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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Does anybody else get frustrated when people post a question, get suggestions and then never come back with a follow up to say how or if the problem was solved? Surely it's only good manners and it helps people with similar problems.

I know the op might not be here anymore, but for others here: I recently had the chance to drive two identical specked 2024 A3’s, both built within a month of each other with identical speck, 1.5tfsi DSG, with very similar mileage. The only difference was one was running a set of new Bridgestone Potenza Sport, the other was on a new set of new Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6. Both were on 235/35R19 V91 After driving for over a month on different road conditions both cars, the difference in tires was quite noticeably different. The Goodyear were noticeably quieter and felt more comfortable on our rough UK pot holed roads, the Bridgestones by comparison felt harsher and noticeably noisier, handling wise, not that they were pushed to their extreme, the Bridgestone felt better cornering in the dry, but I personally preferred the Goodyear in the wet on the bends. I was not expecting to notice much difference between the two, but a difference of tire brand made the cars feel completely different to drive on a daily basis, the Goodyear were far better for me.

Hi just thought i would let everyone know and stop all the confusion on the virtual cockpit with headlights in Europe. just been to 9 countries on a road trip and never got flashed for my headlights. left them on auto and turned off high beam assist . started the car in France and the headlights automatically adjusted themselves gong by the gps. switched over from mph to kmh in mmi. enjoyed our first long journey in the A4 of approx. 1900kmh. it took me ages to get response from Audi about headlights and found out from my neighbour who works for VW. happy travels.

I believe those symptoms are severe enough to justify rejecting the car and asking for a refund.

Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Thanks again Sid I also found similar but steered away from it as camera dint appear to be the same. I've sorted it now with the switch off eBay. Which can also be purchased from RS. It's an omron switch part no D2HW A201D Photos attached show the tabs soldered on to allow the original wiring harness plug to connect. Bit fiddly but it works. Link to switch on RS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Omron+D2HW+A201D

You may remember I sold my Audi E Tron GT at the end of August due to insurance cost (£3K) and also the RFT (£450). Incidentally it hasn't sold yet. I thought I would bid you all farewell and thank you for the info, and tips over the years I had Audis. I have just purchased a new Jeacoo J7 SHS Hybrid. It's not bad. Loads of goodies, 56 miles on electric, 700 miles total tank range, albeit I have only done 125 miles so far. It's good value, pretty good finish, but it is definitely not an Audi. Thanks for every thing. Tony

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Had my 21 plate Q7 down tools with the same error as many of you have experienced. Dealing with the garage was as a bit of a pain, nothing was written down and no one wanted to place any blame on the part. However, I picked the car back up today with a new alternator and battery at zero cost to me from Stratford Audi. Now to follow up with Audi UK for recovery costs. Thanks for all the advice on this thread, helped a lot in saving me a significant bill.

Just a quick update on my case — I picked up the car on Tuesday. All the repairs, including diagnostics, were fully covered under the 7-year extended warranty. The newly installed BSG also comes with an additional 3-year warranty. To my surprise, when I collected the car, I found a generous gift box from Audi in the boot. It included jackets, a hat, a bottle of Moët champagne, air fresheners, a backpack, a cup, a key ring, a cleaning kit, and a few other thoughtful extras. Overall, Audi really stepped up and handled the issue to the standard I expected. I've learned my lesson and decided to take out the extended warranty plan with Audi — better safe than sorry! All in all, I’m pleased with how everything was resolved and back on the road with renewed confidence.

Issue resolved. User error. Happy to embarrass myself if it helps others....this safety label was still attached to the new battery and wouldn't complete the circuit. Thanks everyone. 🫣

So the key information for this part is its M12 x 1.5 pitch x 120mm. Tough times call for tough measures. Could N90924103 be used instead? As far as I can see the only difference is it’s 130mm. It’s a subframe bolt, so will be torque to yield and have the strength characterises of the original bolt. Remove 10mm off end, clean thread, etc.

Hi might well be with doing if the pressure slows down it may well be the valve, how many miles has the car done as around that year they are famous for burning oil where they used skinny oil control rings, problem is they let oil up but also down which pressurises the sump, fingers crossed its the aftermarket valve. Steve.

I had an Island Green 1.4tdi, barely run in at 210,000 miles, 60mpg, sailed through MoT! All standard so don't fix which isn't broken. A fuel pump leak & lack of spares meant it had to go to WOMAUTOMOTIVE in Stoke-on-Trent who had a selection of donor cars. Our "Dinky Toy" is now back on the road with a new owner. My good lady wishes we still had the A2.

Hello Dillon, So that is £4,800/pa, add to that, the car’s depreciation over that year, and you really are into bonkers territory! I am ignoring any finance you may be paying, together with the annual road tax, and obviously the actual running costs of the car. Sorry to put it bluntly, but you are in extreme danger of running yourself into an economic disaster - unless your earnings are exceptionally high,or you are ‘of some means’. As Cliff says - assuming you have checked all comparison sites - you will need to seriously research vehicles with low insurance groupings, and cut your cloth to suit those vehicles. Really sorry to say it as I see it, but it’s madness to have to spend a significant amount of amount of your working time to ‘feed your current situation’. Regards, Gareth.

Pleasure James, I like your approach to keeping this car maintained as it should be, and not as VAG suggests ( explanations already given). Having said that, with delivery mileage only, personally I wouldn’t be getting the oil change done at handover, but waiting until September when it has a few miles under its belt. Regards, Gareth.

Audi’s service plans are very expensive. They are designed to appeal to new owners and usually a bolt on package that some people accept at purchase, especially when spending thousands on a car. The reality is somewhat different. Let’s break it down. The basic plan is £719 for two years. That buys you an oil service (basically oil and filter) and an inspection service (oil, air and pollen filter) every 9,300 miles. I’m sure there was a query on the site recently as it didn’t include spark plugs. Usually due at 40k miles. https://www.audi.co.uk/en/owners/service-and-maintenance/service-plans/ Main Audi dealer doesn’t not buy expertise. Like Frank, I moved away from main dealer garages probably 30 years ago. I can see past the branded coffee cups and courtesy wash and vacuum, and know that the £200+ per hour rate, a fraction will go to the technician. The rest pays for the franchise running costs, plus a healthy profit. As the car is new, then find a garage you trust, preferably Audi or VAG independent that know what they are doing. I’ve had similar experiences with BMW as my wife has a i3 REx. Great car and the support or rather lack of it from the main dealer was evident when there was an issue withe the generator engine. They failed to fix after three attempts. That was their master tech too. Spent over £1k and said never again. Bought ISTA software, so service both my wife’s car and VCDS to run my own. Not suggesting you break out the spanners. Maintain the warranty, especially if the car is is mild hybrid. That tech is increasingly complex. Anyway enjoy that new car feeling.

Good morning James I have just read your post this morning with interest and as you reside in Hampshire as do I, may I put an alternative to you regards the future servicing of your lovely new A6 ? I do understand your desire to look after your car and make sure it works well for many years. I am 78 years of age and have been fortunate enough to have been the owner of many fine cars in my long life, all purchased new. I stopped using Main Dealer servicing over 20 years ago and the reasons are that I refuse to pay the exhorbitant rates that they charge and also.....and just as importantly.... I'm not convinced that they offer the finest levels of expertise . Since 2006 I have owned 2 VW Phaetons, 1 Audi A8, and 2 Audi Q8's . At the moment I am the happy owner of an S5 Avant that I took delivery of four weeks ago. All of these cars were purchased new and I chose to not service any of them with Main Dealers. All were serviced and maintained to a very high level at The Village Garage Bishops Waltham. I like many other " petrol heads " on this website am not convinced by the long service regimes that Audi supposedly recommend. I endorse everything that Sparticus said in his reply to you. He's a good bloke and knows what he's doing ! So, all my cars that I have listed have had services and particuarly oil changes every 7/8000 miles. The Village Garage has been running for many years and has a fine reputation. The owner is a guy called Matt who is very clever and knowledgeable guy. And just as importantly he is a car guy who loves all things to do with high end expensive cars. I trust him completely in looking after my cars and being ultra careful when they are with him. He , in fact runs an Audi SQ5 as his personal car. Matt uses all Audi parts and as he is a listed Audi / Porsche/ VW/ Skoda specialist , you will not invalidate your Audi warranty by taking it there. Matt is able to log and reset your Audi service indicator. So, it's just a thought and I do hope you don't mind me throwing my 2 penneth in here. The plusses for me are that I believe that my car will be serviced and maintained at a higher level than it would be at an Audi Dealership and I save a ton of money as Matts rates are far lower than Audis. My missis and I have been touring Germany in the car twice a year for many years now. Our next trip which will be for 4 weeks and cover over 2000 miles will be in October and I will schedule my S5's first service with Matt just before we go. By then he will have done about 5000 miles so a complete oil change and an inspection to make sure all is well. Finally an added bonus is that Bishops Waltham is a lovely little town so whilst Matt is working on your car, you can have a quiet stroll and have a coffee and breakfast there. The above is just a thought.....and I dont have any shares in the Village Garage just in case you were suspicious 🙂 Frank

Annual servicing all day long, but certainly every 10k miles. Audi moved to long service regimes because they were shifting cars with finance and offered free servicing as an incentive. They also introduced it to seduce fleet dealers who hoped to reduce their running costs. The whole thing is a fallacy. The reality is no synthetic oil can retain the lubrication properties to protect an engine after 18k miles. Down the line, an unsuspecting new owner will buy an ex-fleet or leased 3-4 year old car and discover premature engine wear and pick up the bill. For all the costs of an oil filter and 5-6 litres of fresh oil, just change it. I personally do it every 5k miles, still use Castrol Edge 5w30 LL, but my 2017 plate 3.0 TDI Allroad will be my last diesel.

hi lads,yes it was me who bought the car and its now here in ireland,its an interesting car and i hope to have her up and running soon,ill keep the forum posted on the progress,Greg

Car purchased May 2025, numerous faults illuminated on dash Engine management ligh, hill hold assist. Car would only run on battery the other day until it cut out. 10 minutes standing turning off - on engine fired. Alarm goes off at random. Vehicle speeds up when in adaptive cruise when traffic is slowing. Burns excessive oil. Asked uk Audi to respond to Engine management light but they refused. Many owners with similar problems are using consumer act 2015 to return vehicles. I’ve given my formal rejection notice to reject the car.

I believe visual inspection is the best test. While a completely broken wire can be found with a continuity test, the damage can be as slight as cracked insulation that only shorts out as the wire chafes against metal during door opening.

Did you get a print out of the test results for the battery’s various perimeters, and what brand is it? Was the alternator output checked at the same time? Is the car in regular daily use, and what is its normal journey pattern? Regards, Gareth.

So mudguards fitted. I think they look good. Was easy enough and managed to do it without removing wheels. However a couple of points to note. 1: when fitting the front guards, you first have to “pop” a couple of rivets on each side (keep the top rivet in situ). This is done by pushing the centre of the rivet through with a very small screwdriver. Thanks to @Das for his help on this. However the holes left behind in the bodywork were actually too big for the screws supplied with my mudguards. Luckily I had a (very) old pack of U Clips from Halfords in my toolbox and was able to use these to make the holes more useable and the mudguards very secure. Had to drill a small hole to secure the bottom of the mudguard (small enough so the supplied screws would fit) but did this once I had fitted and secured the guards using the two screws and U Clips to the side. Turning front wheel full lock will allow enough space, at least it did with my 20inch alloys. I’m sure 21’s will also be fine. 2: Rears, whilst being able to utilise the torx screws already in place, had a lot less room to work with. I ended up using an adjustable wrench and the correct torx bit. Was a bit fiddly, but got the job done. Anyway I’m very happy with the results. May not be for everyone, but I’m happy with the less shouty “dad wagon” vibe that I’m trying achieve and the mudguards add to that I think.

It's always extremely difficult to pursuade people that a battery can be defective when it still cranks the engine normally, and has a voltage of 12.4 at rest.

No, he only looks in once or twice per year, and I suspect that is just to see if we are still alive.

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

You may be better off having the existing rack overhauled to avoid any mismatch from secondhand units. There are many companies specialising in this work to be found by an internet search.

They will quote chapter and verse and you’ll be even more confused. It’s not just the belt, it’s the bearings on the pulleys. New kit comes with tensioner pulley, etc. normal course is to replace water-pump and auxilliary belt too.

Long time since I started this thread. Thought I would provide an update with coding for anyone searching this thread. I used genuine audi parts for an A3 8y - package number 8Y0.054.634A with wiring harness 8Y0.054.733 which cost £232. It came with instructions for fitting but not coding. I put the wiring through the car following the recommended route although short cut down the boot side trim rather than take the whole side trim out but the rest was along the floor clipped to the existing wiring. No trim broken or clips. One change I made was to use the earth inside the boot lid rather than inside the car body as this also saved removing some of the trim. Gaining access to the J533 module for connections was difficult and took some time to release and wriggle out from behind the steering column. Coding using OBD11 professional Gateway 19 long coding Sdf unlock PaCo_video_parksystem change to RVC_compact_smart Multimedia Adaption: Search bap: VPS_0X0B = activate VPS_OXB_msg_bus = terminal15 Search function_configuration_unit RCV_ video_input = Ethernet Note: If purchasing a new camera as I did from audi you will need to load parameters via e-odis. Any garage with e-odis should be able to do this if you have the audi part numbers. My local independent vag garage charged £50.

Hello Steve, I think Steve Y’s idea of removing the sump first, is great. You can then remove bearing caps (keeping them in order is a must). Where bolts/ nuts can’t be refitted then put them in individual clearly marked envelopes. Also, a thanks to Kev for suggesting numerous photo sessions of what goes where. I would also suggest picking up some various colour touch ups and placing dabs on each side of any connections you disconnect. You’ll get there. Good luck, Gareth.

Hi Steve another good practice is buy a load of cheap plastic food storage containers and some sharpie permanent markers in different colours you can then label the boxes for any small electrical sensors and damp affected bits, for what its worth I would strip the bottom end first to asses the state of the crank before going any further and hopefully it will come to a light regrind and new shells and perhaps new pistons and rings. Steve.

Many thanks everyone for your input. i know that Celtic have a very good reputation, but on balance, i think it may be best to leave well alone for now. it may also be that it will be fool’s errand as in all probability the ECU is locked 😢

No specific experience of Celtic Tuning. But I see they actually advertise DPF and EGR deletions, that tells me all I need to know. I've watched my fair share of modifications and if I was going to do it - I'd search our Darkside Developments. They seem very knowledgeable technically speaking. As with all performance upgrades - it's what can the gearbox handle? I know in your case whether 30 TDI (114bhp) or 35 TDI (147bhp) if mated with an S Tronic auto box, then just keep up maintenance regime or that's an expensive fix. You'll already know on 2024 build car you'll automatically invalidate what's left of manufacturer's warranty.

Max. If you are expecting a solenoid valve on the coolant system you will be disappointed. Cabin temperature adjustment by control of coolant flow was abandoned years ago. Maybe you already know that, but I mention it just in case. Temperature regulation will be by mixing hot and cold air by means of flap valves in the air ducts. I don't know if the flaps on your car are entirely mechanical or electrically powered. Note that electric flaps are known to be prone to failure. There is also the possibility of a partial blockage of the heater matrix which can be caused by scale or by crystals of silica gel that have escaped from a bag in the coolant reservoir. (Bags of silica gel in the reservoir were installed for a few years by Audi.) I am inclined to think the latter because such crystals also prevented the thermostat from closing, which may explain why yours was missing. There are videos on Youtube explaining the silica gel problem and how to change the heater matrix if necessary.

Does the car have door open warning lights? Audi got tight with what they added and what should have been standard after 2012 or so. Front headlight washers and rear door open and puddle lights just being some of the kit they quietly dropped or if you wanted them you needed to buy a bundled package. Try https://rocketwires.co.uk/online-shop/ols/products/door-lighting for looms. I've used them and it's straight forward. That allows you to piggy-back into existing wiring. You'll need Torx screwdriver, anti-marr trim tools.

Hi absolutely sod all else, for that sort of money at an independent garage you wold get, oil/filter, pollen and air filter, what you are being charged for is some Wassoc to wander around underneath with a torch and a phone camera trying to find the smallest excuse to generate more overpriced work, when you look on this forum there are loads of people who have been told by Audi that this bush is gone that needs changing, the best one ever on another forum was your brake pads need changing because they are 50% worn, when are people going to wake up to the fact that full Audi service history is not worth a cup of cold goats urine, better an honest independent that values your custom. Steve.

To answer that specific question, there is a small possibility that the timing belt has jumped a tooth on its sprocket and the engine has stopped in time to avoid damaging any valves, so the garage is hoping that a new belt plus retiming the engine will solve the problem. In reality there is a much bigger chance that either several teeth have been jumped or the belt has broken causing valves to hit the piston crowns. As for the other comments on belt life, I too believe it was a grave mistake for Audi to change its recommendations. VAG is not alone in making this sort of mistake. Look at the problems caused by Ford and others who have changed from dry belts to wet belts in an effort to eliminate an expensive crankshaft seal.

Hi Steve,sorry for the late reply. Yesterday was crazy busy trying to sort car out but the good news is it's fixed!! I think i saw here in this topic someone saying there's only 3 sensors but in fact it's 4. The 2 on the top close to the lambda sensor and nox,one that comes straight up at the bottom(orange plug) and yesterday saw another one underneath the turbo if I'm not mistaken( black plug). Bought a new sensor(black plug) and tried it on that plug and no error whatsoever and since I had bought one a few months ago and the shape and plug being exactly the same I just used it and no errors,no lights,nothing all day!! Returned the sensor and saved £57!! Thanks for your support and replies,very much appreciated. Raul

It's unfortunate that cars with those dreadful engines are still permitted to be sold. Even worse is that the trade knows about the fault and yet conceals it from buyers. Be aware that you might have a problem at the next MOT test. All the oil the car is burning will be measured as emissions in the exhaust.

The rear end of the Q5 will take less paint than the wife 😆

Hi I have come across this problem a lot, most garages only check the soot levels, what about the ASH thats the killer as it can't be burnt off as its like carbon bricks which can only come out the way it went in so therefore your OBD reader was bang on with the high sevens, that was the ASH, I had this when I worked on a Q3 recently soot was fine up to a point but the ash was at 55%, had the DPF professionally cleaned [off car] reinstalled it with a new MAF/MAP and DPF Pressure sensor and EGT, now been perfect for the last couple of months, soot calculated never more than 20g, soot measured after a regen -4g and ash at 1.8g. All good for another 140k. Steve.

Broken wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame are a common cause of this problem.

I do hope so.

99% certain you have the 7-speed s-tronic gearbox, the 8-speed tiptronic was used in the SQ5 QUR is your gearbox code CTBA is your engine code LZ7G is your paint code N5W FZ is your interior type and colour codes All the other codes relate to your factory build spec and can be decoded at sites like - https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/

Under the circumstances, £180 is okay. To be honest, the oil service should have been done prior to road trip racking up miles.

Can’t see 2017 model, so have chosen 2018. You can double check yourself on LLL Parts. Wing without ancillaries to fit, primed £1,481. Bumper cover, primed £1,676, however there are multiple components that attach, parking sensors, front grill, spoiler, headlight washers, fitting kit, then you have bumper carrier behind it, etc. If the bumper had carbon sections, then you’re into a grand for each section. Some of it may be transferable from the old bumper if intact. Headlight, LED Matrix, £2,183 as an example. Paint, labour and VAT. You can see how it adds up.