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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Finally this issue has been explained in a simple manner. I've been chasing a leak in my GTI with the same engine and haven't found anyone explain it the way you did. Thanks for this and I did subscribe and like this! Thanks man, take care Kodi

Thanks for the links Kev. Annoyingly last week I discovered from my mechanic that if I buy any 2.5tdi engine and keep my current injection pump and ECU the car will think the replacement engine is the original and will run. Wish I'd known that a year ago instead of worrying about coding of injection pumps and imobilisers etc. So my simplest option is to find a bau version of the 2.5tdi as this was the last variation of that engine and most refined in theory. Trying to find one with low miles and proven service history, but naturally this is proving difficult.

Pic 1 for sure

Thinking of selling my 1990 Coupe E, looking for some guidance on value if possible. 180k miles, starts and runs fine, been sat in garage for several years, original wheels, manual replaced gearbox. Tired interior and age related scratches on body but solid, no rust.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Sounds like a longer term good move Fi. Could I reinforce the procedure I go through before viewing:- Check the on-line MOT history. Check the DVLA vehicle check to see when the latest V5 was issued. Can give you some idea of last change of owner. Ask the seller to e-mail copy of the Audi on-line service history and/or any servicing receipts. If you have opposition in any respect - start twitching! At the same time as requesting this off the seller, ask your local dealer if they would outline ( and ideally provide copy) the service record they have on the Audi system. All this can be done from the comfort of your arm chair, and will form the backbone of sound research before you decide to view. Good luck with your quest, and please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Can any Q7 members respond to Natasha’s request. How long have you owned yours Natasha, how many miles has it done, and how much oil does it consume in x miles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 air suspension problems are well documented and can be costly to repair

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Hi lot of common sense on that statement, that’s what I was planning to do myself ,Audi dealership what a letdown 1 st time buying from them my 1 Audi was back in 80 s Audi 80 cd thanks for thoughts regards AR

Welcome Alberto, Are you saying you and/or your son are capable of safely renewing brake pads? It seems you have already bought replacement pads. Since the seller seems disinterested in sorting it out, why not carry out your own assessment of the remaining brake pad thickness, and simply renew them - since you have them. Worse possible case:- brake pad wear light remains on after you have done that -? Worry about sorting that out when you get to that point. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Had the same problem, Audi replaced lock system, A4K2 837 016 H …. Audi part

NICE B5 BUD

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Audi Coventry run the diagnostics and found no faults. So I went to Rugby services to try their 350kwh charger... and it charged perfectly. Then I realised that the charger cable was on the right and plugged easily into the DC charging port on the right (drivers) side of my etron as I had entered the bay nose first. I recall the chargers that had been problematic at Woolley Edge and Wetherby had cables on the left side and it was quite a stretch to drag them across the bonnet to plug in as they wanted to retract. So I surmise that was the issue i.e. the charging cable was not properly seated. Next time I will reverse in if I use these chargers.

i bought this car yesterday It’s back on the road and being used as intended

Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.

Hi Gareth nothing wrong with ancient , look at us we are still functioning, don't knock it. Steve.

Well I'd like to say the oil that came out of the gearbox was a golden dark brown, but in reality almost black, so definitely needed doing, but nothing untoward on the magnets and filters were slightly dirty as to be expected, but not all clogged up or mishapen. The complete MEYLE service kit may be a little more expensive than others, but is has literally everything you need, right down to rubber O rings and copper washers, new bolts, 2 x filter housings, perfectly fitting metal gasket with locating lugs same as factory spec, and of course 7 litres of OE spec oil. Just awaiting a slot to get the VCDS adaption done again, don't think its going to cure my problem to be honest, if the gearbox could speak it would mock me with words such as " So you think you can throw a couple of hundred pounds at me and I'm going to perform for you .... Come back when you have a couple of thousand" 😣 To be continued .............

Hello R? Certainly +1 for Steve’s recommendation. Why is everyone still hell bent on using ECP despite having virtually discontinued -? their high % discounts on their ‘Retail price’, which generally ended up with the buyer paying more than they would have paid elsewhere? Another tip - but keep it to yourself!! - PinM often have a % discounts at the end of the month. I too have had superb service from them, and they are always my first port of call for any parts I need. Incase it helps, a family member is now ‘experimenting’ with Brembo following disappointment with genuine JLR parts - so far, Brembo are proving to be more efficient and longer lasting. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Why not fill in your name R, and your location - big place is England! We don’t bite on here, we just hope to come over as being helpful.

Check to see if the Cambelt and water pump have been changed. Also if it's an auto make sure the gearbox has had services on time. This also goes for the quattro system if it has it. Make sure all electronic items work Especially the mmi and air conditioning etc. Major parts that can fail are dpf, egr or turbo all of which could be £1k bill each. Also check YouTube videos for buyers guides.

going to be a few weeks, as a fw bits to do for work

My local Audi is in Worthing (Roundstone). Tell your Audi Service Dept that Audi have issued a bulletin (March 2024) regarding this fault and that it has nothing to do with the stop/start generator. If they find nothing then ask them to get in touch with Audi Worthing for details. The cost of the repair (parts/labour/VAT) was around £200. Hope this is the "fix" for your fault.

In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.

Update - solved the issue. Upon reading other threads I checked the ABS wheels speed sensors on all 4 corners. The front passengers side sensor was damaged. A break in the sensor case was letting water into it. I’ve replaced the sensor and the faults have all gone away. It was a bit of a pig to change as it’d melted into the bearing housing. Quite a coincidence that the wheel bearing was changed by the garage a few weeks before all these faults started appearing.

Thank you 😊 lol, well I'm hoping I'll be able to get it back on the road asap as I want to bring my daughter along to the shows. Oh bless ya, hope you get better soon. Definitely, wife and I have been wanting children for the last 7 years.

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?