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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Hi Sorry it’s been a while since I logged in. They eventually found a very small oil leak from a seal on the drive shaft that was spitting oil onto the turbo. They had to remove the engine to fix it. ive since got rid of the A6 and am driving an A3 instead. I’m just pretty sure Audi make great smaller cars but the quality control in the big ones is just not good enough. declan

Thinking of selling my 1990 Coupe E, looking for some guidance on value if possible. 180k miles, starts and runs fine, been sat in garage for several years, original wheels, manual replaced gearbox. Tired interior and age related scratches on body but solid, no rust.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Welcome Fi, and thanks for joining. First things first:- Can we take it you have studied copy of the on-line MOT history for this car? Also, have you seen evidence of its service history? Have you done an on-line DVLA Vehicle Check to see when the last V5 was issued? This will give you some idea of how long the last owner has owned it? Short ownership - possibly not good. Down to specifics:- Water leaks- search the forum for issues and possible solutions. Panoramic roof - potentially a problem area due to generally non solvable leaks. Personal view ( pardon the pun!) I wouldn’t be interested. Hopefully owner members will fill in the remaining answers for you. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hi everyone I'm new here and already had some great help from members, read loads of useful stuff, I've personally imported a 8p s3 in yellow for my wife from Japan it's not our first import I buy all our cars from Japan. I will try to add a couple of photos soon

Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi Coventry run the diagnostics and found no faults. So I went to Rugby services to try their 350kwh charger... and it charged perfectly. Then I realised that the charger cable was on the right and plugged easily into the DC charging port on the right (drivers) side of my etron as I had entered the bay nose first. I recall the chargers that had been problematic at Woolley Edge and Wetherby had cables on the left side and it was quite a stretch to drag them across the bonnet to plug in as they wanted to retract. So I surmise that was the issue i.e. the charging cable was not properly seated. Next time I will reverse in if I use these chargers.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. If you've bought it from a dealer then they have to fix it foc in the first 30 days from sale as you're still entitled to a full refund within that time.

Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !

Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

Hi Dan. I would think paint would last that long being bombarded by grit off the road. But, you can buy a proper black surround and grill for the A3 from E Bay for £120. Tony

Welcome, and thanks for joining Michael. I’ve always used VAG’s brand - Quantum - and see no reason to try anything else. Check that the grade required is 5w/30. I always buy from reputable sellers on EBay, and order the Longlife 3. Would suggest using Mann or similar (German branded) filters, and yes, I would change every two years. I cover about the same mileage in a non- Audi, used only for summer months, and that is my regime for that car. Kind regards, Gareth.

A couple of things to bear in mind …if there’s no exhaust parts hanging down /loose, Maybe a stone trapped between brake disc and backing plate ! It happened to me once! Maybe a damaged backing plate making contact with a brake disc? I noticed a squealing sound at one point … maybe a sticking brake calliper? Are any of your brake disc getting exceptionally hot?

Hello Nick, As Stevey says. I been putting a dampener on anything to do with large wheels for some time, since the trend seems to be for the largest wheels and the skinniest tyres - because they look good. Yet, you cannot see the wheels when you are sat in the car, but you are the one who suffers the adverse ride quality. Add to the potential of harder sidewalls, probably XL etc. and everything gets magnified. An equally aged friend found the ride to be not to his liking on an S.Line with skinny tyres chosen for him by his children - it went back. Mind, I’d not be too happy about the expense of changing wheels and tyres, but… Interesting you mention Bridgestone, since I have been considering these on our non-Audi. For me, I want as comfortable ride as I can get from the tyres, and as much mileage as poss. so any recommendations are welcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

My local Audi is in Worthing (Roundstone). Tell your Audi Service Dept that Audi have issued a bulletin (March 2024) regarding this fault and that it has nothing to do with the stop/start generator. If they find nothing then ask them to get in touch with Audi Worthing for details. The cost of the repair (parts/labour/VAT) was around £200. Hope this is the "fix" for your fault.

Thanks Les -? Saying it as it is, the only clue you give us is that it’s a stop/start battery, and regrettably you have chosen/can’t be bothered to, either give your name, model of car or your location. As one of the other moderators often says ‘ we are a friendly and helpful group’, and indeed we are, but….. help yourself to gain the help you need! Rant over, except a please or thank you wouldn’t’ go amiss. Answer - almost certainly yes.

Hi its the thermostat on the water pump that controls the engine temp the other one before the the heater is the one that controls the cabin temp, if that one is playing about all your hot water flies through the bypass system. Steve.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

OK - mystery solved !!! Initial diagnostics pointed to a faulty stop/start generator (AKA Alternator). A replacement was ordered and required shipping from Germany as none in the UK. The part was delivered and then an instruction received by my Audi garage NOT TO FIT THE PART and run another check - per Audi instructions. This new check indeed revealed the root cause of the problem that I have been experiencing. The problem was due to a defective Auxiliary Belt Tensioner. Required parts were fitted and included a replacement belt - this was more a precaution than requirement as the defective belt tensioner may have contributed to premature excessive wear. I insisted that the car was taken for an extensive test drive before taking it back. All was well - and still is. I now have the car back (after 2-3 weeks off the road while awaiting parts). Will monitor the situation, but reasonably confident that this time Audi have got it right.

Hi mate. Unfortunately (or fortunately) for me it was one of those issues that just went away itself so not quite sure what the issue was….

On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.

Thank you 😊 lol, well I'm hoping I'll be able to get it back on the road asap as I want to bring my daughter along to the shows. Oh bless ya, hope you get better soon. Definitely, wife and I have been wanting children for the last 7 years.

And no vibration at the steering wheel or pedals? In that case I would look to the rear tyres being damaged or out of balance as the most likely candidate. That does not rule out other possibilities such as worn wheel bearings, loose wheel nuts, warped brake discs but they wou;d cause symptoms that you have not mentioned.