again, then code will be logged. VCDS scan will record DTC error. If car is performing regeneration and no issues, that might point to clogged EGR valve. I'd be tempted to drop in a bottle of Forte diesel conditioner to quarter tank and drive hard. That won't do any harm.

Yes this was in the back of my mind as well. I guess a Euro 6 will give us a bit of future proofing.

Echo Steve's comment regards Forte product. I now add to every AdBlue top up. Regards AdBlue, then Audi had a spate of issues with AdBlue pumps. Either the tank, pump or integrated circuit board, but either way its expensive repair. I hear what you're saying regards not needing Euro 6, but suspect legislation will come along anyway to force Euro 5 off the road with increases to road tax, etc. 7-8k miles is okay mileage wise. Avoid short run trips and change the oil and filter potentially sooner to keep engine in tip top condition. I've run all my diesels on Edge 5w30. As long as its within VW specification.

Similar issues regarding rear windscreen wiper and washer turning on intermittently, and drips of rusty water running out. I removed the tailgate trim, which is held on by two screws with star shaped heads underneath the emergency triangle storage box, and also by press in clips, which pull out fairly easily. The electrical connector and the hose clip are easily removed. I removed the base plate for the wiper motor assembly and washer spigot (very small star bits). It was full of rusty sludge. I cleaned it up and also cleaned the washer nozzles, using fine brushes. I reassembled it. On test, it leaked. I dismantled and re-evaluated.The washer fluid hose connects to a plastic spigot attached to the base plate, which in turn connects to the metal spigot that feeds the washer jets at the base of the wiper arm. When pressure builds up behind the nozzles, due to fouling, the plastic rather than the metal gives way and stretches slightly. Then the pressure of normal operation squeezes some washer fluid between the central spigot and its connector. I wrapped the metal spigot with a turn and a half of self amalgamating rubber tape and reassembled. The leak has stopped. The washer operates normally. The wiper operates normally, switches on and off when operated and stops at the correct point. Note that I would have preferred to work on the unit at the bench but the spline connector for the wiper base has rusted in. In my view it is a bad design to run water through the middle of an electromechanical device using press on fittings rather than securing the fluid tubing with pressure resistant connectors. The design is worse because it mates plastic and metal.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

Was new battery coded to the car? If not then this could affect electrical items working/fault codes. Full service required and gearbox oil service. The water that's built up, has it made its way into the cabin? Wet carpet could indicate a damaged CCM.

Waxoil won't stop the corrosion. The alloy insert is there to strengthen the rubber suspension seat. It corrodes from the inside. Leave it and you risk the spring breaking. Easier to replace on a 2WD car. On quattro, you can remove lower shock mount. You need a piston jack to extend lower trailing arm down. Worst case scenario, loosen subframe bolt a few turns too. No need to undo the eccentric bolt either.

**update** Replaced the high pressure fuel pump and seems to have fixed the issue. Only had the car with a new pump fitted for a day and so far so good

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

Hi its quite a common problem mostly the rubber bit rotting out but if I were you I would take heed of the term not seriously weakened, get under the back clean the alloy bit with a small wire brush and then give it a coat of Waxoyl that will keep the rot at bay for years, did mine when I first got it 2019 and they were still good four years later. Steve.