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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham

Hello Joel, Can I say it as I see it? You are trying to convince yourself that all maybe (in caps) alright, without evidence that it is. In reality, everything you now say are assumptions, and we all know what that word can be broken down to. The car hasn’t really had the best of servicing with the last owner, but only to the bare minimum requirement. Extended warranty?? Yes of course you can pay c£1,500 over 3 years for a warranty - with you paying the first £250 of each and every claim - and locked in to paying Audi servicing charges?? A warranty maybe a handy backstop to have, but every claim comes with hassle and the inevitable ‘it’s wear and take and not covered’. Again, saying it as I see it, I wouldn’t be surprised if you convince yourself to buy it. Please bare in mind that you will hopefully get other opinions on here. Kind regards, Gareth. Gareth.

Really not sure. Will keep you posted if I get it sorted

I solved the vibration of the airbag at low revs by lining the space under the airbags with this packing foam. It's quiet for now. 🙂

Well i finally got my coolant leak issue resolved. Hose and seal issues. So extended warranty wouldn't cover it. Dealer said they will cover costs as gesture of good faith. ( i did wait a while for an appointment) I am pleasantly surprised, and faith in the dealers has been considerably restored. Any other pleasant dealership stories out there.

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

Loving those wheels 👍

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. If you've bought it from a dealer then they have to fix it foc in the first 30 days from sale as you're still entitled to a full refund within that time.

Hi on the other hand you could just try converting it to standard shocks if you only buy one side thats a no,no as shockers are always replaced in pairs, I found shocks on eBay that came with the caps for far less than the price for just one, standard shocks give you the option of Bilstein, Monroe, Sachs which are all the same if not better. Mag ride is a gimmick that sounds wonderful in theory but its only an electrical current passed into the oil which makes the metal floating in the oil bond so it gives the relief valve a far greater volume to deal with therefore stiffening the flow, Monotube shocks are far better as they are gas over oil and give more progressive damping and better tyre contact, can't beat a bit of Bilstein. Steve.

Yes history looks all ok just looking for a car that looks the part, goes, peanuts on tax and way less fuel cost compared to my 3.0L Discovery 4.

Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....

Called garage and asked they are happy taking my car and waiting for the new V5. So happy days. Thanks bud.

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work

Hi its quite a common problem mostly the rubber bit rotting out but if I were you I would take heed of the term not seriously weakened, get under the back clean the alloy bit with a small wire brush and then give it a coat of Waxoyl that will keep the rot at bay for years, did mine when I first got it 2019 and they were still good four years later. Steve.

Diane. Have you read the whole thread? There are suggestions near its start, and questions which would help all of us to home in on your problem.

Hi, I had the same problem on my 2017 a4 allroad last year, same place, o/s/r lower, I had mine replaced at an independent v w garage at just over £100. p.s. my brother, who has the identical car had his go as well on the o/s/r/ seems funny it is always the o/s/r. that goes.

£7680 private, £8130 independent dealer, £8990 franchised dealer. That's true, he could've said! I did ask him to send me MoT & service history, but that won't be until Tuesday as he's away working, which is before we had arranged to view, if we do. Still mulling it over atm. I will let you know what we decide. Kind regards, Dawn

Hi try eBay or put in a request in breaker link.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

Thanks yes, saw that thread. It seems a common issue with the C7, they like to let water in as much as possible. Further investigation this evening and I narrowed down the leak. See the picture attached, but the leak is coming through a seam in the side wall. Circled the area in red. I have sealed this area with Gorilla waterproof patch & seal tape. I removed the Voltage stabiliser unit to dry it out, and also moved the wiring loom for the Voltage Stabiliser unit up and back out of the spare wheel well up into the area where the main fuse board unit is. I hope that these two actions will cure the problem.

Looks like its sorted , I thought I would check the connections around the ECU so removed the bulkhead trim and found about 6mm of silt / gunge in the area below the ECU , the drain was blocked and whole area looked damp , after clearing silt and unblocking drain I dried the whole area with electrical solvent . 10 minutes later all warning light went out and have not reappeared and that was 3 days ago, so hopefully

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.

H Hi Gareth is spot on there is another guy on here at this very moment, Will Stevens having holy hell with his extended warranty, every time he goes in THE COMPUTER SAYS NOT covered, Audi could not guarantee a funeral plan once they have your money possession is nine tenths of the law, looking at the dynamics of it full service history should mean a clear and transparent history from day one, they certainly new what they were doing when they abandoned service history books. Steve.

Hi everyone just an update ,my headlight has been replaced under warranty ,10/10 for Audi uk customer service,very happy Ampr

On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.