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  1. From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊
    4 points
  2. Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem
    3 points
  3. Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.
    2 points
  4. Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.
    2 points
  5. Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.
    2 points
  6. Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.
    2 points
  7. Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?
    2 points
  8. Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module
    2 points
  9. https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
    2 points
  10. happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁
    2 points
  11. Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.
    2 points
  12. Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.
    2 points
  13. Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  14. Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham
    2 points
  15. Hello Joel, Can I say it as I see it? You are trying to convince yourself that all maybe (in caps) alright, without evidence that it is. In reality, everything you now say are assumptions, and we all know what that word can be broken down to. The car hasn’t really had the best of servicing with the last owner, but only to the bare minimum requirement. Extended warranty?? Yes of course you can pay c£1,500 over 3 years for a warranty - with you paying the first £250 of each and every claim - and locked in to paying Audi servicing charges?? A warranty maybe a handy backstop to have, but every claim comes with hassle and the inevitable ‘it’s wear and take and not covered’. Again, saying it as I see it, I wouldn’t be surprised if you convince yourself to buy it. Please bare in mind that you will hopefully get other opinions on here. Kind regards, Gareth. Gareth.
    2 points
  16. Not sure whether anyone will be interested in this but I just thought I would post my musings on our 4 week tour to Germany in our Q8. We just returned on Wednesday after crossing over on the Shuttle four weeks ago and making our way to Dortmund for our first overnight stop . Then we headed south to the little town of Parsbeg in Bavaria whjre we stayed for several days. Then up into the mountains of Bavaria to stay at Berchtesgaden for 5 days. We then crossed back to Berlin for a few days and then onto the wonderful city of Dresden where we stayed for a week. Finally we headed to a favourite Schlosshotel of ours in Lower Saxony whe re we stayed for 8 days. And then a leisurely drive heading for home for the same overnight in Dortmund before we spent 3 days in the little Belgian town of Ypres. I have a great Uncle who is buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Cemery at Tyne Cot. If anyone wants to visit a site that will take your breath away visit this cemetry. The number of young British Tommies buried here who perished in the mud of Paschendale wil make you weep . I have to say that although my missus and I have been touring Germany in the car for many years the road network of the country has deteriated a little in the last few years. Not so much you understand as the apalling state that the UK roads are in now. Many more speed restrictions and repairs on their Autobahn sytem now. However the overiding opinion was that their autobahns, their A and B roads are still in a superb state compared to our roads. Great signage,billiard smooth surfaces, well engineered cambers etc. Also the standard of driving on the Autobahns is so much higher than here. Precise signalling to either come out in a lane or back in again and an almost 100 % compliance to speed restrictions . The only thing I would say is that if you do get in the big boys outside lane on the unrestricted stuff to overtake slower traffic, even though you are probably doing 120 mph, the fast boys behind doing 140/150 plus will try to bully you to get back inside ! And also just maybe the UK registration and sticker does provoke some just a tad ! The car went well. We ticked over from 8000 miles to over 1000. Comfortable and just about fast enough. We had theusual software gliches that any Audi owber recognises nowadays. Lost the top screen one time as it just got stuck trying to initialsie. Then I lost my user identity " thingy " at start up one time so when I started the car my preference didnt kick in. Nothing too nasty and all sorted by a quick reboot by starting the car up again. The most annoying thing was a repeated loud bong and red warning triangle and exclamation mark in the drivers panel warninf of " limited visibilty " ! This came onquite a few times on the Autobahn when the minimum visibilty was at the very least 300 metres and more. God bless the EU eh in forcing he manufacturers in giving us that. Hope ths is of interest. If not just ignore. Frank
    2 points
  17. Japanese cars are usually better condition in comparison, their roads are amazing and clean, they don't salt their roads so usually underneath is spot on. You just need to make sure the agent in japan knows his beans when it comes to an auction purchase. I have had many a jap import of Japanese cars but cannot see it being much different for other brands too. Best bet is to get the VIN number and do a carVX report, this will show you the auction hisotry and their inspections, bit like MOT history. Cheap and well worth doing. https://carvx.jp/?referrer=VPjcntpvyYfg
    2 points
  18. Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.
    1 point
  19. Hi everyone I'm new here and already had some great help from members, read loads of useful stuff, I've personally imported a 8p s3 in yellow for my wife from Japan it's not our first import I buy all our cars from Japan. I will try to add a couple of photos soon
    1 point
  20. Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  21. You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. i bought this car yesterday It’s back on the road and being used as intended
    1 point
  24. New here, never owned an Audi until now heres a wee pic
    1 point
  25. just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated
    1 point
  26. Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.
    1 point
  27. Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  28. Yes history looks all ok just looking for a car that looks the part, goes, peanuts on tax and way less fuel cost compared to my 3.0L Discovery 4.
    1 point
  29. Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !
    1 point
  30. Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....
    1 point
  31. Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.
    1 point
  32. Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋
    1 point
  33. Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............
    1 point
  34. Hello R? Certainly +1 for Steve’s recommendation. Why is everyone still hell bent on using ECP despite having virtually discontinued -? their high % discounts on their ‘Retail price’, which generally ended up with the buyer paying more than they would have paid elsewhere? Another tip - but keep it to yourself!! - PinM often have a % discounts at the end of the month. I too have had superb service from them, and they are always my first port of call for any parts I need. Incase it helps, a family member is now ‘experimenting’ with Brembo following disappointment with genuine JLR parts - so far, Brembo are proving to be more efficient and longer lasting. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Why not fill in your name R, and your location - big place is England! We don’t bite on here, we just hope to come over as being helpful.
    1 point
  35. Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican
    1 point
  36. Hi the best thing to do is ring an on line company Parts in motion they will be able to tell you exactly what size discs you have from your REG/VIN Number, they only sell on eBay but will be able to give you item number for discs that will fit your car, and are probably 40% cheaper than Euro car parts, I use them a lot and I have never had a bad experience. Steve.
    1 point
  37. going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work
    1 point
  38. A couple of things to bear in mind …if there’s no exhaust parts hanging down /loose, Maybe a stone trapped between brake disc and backing plate ! It happened to me once! Maybe a damaged backing plate making contact with a brake disc? I noticed a squealing sound at one point … maybe a sticking brake calliper? Are any of your brake disc getting exceptionally hot?
    1 point
  39. Hmm, been following this thread with interest, in a previous life I was a naval engineer, so I’m very aware of just how corrosive salt water can be, even over a short time and of course vented discs have an ‘inside’ that you can’t see, that’s corroding away merrily that close to the sea. ceramic discs will stop it all. Coated discs, as Charles said, if it’s just a surface treatment, it clearly won’t survive as a surface very long and will then allow the swept surface of the disc to corrode, but, as it’s the swept area, there’ll still be the nasty grinding noises when you 1st use the brakes. the coating, assuming it covers 100% of the entire disc (inside & out), would still stop those areas corroding but at a much lower cost. depends how much the grinding gets on your nerves. be interesting to see how you get on if you go for the coated discs, I’m fairly close to the coast (7 miles) but it’s not too bad here for salt spray etc, we get some, but only in high winds & storms.
    1 point
  40. Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.
    1 point
  41. Hell Kendal Steve, The two stumbling blocks here, are surface cleanliness of the mating surfaces, and the ‘quality’ of the adhesive to use. The likelihood is that you won’t be able to buy an economical small quality of the necessary professional adhesive, and any attempt to use a sub standard product will result in an almost impossible situation to retrieve. If this were mine, I would be searching for Classic Car Trimmers in the area, and seeking advice there. We all like to DIY things, but I fear this is one job where specialist materials will be required. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  42. H Hi Gareth is spot on there is another guy on here at this very moment, Will Stevens having holy hell with his extended warranty, every time he goes in THE COMPUTER SAYS NOT covered, Audi could not guarantee a funeral plan once they have your money possession is nine tenths of the law, looking at the dynamics of it full service history should mean a clear and transparent history from day one, they certainly new what they were doing when they abandoned service history books. Steve.
    1 point
  43. Hi Ian. I changed the Badges on my Audi. The front one is held on by fairly strong clips. Start at the bottom with a sharp knife and prise the badge away from the grill just a little so that you can get a flat blade screw driver in and work your way along the bottom a bit at a time. If I remember I think there are 6 clips. You will find that it will come off OK. Tony
    1 point
  44. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂
    1 point
  45. Hi Gareth Jason would of known what was what, everything that could be useless or misleading all available from google. Steve.
    1 point
  46. If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.
    1 point
  47. Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC
    1 point
  48. And no vibration at the steering wheel or pedals? In that case I would look to the rear tyres being damaged or out of balance as the most likely candidate. That does not rule out other possibilities such as worn wheel bearings, loose wheel nuts, warped brake discs but they wou;d cause symptoms that you have not mentioned.
    1 point
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