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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Hello Christian, I’ve declined to comment until now, but I too find room for concerns with your overall maste (sic) plan. I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, but doesn’t this boil down to ‘ …. give me your details and I will then reveal my Master Plan! Being realistic about it, I think it’s highly unlikely that many members will have a contra view to that already expressed by Alpha Omega, and will feel - rightly or wrongly - that they are leaving themselves too wide open to the potential of being spammed. In an attempt to minimise that risk, perhaps you could let us have some detail of your background Christian, and successes you have had with other forums you have approached to date. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Steve, thats not cynicism its a lifetimes worth of trying not to be had over and as with all of us we fail occasionally, good spot with the email part, this gentleman wont give a deposition of what his precise plans are or what is the product he intends to market, I like you am beginning to smell something that is hidden under a ton of sandbagging prose which never realises any tangible conclusion, no need to reply if this isn't good for you ,the question remains, what isn't good. Steve.

Hi Stephen (Alpha Omega), No worries, we need a few sinics dotted about! I don't understand how your email was on any page (what page specifically?) without you putting it in, I can't imagine the Google form pre-populates, maybe it does. No need to reply if this isn't for you, all good. Christian

If you read the posts on any given day both current and historical you will soon see the main types of problems that the forum deals with service history enquiries are rare, mostly a lot of people who have bought cars with some sort of history and then found the car has been remapped, quite a popular way of buggering up a good car apparently, so the forum gradually unravels it possibly gets the truth out of the poster and proceeds from there, it may well be beneficial if you clarified what your master plan is and quantified its specific aims not unlike a paper service history. Steve.

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Welcome Alberto, Are you saying you and/or your son are capable of safely renewing brake pads? It seems you have already bought replacement pads. Since the seller seems disinterested in sorting it out, why not carry out your own assessment of the remaining brake pad thickness, and simply renew them - since you have them. Worse possible case:- brake pad wear light remains on after you have done that -? Worry about sorting that out when you get to that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi have replaced the drivers door latch under warranty part no. A4K2 837 016 H the car still at Audi checking hand brake .

Oil level sensor Paul?

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

New here, never owned an Audi until now heres a wee pic

Good Morning I have a partition net/dog guard ( part number 4G9 861 691 94 H) suitable for A6 Avant. Free of Charge if anybody would like it. Also I have an Autochair mobility scooter hoist for the A6 Avant. Cost £1400 also free of charge, this comes with modified rear boot screen and side panel, to anybody who needs it. Tony

Called garage and asked they are happy taking my car and waiting for the new V5. So happy days. Thanks bud.

The low oil consumption suggests the engine is in reasonable condition for its age, and in standard form would likely not have high CO emissions. Therefore I'd say your modifications are responsible for the problem, and the solution is to restore the engine to standard form.

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

Thanks Les -? Saying it as it is, the only clue you give us is that it’s a stop/start battery, and regrettably you have chosen/can’t be bothered to, either give your name, model of car or your location. As one of the other moderators often says ‘ we are a friendly and helpful group’, and indeed we are, but….. help yourself to gain the help you need! Rant over, except a please or thank you wouldn’t’ go amiss. Answer - almost certainly yes.

Hi its the thermostat on the water pump that controls the engine temp the other one before the the heater is the one that controls the cabin temp, if that one is playing about all your hot water flies through the bypass system. Steve.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

Welcome Isaac, and thanks for joining. Are the working and non working front and rear brakes diagonally opposite? If so, could be associated with ABS-? ‘…help a brother out….’ Masonic? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks yes, saw that thread. It seems a common issue with the C7, they like to let water in as much as possible. Further investigation this evening and I narrowed down the leak. See the picture attached, but the leak is coming through a seam in the side wall. Circled the area in red. I have sealed this area with Gorilla waterproof patch & seal tape. I removed the Voltage stabiliser unit to dry it out, and also moved the wiring loom for the Voltage Stabiliser unit up and back out of the spare wheel well up into the area where the main fuse board unit is. I hope that these two actions will cure the problem.

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.

I now have an update from Audi UK and my response is below, by way of an update: Dear Mr Hayward I hope all is well? Thank you for your email. Thank you for sharing the experiences of other Audi owners and taking time to review this in your own time. While I fully appreciate your experience, I am unable to predict future faults of the car. I would like to assure you that we have fully taken on board your comments and viewpoints regarding your most recent experience. Please rest assured, your thoughts and suggestions will be fed back to our design team regarding the alert messages on the dashboard. Often changes are made off the back of customer comment and feedback. While we are unable to change what has happened, we can definitely restore your faith by offering a gesture to recognise your experience. Therefore, please can you advise what we can do for you? Please note, any escalations to Audi Germany will be redirected back to the UK team, i.e the Executive Office as your vehicle is UK registered, therefore will faull under our jurisdiction. I await your response. Dear Feranza, Thank you for your response but I am still not getting a straight answer. Firstly, I do not know if there is a misunderstanding but I am not expecting you to predict future faults in my car. I accept faults and components fail from time to time. My whole argument is the lack of warning from the vehicle to the driver. My question remains unanswered ‘ Why does Audi think it unnecessary to provide a ‘no charge’ indication? You indicate that Audi UK have taken on board my comments and suggestions but the car is designed in Germany. Can you tell me if Markus Duesmann is still with the Group or has Gernot Dollner taken his place ? Have my comments been sent to either of these two gentlemen? From what I understand there maybe up to 50,000 vehicle in the UK which could suffer similar faults. If this is the case what is the Board of Management responsible for Technical Development and Product Lines in Audi AG doing about it, or going to do about it? You tell me that even if I write to the Board of Management my communication will come back to Audi UK, because my vehicle is UK registered. However these faults are appearing in Audis all over the world which were designed in Germany. Until I have a positive response that Audi AG know about this and are taking positive action I consider that direct communication with Audi AG is the only way of obtaining straight answers. Thank you for continuing to ask me what financial gesture would placate me, however that is secondary to obtaining a positive answer that AUDI AG are developing a fix which will be available within a reasonable timescale. In the meantime it would be appreciated if you could provide me with the email address for the PA of the person who now has Board responsibility.

Hell Kendal Steve, The two stumbling blocks here, are surface cleanliness of the mating surfaces, and the ‘quality’ of the adhesive to use. The likelihood is that you won’t be able to buy an economical small quality of the necessary professional adhesive, and any attempt to use a sub standard product will result in an almost impossible situation to retrieve. If this were mine, I would be searching for Classic Car Trimmers in the area, and seeking advice there. We all like to DIY things, but I fear this is one job where specialist materials will be required. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, I think they are probably cornering lights. I'll check later and let you know. Bryan.

Could be the ECU and the only way you'll know is sending it off for repair. You might be able to buy a second hand one from eBay but it must be the exact same part number. Then the imobiliser will need to be removed from it or recoded to work for your car.

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC