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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

My settings are already on the least sensitive. Still happens. Doesn’t real worry me though. I’m keeping it into its fourth year now as I quite like it and nothing within a reasonable price that is compatible came up. I’ve got exactly 12 months to plan what’s next…

those error messages are in fact a frequent thing and it comes down to the sensitivity of your settings (radar, collision assist etc). You can adjust your settings to pick up far less in the realms or items vs distance but not recommended. FYI the car records loss of vision or detection as faults and stay logged until removed. I recently had Audi assist come out for something else related I had 136 codes stored and following that CAM bus errors because of how many were stored. I was politely reminded that these issues have become a common issue causing modules to slow down or self fault due to bus memory being clogged with error codes. from time to time it’s recommended to review and clear. Ideally around service intervals. You’d think your main dealer would do this as part of their service but they don’t and leave them…

Finally this issue has been explained in a simple manner. I've been chasing a leak in my GTI with the same engine and haven't found anyone explain it the way you did. Thanks for this and I did subscribe and like this! Thanks man, take care Kodi

Hello Mick, Thanks for joining, but without being dismissive, you really should entrust this issue to your supplying dealer. You will have/will be paying a lot of funds for this new vehicle, and you really should not be expected to trouble-shoot issues with it. Have you contacted them? Kind regards, Gareth.

Further update on the 7 Speed S-Tronic DL-501 issue ...... I haven't been able to get the adaption re-done yet after the full gearbox and both filters service as Matt with VCDS has been incredibly busy with his day job, but the one thing I will say after using the car for a few weeks now is it is incredibly smoother than it was before the service and the first VCDS mild adaption, no longer does it thump from second to first and even in reverse there seems to be a definite difference in the take up of the gear, especially on a slope, something it didn't like doing at all before the service, I am genuinely surprised how fresh filters and proper manufacturer recommended "MEYLE" DSG OIL can make that much of a difference, I haven't taken it on a long run yet and got everything in the gearbox up to a constant temperature and speed but around town driving is noticeably much smoother. As it started to fail on me and throw the dreaded yellow warning light on the dash after long motorway cruising I don't want to count my chickens too soon, but I'm hopeful that with a final and Full VCDS Gears Adaption my problem may well be pretty much sorted, as usual will keep posting updates for other members ......... 🤔

Sounds like a longer term good move Fi. Could I reinforce the procedure I go through before viewing:- Check the on-line MOT history. Check the DVLA vehicle check to see when the latest V5 was issued. Can give you some idea of last change of owner. Ask the seller to e-mail copy of the Audi on-line service history and/or any servicing receipts. If you have opposition in any respect - start twitching! At the same time as requesting this off the seller, ask your local dealer if they would outline ( and ideally provide copy) the service record they have on the Audi system. All this can be done from the comfort of your arm chair, and will form the backbone of sound research before you decide to view. Good luck with your quest, and please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Hi guys, first time here, just seeing if anyone was interested in my FiL’s A4. He’s lovingly looked after it from new, first registered in September 2000, stacks of paperwork and only 94,000 miles. He’s only selling as has finally taken the plunge and bought a new Q2 (at age 83!) so this is no boy racer car. Rare-ish 2.4 petrol, runs well, tax to September, MOT until July. Bad points - slight scuff to front wing, little bit of bubbling on roof, but nothing you’d not expect for a 24-year-old car. Garaged every day, and Audi of course offered peanuts for it. Tbh he’d rather see it go to a good home. Currently located in Redcar. Please inbox with any questions, I’ve tried to be honest but I’m not a specialist so please let me know if I can help. Cheers.

Hi everyone I'm new here and already had some great help from members, read loads of useful stuff, I've personally imported a 8p s3 in yellow for my wife from Japan it's not our first import I buy all our cars from Japan. I will try to add a couple of photos soon

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have. Steve.

Will do me for now.

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

Thanks Gareth

Heres how I did mine on my previous car. The sensor was just over a tenner on eBay. You’ll need to scroll about halfway down the page when it opens. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/project-audi.348112/page-9

Yes history looks all ok just looking for a car that looks the part, goes, peanuts on tax and way less fuel cost compared to my 3.0L Discovery 4.

Software version is 3620 MMI software version is release-35.12-2126-SNAPSHOT-28.06.2021-13:58:42 Navigation database is V03959822FK_P1140_EU_2024.03 Since having it updated I now have Android Auto wirelessly which I didn't before (had to connect a cable) Hope this helps !

Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican

Hi Dan. I would think paint would last that long being bombarded by grit off the road. But, you can buy a proper black surround and grill for the A3 from E Bay for £120. Tony

Check to see if the Cambelt and water pump have been changed. Also if it's an auto make sure the gearbox has had services on time. This also goes for the quattro system if it has it. Make sure all electronic items work Especially the mmi and air conditioning etc. Major parts that can fail are dpf, egr or turbo all of which could be £1k bill each. Also check YouTube videos for buyers guides.

Hi try eBay or put in a request in breaker link.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

Hi mate. Unfortunately (or fortunately) for me it was one of those issues that just went away itself so not quite sure what the issue was….

On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.

And no vibration at the steering wheel or pedals? In that case I would look to the rear tyres being damaged or out of balance as the most likely candidate. That does not rule out other possibilities such as worn wheel bearings, loose wheel nuts, warped brake discs but they wou;d cause symptoms that you have not mentioned.

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?