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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Good Morning Mick. Gareth is definitely right. We both paid Audi an armful of money for these GT's. So they should look after their product. However, I found that when mine was new you had to be sure that the charge plug was fully home in the socket and that there was no tension on the charge cable. I have had mine nearly a year now and the charge port and plug fit nice and smoothly. Tony

Hi Joss, You went large with the 550! The Audi is a really nice car, but its main advantages are being younger, less miles, less tatty and better maintained than the E61 - which I couldn't justify spending money on towards the end. Although the BMW had more BHP (when it was new) than the Audi, the supercharger + quattro means the acceleration is certainly quicker with the 3.0. In my reality, that's better than the silky smooth 100mph+ cruising that the V8 was clearly capable of, because I live nowhere near an Autobahn. It's hard to beat the E61 for space, comfort, handling and looks that really aged well (do you remember how controversial the Chris Bangle styling was when they first came out?). Comparisons on fuel economy are striking, but boring. Even the standard MMI amps/speakers in the Audi are a big improvement of the BMW (standard) audio - and the Audi has Bluetooth/Aux. I was using a cigarette-lighter FM transmitter in the BMW! I decided to wait until my insurance came up for renewal to see what the bump would be for declaring the chip tuning as a modification. Although I must say that, after over a thousand very pleasurable miles, I've been chasing an overheating issue in the Audi for the last few days (thermostat and/or poor seal from cheap after-market expansion tank cap I think). So I'm giving more consideration to reliability and being gentle to the car alongside the previous thought of "seems a bit silly not to unlock an extra 100 bhp for a few hundred quid! " as you eloquently put it! Thanks for the conversation and I'll check out Phantom Tuning. Cheers

Further update on the 7 Speed S-Tronic DL-501 issue ...... I haven't been able to get the adaption re-done yet after the full gearbox and both filters service as Matt with VCDS has been incredibly busy with his day job, but the one thing I will say after using the car for a few weeks now is it is incredibly smoother than it was before the service and the first VCDS mild adaption, no longer does it thump from second to first and even in reverse there seems to be a definite difference in the take up of the gear, especially on a slope, something it didn't like doing at all before the service, I am genuinely surprised how fresh filters and proper manufacturer recommended "MEYLE" DSG OIL can make that much of a difference, I haven't taken it on a long run yet and got everything in the gearbox up to a constant temperature and speed but around town driving is noticeably much smoother. As it started to fail on me and throw the dreaded yellow warning light on the dash after long motorway cruising I don't want to count my chickens too soon, but I'm hopeful that with a final and Full VCDS Gears Adaption my problem may well be pretty much sorted, as usual will keep posting updates for other members ......... 🤔

Thanks for the links Kev. Annoyingly last week I discovered from my mechanic that if I buy any 2.5tdi engine and keep my current injection pump and ECU the car will think the replacement engine is the original and will run. Wish I'd known that a year ago instead of worrying about coding of injection pumps and imobilisers etc. So my simplest option is to find a bau version of the 2.5tdi as this was the last variation of that engine and most refined in theory. Trying to find one with low miles and proven service history, but naturally this is proving difficult.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi lot of common sense on that statement, that’s what I was planning to do myself ,Audi dealership what a letdown 1 st time buying from them my 1 Audi was back in 80 s Audi 80 cd thanks for thoughts regards AR

Had the same problem, Audi replaced lock system, A4K2 837 016 H …. Audi part

Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.

Oil level sensor Paul?

Will do me for now.

remapping with adblue delete should help,

i bought this car yesterday It’s back on the road and being used as intended

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Thanks Gareth

I have a fix. I also own a mk2 Golf and I spotted a detail on the gas peddle cable that is the same for adjustment, at the end there is a castellated section with a clip on it for tension, I added a couple of castellations to the tension and I now have 1k solid tickover. 😁 The clip sinks into the rubber grommet, lowering the tension over time. 😎

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

Called garage and asked they are happy taking my car and waiting for the new V5. So happy days. Thanks bud.

Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋

Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican

Welcome, and thanks for joining Michael. I’ve always used VAG’s brand - Quantum - and see no reason to try anything else. Check that the grade required is 5w/30. I always buy from reputable sellers on EBay, and order the Longlife 3. Would suggest using Mann or similar (German branded) filters, and yes, I would change every two years. I cover about the same mileage in a non- Audi, used only for summer months, and that is my regime for that car. Kind regards, Gareth.

going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work

It'll definitely need to be coded.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Hello Thomas, I guess you have a conventional manual handbrake, by the year of the car. Assuming the pads and calipers are in a serviceable condition, then it maybe wise to totally slacken handbrake adjustment to a point where the cables can be disconnected at both wheels. You can then sharply apply the footbrake and ensure both rear wheels lock up properly and then fully release properly. It would be great if your friendly MOT station could retest the rear brake efficiency and balance to ensure they are working properly - oops, just realised Ireland - so Government testing?? Once you have established correctly working rear wheel braking , you can then tackle the handbrake cable efficiency. Do both cables pull and release properly? Renew if any doubt. Your A4 may have the same set up as the similar year A3, whereby the cables pass through aluminium guide tubes, and they can stick within these tubes. New tubes will be necessary and I think these are main dealer parts only. Liberal application of WD40 may assist handbrake cable action and removal of tubes if necessary. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?