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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Thanks again Sid I also found similar but steered away from it as camera dint appear to be the same. I've sorted it now with the switch off eBay. Which can also be purchased from RS. It's an omron switch part no D2HW A201D Photos attached show the tabs soldered on to allow the original wiring harness plug to connect. Bit fiddly but it works. Link to switch on RS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Omron+D2HW+A201D

You may remember I sold my Audi E Tron GT at the end of August due to insurance cost (£3K) and also the RFT (£450). Incidentally it hasn't sold yet. I thought I would bid you all farewell and thank you for the info, and tips over the years I had Audis. I have just purchased a new Jeacoo J7 SHS Hybrid. It's not bad. Loads of goodies, 56 miles on electric, 700 miles total tank range, albeit I have only done 125 miles so far. It's good value, pretty good finish, but it is definitely not an Audi. Thanks for every thing. Tony

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Had my 21 plate Q7 down tools with the same error as many of you have experienced. Dealing with the garage was as a bit of a pain, nothing was written down and no one wanted to place any blame on the part. However, I picked the car back up today with a new alternator and battery at zero cost to me from Stratford Audi. Now to follow up with Audi UK for recovery costs. Thanks for all the advice on this thread, helped a lot in saving me a significant bill.

Just a quick update on my case — I picked up the car on Tuesday. All the repairs, including diagnostics, were fully covered under the 7-year extended warranty. The newly installed BSG also comes with an additional 3-year warranty. To my surprise, when I collected the car, I found a generous gift box from Audi in the boot. It included jackets, a hat, a bottle of Moët champagne, air fresheners, a backpack, a cup, a key ring, a cleaning kit, and a few other thoughtful extras. Overall, Audi really stepped up and handled the issue to the standard I expected. I've learned my lesson and decided to take out the extended warranty plan with Audi — better safe than sorry! All in all, I’m pleased with how everything was resolved and back on the road with renewed confidence.

Issue resolved. User error. Happy to embarrass myself if it helps others....this safety label was still attached to the new battery and wouldn't complete the circuit. Thanks everyone. 🫣

Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

We don’t know your driving history to date, but £400 a month on insurance is insane, considering cost of fuel and running costs as it is. Unfortunately males under 25 are deemed high risk, and of course the area where car is left overnight and your job will also have impact. Use some of the insurance comparison sites, on a standard 1 litre car for example and see what comes back price wise. You can also add telemetric box, which means you need to drive within speed limit at all times and even when you drive. Additional advanced driving qualification may help, but ultimately you need to be over 25 with no claims to start bringing it down.

Hello Dillon, So that is £4,800/pa, add to that, the car’s depreciation over that year, and you really are into bonkers territory! I am ignoring any finance you may be paying, together with the annual road tax, and obviously the actual running costs of the car. Sorry to put it bluntly, but you are in extreme danger of running yourself into an economic disaster - unless your earnings are exceptionally high,or you are ‘of some means’. As Cliff says - assuming you have checked all comparison sites - you will need to seriously research vehicles with low insurance groupings, and cut your cloth to suit those vehicles. Really sorry to say it as I see it, but it’s madness to have to spend a significant amount of amount of your working time to ‘feed your current situation’. Regards, Gareth.

The ability of a battery to crank and fire the engine is not evidence that it is in good shape. That was true years ago in the days of points in distributors, but not since the advent of sensitive electronics. I suggest you get the battery properly tested (not by a multimeter). I'd go further and say that if it is more than five years old you should renew it irrespective of the test results. Don't forget to get the new battery coded to the car.

Pleasure James, I like your approach to keeping this car maintained as it should be, and not as VAG suggests ( explanations already given). Having said that, with delivery mileage only, personally I wouldn’t be getting the oil change done at handover, but waiting until September when it has a few miles under its belt. Regards, Gareth.

hi lads,yes it was me who bought the car and its now here in ireland,its an interesting car and i hope to have her up and running soon,ill keep the forum posted on the progress,Greg

Did you get a print out of the test results for the battery’s various perimeters, and what brand is it? Was the alternator output checked at the same time? Is the car in regular daily use, and what is its normal journey pattern? Regards, Gareth.

So mudguards fitted. I think they look good. Was easy enough and managed to do it without removing wheels. However a couple of points to note. 1: when fitting the front guards, you first have to “pop” a couple of rivets on each side (keep the top rivet in situ). This is done by pushing the centre of the rivet through with a very small screwdriver. Thanks to @Das for his help on this. However the holes left behind in the bodywork were actually too big for the screws supplied with my mudguards. Luckily I had a (very) old pack of U Clips from Halfords in my toolbox and was able to use these to make the holes more useable and the mudguards very secure. Had to drill a small hole to secure the bottom of the mudguard (small enough so the supplied screws would fit) but did this once I had fitted and secured the guards using the two screws and U Clips to the side. Turning front wheel full lock will allow enough space, at least it did with my 20inch alloys. I’m sure 21’s will also be fine. 2: Rears, whilst being able to utilise the torx screws already in place, had a lot less room to work with. I ended up using an adjustable wrench and the correct torx bit. Was a bit fiddly, but got the job done. Anyway I’m very happy with the results. May not be for everyone, but I’m happy with the less shouty “dad wagon” vibe that I’m trying achieve and the mudguards add to that I think.

It's always extremely difficult to pursuade people that a battery can be defective when it still cranks the engine normally, and has a voltage of 12.4 at rest.

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

You may be better off having the existing rack overhauled to avoid any mismatch from secondhand units. There are many companies specialising in this work to be found by an internet search.

Ok, I'm on the final stretch, I can see the finish line ahead. Hopefully next Friday it can get an MOT. The final parts to complete are, Plug the seats in and clear the Airbag light, Plug the rear Abs sensors in and clear the Abs light, Bolt the front bumper on, Space the rear exhaust down a bit as the tailpipe trims are touching the bumper, Re adjust the rear parking sensor wires as I cut through them when trimming the bumper, Bolt the clutch reservoir to the bulkhead. I will leave the audi r8 rear wheels as they are for now, I can get the new rears to match the fronts in the r8 fitment, it's just not needed for now. The exhaust seems to fit fine, it does sound nice too which was a bonus.

Long time since I started this thread. Thought I would provide an update with coding for anyone searching this thread. I used genuine audi parts for an A3 8y - package number 8Y0.054.634A with wiring harness 8Y0.054.733 which cost £232. It came with instructions for fitting but not coding. I put the wiring through the car following the recommended route although short cut down the boot side trim rather than take the whole side trim out but the rest was along the floor clipped to the existing wiring. No trim broken or clips. One change I made was to use the earth inside the boot lid rather than inside the car body as this also saved removing some of the trim. Gaining access to the J533 module for connections was difficult and took some time to release and wriggle out from behind the steering column. Coding using OBD11 professional Gateway 19 long coding Sdf unlock PaCo_video_parksystem change to RVC_compact_smart Multimedia Adaption: Search bap: VPS_0X0B = activate VPS_OXB_msg_bus = terminal15 Search function_configuration_unit RCV_ video_input = Ethernet Note: If purchasing a new camera as I did from audi you will need to load parameters via e-odis. Any garage with e-odis should be able to do this if you have the audi part numbers. My local independent vag garage charged £50.

I sent my A4 allroad B9 for an MOT - no lights on pre MOT. Collected it with the Yellow warning triangle and Auto headlight fault. Garage denied they did anything. Also, all the dash board lights went superbright and the dimmer wouldnt work. Local Audi specialist helped out, the told me the MOT guys tripped a fuse but i wouldnt be able to prove it. Took them a while to find the right fuse that was blown as its not numbered ( Thanks Audi). Located in passenger footwell in Fuse Carrier 2 ST2. Just thought i would share.

Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting numerous photo sessions of what goes where. I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. You’ll get there. Good luck, Gareth.

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings. Steve.

Hi,I'm new to this Audi messaging and i just want to let you know that changing the rear disc and pads on my Audi A3 Quattro was a bit challenging.. I just want to let you all know that taking off the rear caliper you will need a torx T30(made by lazer) and a breaker bar(15") 3/8 drive. I bought it all on ebay. It took me around a 1 hr each side. These torx bolts were very tight but they move with a bit of a perseverance...

Andy. It's unrealistic to expect a valuation without an opportunity to inspect it, to listen to it, to test drive it, or to examine the service history. Look at Autotrader and the like, or go to a dealer.

Many thanks everyone for your input. i know that Celtic have a very good reputation, but on balance, i think it may be best to leave well alone for now. it may also be that it will be fool’s errand as in all probability the ECU is locked 😢

Thank you chaps, and the same to you all. After watching the concert from the Musikverein Vienna, I'll take advantage of the sunshine and walk the lanes nearby. Cliff.

No specific experience of Celtic Tuning. But I see they actually advertise DPF and EGR deletions, that tells me all I need to know. I've watched my fair share of modifications and if I was going to do it - I'd search our Darkside Developments. They seem very knowledgeable technically speaking. As with all performance upgrades - it's what can the gearbox handle? I know in your case whether 30 TDI (114bhp) or 35 TDI (147bhp) if mated with an S Tronic auto box, then just keep up maintenance regime or that's an expensive fix. You'll already know on 2024 build car you'll automatically invalidate what's left of manufacturer's warranty.

It has nothing to with theft prevention, and everything to do with ensuring the battery is charged correctly to avoid damage.

Thanks Magnet . More info as you suggested. Have owned car since 2017. It's in reasonable condition bodywise , has full leather seats and factory sunroof. Head lining needs replacing but otherwise interior good .Front end accident damage in 2021 - bonnet radiator and headlights replaced .Good deal of work done on engine in 2022 with rocker gaskets and oil seals replaced , new timing belt ,water pump and coolant hoses . Has now got fresh oil leak and plastic heater core tail has broken up. Needs someone with a workshop and the necessary skills to fix it. Believe not many examples left , so hoping someone is interested in preserving it rather than it being broken and / or scrapped. Love this car ,so it's not about money , it's about finding the old girl a new home .

Hi absolutely sod all else, for that sort of money at an independent garage you wold get, oil/filter, pollen and air filter, what you are being charged for is some Wassoc to wander around underneath with a torch and a phone camera trying to find the smallest excuse to generate more overpriced work, when you look on this forum there are loads of people who have been told by Audi that this bush is gone that needs changing, the best one ever on another forum was your brake pads need changing because they are 50% worn, when are people going to wake up to the fact that full Audi service history is not worth a cup of cold goats urine, better an honest independent that values your custom. Steve.

In a word: no. They are all worthless. As you have read for yourself, the exclusions mean the policies will not pay for any of the things the average motorist wants covered.

To answer that specific question, there is a small possibility that the timing belt has jumped a tooth on its sprocket and the engine has stopped in time to avoid damaging any valves, so the garage is hoping that a new belt plus retiming the engine will solve the problem. In reality there is a much bigger chance that either several teeth have been jumped or the belt has broken causing valves to hit the piston crowns. As for the other comments on belt life, I too believe it was a grave mistake for Audi to change its recommendations. VAG is not alone in making this sort of mistake. Look at the problems caused by Ford and others who have changed from dry belts to wet belts in an effort to eliminate an expensive crankshaft seal.

C8 models 2019 onwards. 2.0TDI engine is robust and will be paired with 7-speed S Tronic gearbox. That needs serviced every 38k miles. V6 variant, then 8-speed TipTronic. Diesel 2.0 litre will be timing belt, so renew along with auxilliary belts every 60k miles plus water pump, etc. Personally I’d look for Quattro. That adds a few mpg but it’s surefooted and will help sell thereafter. Like anything, servicing is key. You want paperwork and lots of it. Avoid long service intervals. These are also sensor heavy, so consider purchasing VCDS as checking and clearing codes is £200 from Audi. All diesels, then you’re into AdBlue (Euro6), EGR, DPF, etc. Not sure when mild hybrid system started on petrol and diesel, but it’s complex. Search VAG Technic. It might have been an A8 but it caused them grief to fix. Faults, then rear coil spring seats are known weak point. The alloy corrodes from within the rubber. Rear subframes are just powder coated, so get there with Lanoguard. Front multi link suspension usually good for 100k miles, but will be hydrabushes, etc. On car around 50k miles, then potentially some arms if any knocks. Lemforder or Meyle HD. Another option is A6 Allroad, that’s air suspension. Extras worth getting, matrix headlights, auto towbar if you tow, full panoramic. It’s all money, but something to consider.

Well, this morning I got the car warmed up and the ATF temperature was reading 40deg after a painful 35minutes of idling while periodically slowly going through the gears. While the engine was still running I unscrewed the fill plug and was able to get another 200-300ml of ATF fluid before it came dripping back out. So with roughly 5.8ltrs of ATF back in it I took her for a spin and she was faultless, gears changed quickly and smoothly regardless of what drive mode I was in, even manual shifts. So I'm going to take that as job done. Thankfully the rear diff only took 5min to change the oil.

All went well thanks to your sound advice. Some. Pics. Of the job in case anyone else ever attempts. Many thanks!

Similar issues regarding rear windscreen wiper and washer turning on intermittently, and drips of rusty water running out. I removed the tailgate trim, which is held on by two screws with star shaped heads underneath the emergency triangle storage box, and also by press in clips, which pull out fairly easily. The electrical connector and the hose clip are easily removed. I removed the base plate for the wiper motor assembly and washer spigot (very small star bits). It was full of rusty sludge. I cleaned it up and also cleaned the washer nozzles, using fine brushes. I reassembled it. On test, it leaked. I dismantled and re-evaluated.The washer fluid hose connects to a plastic spigot attached to the base plate, which in turn connects to the metal spigot that feeds the washer jets at the base of the wiper arm. When pressure builds up behind the nozzles, due to fouling, the plastic rather than the metal gives way and stretches slightly. Then the pressure of normal operation squeezes some washer fluid between the central spigot and its connector. I wrapped the metal spigot with a turn and a half of self amalgamating rubber tape and reassembled. The leak has stopped. The washer operates normally. The wiper operates normally, switches on and off when operated and stops at the correct point. Note that I would have preferred to work on the unit at the bench but the spline connector for the wiper base has rusted in. In my view it is a bad design to run water through the middle of an electromechanical device using press on fittings rather than securing the fluid tubing with pressure resistant connectors. The design is worse because it mates plastic and metal.

Totally agree Kevin, it's my biggest gripe on this and other sites where people go out of their way to help others only to be met with silence, and it's becoming increasingly common unfortunately. Maybe it's just me getting old but I find myself having to bite my lip more and more often rather than having a rant online. I brought my kids up to say please and thank you as an absolute minimum when dealing with people but it seems that we and others here who give up their time and knowledge in hope of a simple "thank you" are a dying breed. I remember when I first left school an old guy I worked with telling a rude customer who wanted a favour that you catch more bees with honey than you do with vinegar, and another that said if someone thinks they're helping you out and offers you a bucket of s*** to smile and say thank you, you can always put it on your roses or give it to someone else who needs it. That said, I'll keep giving advice where I can as I appreciate the thanks when I get it and it's nice knowing you've helped someone out.

If the garage that reconditioned the turbo are willing to take it back in then that's the way to go. A few quid on fuel versus a few hundred quid on another turbo is a no brainer. Even if the turbo turns out to be ok at least that one cause off the list.

So, I picked up the convertible this morning — a total bill of £420. Driving very well indeed. I've asked Norwich Audi to quote for replacing the camshaft — along with a new cam belt (it had a cam belt done when the cam was fitted, but I'm not a fan of re-tensioning important belts). I'm away on holiday for the first couple of weeks of September, so I'm going to leave it with them for that time to get the job done. Running an old Audi sometimes feels like being in a bad relationship — it's cost can be staggering — but I love the car… 😆 I'll add to this thread when I get the car back in mid-September. Mike 🙂

Right guys, I sent all 6 injectors off to be tested, low and behold, injector 3 has zero flow on idle. Got it rebuild, fitted it this evening, and I've got a smooth idle! Took it for a drive, no fault codes and no lights. Low rail pressure seems to have disappeared now too. Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone that gave advise. I can finally get back to work now 😂! Cheers once again!

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.

I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.

Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.

First of all I must thank you all for the imput into my Insurance woes. I have now received my new renewal quote from Admiral. It has come in a few pence short of £2k. Which I am more than happy about. So I go on another year driving my fabulous E-Tron GT. Tony

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew