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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Well i finally got my coolant leak issue resolved. Hose and seal issues. So extended warranty wouldn't cover it. Dealer said they will cover costs as gesture of good faith. ( i did wait a while for an appointment) I am pleasantly surprised, and faith in the dealers has been considerably restored. Any other pleasant dealership stories out there.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Those v70s were great!

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Thanks Cameron, Take it you have searched EBay, and registered your ‘Want’ on on-line breaker link systems such as Partsfinder - there are more. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have. Steve.

You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

For sale: 2003 Audi A3 Quattro Sport 1.9 TDI (130 BHP) 3 door hatchback The car has fairly low mileage for its age (not quite146,000 miles). Careful lady owner from 2007 to present (1 prior owner) Purchased in 2007 the car is still running well and has been serviced at makers specified intervals. (Full service history available). MOT covers up to 11 November 2024. Latest regular cambelt & water pump replacement was January 2021 (@135,800 miles). Reconditioned gearbox & new clutch in January 2022 (@139,900 miles). All road springs have been renewed. Suspension bushes renewed. New headlamp housings were fitted in 2017. New battery was fitted in February 2023 (5 year guarantee). New front tyres in November 2023. (Rear tyres have over 60% tread remaining). Minor mechanical repairs were addressed as required during ownership, & details can be provided. There are a few very minor bodywork ‘dings’. Alarm removed for repair (available). Fuel & temp gauges under reading. Love this car but reluctantly selling as we don’t have space for it any more. Looking for best offer of £1,000 plus for this rare A3 variant.

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....

going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work

It'll definitely need to be coded.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

Hello Nick, As Stevey says. I been putting a dampener on anything to do with large wheels for some time, since the trend seems to be for the largest wheels and the skinniest tyres - because they look good. Yet, you cannot see the wheels when you are sat in the car, but you are the one who suffers the adverse ride quality. Add to the potential of harder sidewalls, probably XL etc. and everything gets magnified. An equally aged friend found the ride to be not to his liking on an S.Line with skinny tyres chosen for him by his children - it went back. Mind, I’d not be too happy about the expense of changing wheels and tyres, but… Interesting you mention Bridgestone, since I have been considering these on our non-Audi. For me, I want as comfortable ride as I can get from the tyres, and as much mileage as poss. so any recommendations are welcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

Hi its the thermostat on the water pump that controls the engine temp the other one before the the heater is the one that controls the cabin temp, if that one is playing about all your hot water flies through the bypass system. Steve.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.

Thanks Steve, I think they are probably cornering lights. I'll check later and let you know. Bryan.

Could be the ECU and the only way you'll know is sending it off for repair. You might be able to buy a second hand one from eBay but it must be the exact same part number. Then the imobiliser will need to be removed from it or recoded to work for your car.

https://www.thewheelshop.co.uk/product-category/space-saver-wheels/audi/ they sell just put your details of model in and make sure you get the right wheel size

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Hello David, Welcome and thanks for joining. You are in grave danger of kissing goodby to your Audi’s warranty on your one year old car, by attempting to service the car yourself. I’m not sure if you own the car outright, or have it on something like a PCP, but whatever, the car will be deemed to have incomplete service history, and will be devalued accordingly. Sorry to point out that if you don’t know what oil to use, then you are not in a good place to start anyway. Adblue from Aldi’s? Same principle applies if you have to argue any warranty. Kind regards, Gareth.