56Doc

Does anyone know where to get hold of wiring diagrams for the 2011-2018 model? Cheers Dave F

Hi folks, Im sure I’ve seen a post or 2 about the fact that Audi deleted the oil dipstick from many models and identifying the relevant part numbers but I can’t find it now. I don’t trust the MMI as it only shows a max level but doesn’t give any clue as to whether it’s at the max level or above it, and if above it, by how much. every engineer and technician appreciates the damage possibilities of overfilling anything with its lub oil, so I’d really like to find the right dipstick. The tube is there, it’s just plugged, so it’s an easy install. I think I saw this part No. on another site ( 059115611AM) Not sure if it’s the right number but I’ve ordered one from LLLParts for £12. Figured that it was worth the gamble! Any other advice, or where the other posts are on here will be gratefully received. Cheers Dave F

Hi Lee, which tuner did you use? I’m looking to get an ‘efficiency’ remap on my 2015 3.0 tdi allroad (218 bhp) once the warranty expires. I had one done to a Saab 9-5 2.3 HOT, which improved everything quite remarkably, (much better throttle response when needed and about 3-4 mpg improvement when M’way cruising). Kind Regards Dave F

Apparently it could also be turbo oil seals too!

Stevespdo, Did you try those part numbers? I’ve got a 2015 3.0tdi Allroad with the same issue, all I know is that the sensor is showing ‘Max’ and that oil is getting into the intake system, (which can be a symptom of overfilling and/or a blocked breather) what I don’t know is if it’s above ‘Max’ and if so, by how much.

Has anyone ever done this to a car that has neither as standard? im assuming that apart from the seats, new seat to climate control unit wiring looms and a new climate control unit are needed. But, would I also need to pick up a new high ampage supply for the heating and then get the climate unit coded to the car? I’m also assuming that the heating and ventilation control units are in the seats, so no extra bits? Im a retired engineer and I’ve done similar jobs before, so not daunted by anything apart from the coding bit. cheers all Dave

🤣

Thanks, operator error then😏

I don’t seem able to get my 2015 Allroad to drop to the lowest setting (one bar when in ‘Allroad’ mode), it goes down to 2 bars, then only shows ‘raise’ on the function buttons. is this a fault? Or simply ‘operator error’? Any thoughts cheers folks Dave

This might help locate relay & fuse:- Fuse/relay panel diagrams and key. https://fuseandrelay.com/audi/allroad.html

Hi folks, I have a set of 4 x 17” twin spoke Alloys available, all good, straight, no welds etc otherwise I’d just scrap them, no major damage, (few scratches on all and one small scrape on one). I’d had them refurbished then swapped to 18” after about a year. Had them sitting around for ages now so free to anyone who wants them. also got an Allroad air suspension pump and refurb kit, again free to collector. Im in W-s-M near Bristol,

Found this on another Audi site:- just got the car back from the dealer. After lots of investigation and 1.5hrs shop rate, it turns out there is a 40 amp fuse under the hood behind a relay box The fuse protects the compressor motor. It took a few calls with Audi dealer tech support for the mechanic to find the fuse. Apparently when the old compressor prssure switch failed, and the pump ran without kicking off due to over temp, the fuse blew???

I had this model Allroad many years ago (10 or so). I think! That the relay sits in the fuse panel behind the drivers side dash, up behind the steering wheel, there’s also a 40A fuse that they recommend changing, the wiring diagram should show that. (Haynes?) But I’d try asking an VW or Audi dealer (you might have to go in, they’ve told me before that they won’t answer technical queries over the phone, something to do with legal liability if you then get hurt or damage the car!) Or, best option, find a non franchised specialist. I’ll check but don’t think I have the Haynes manual any more. good luck Dave

As shown in the videos, the drain grommet was blocked by debris, so it’s not a bad design creating a ‘water trap’ but rather very poor or zero maintenance in that the drain grommets are never cleaned out so just block over time. most cars have similar problems if the drains are never cleaned out. sunroof drains are a classic for blocking. Peugeot 405/406 were plagued by that. Curtain rod to ‘push thru’ every couple of months kept them clear. the old A6 C5 version had a drain under the battery tray, so it was a monthly job to lift the battery and flush it out. The sunroof would flood the passenger footwell if the drains blocked. It’s something that’s never mentioned in either owners manuals or service schedules. As an engineer I consider it a procedural failure on the manufacturers part to not be stating the need to check all the drains are clear at the annual inspection/service they all insist on. But it would be nice to know where they all are!

Hi folks, After advice on the Q7 E-Tron Diesel engine: I was chatting in the garage the other day about possible replacements for my current car (Mercedes estate) and mentioned I was looking at a Q7 E-Tron diesel/electric PHEV. They (the garage owner), said the engines were very unreliable, swirl vane issues amongst them. Have any Q7 E-Tron owners on here had any engine related problems? If so, what sort. cheers folks. Dave

Try this website to figure out what wheels and tyres will fit. https://www.oponeo.co.uk/advice-and-tips/tyre-size-calculator

Found a few bits buried in the garage - I have a new Audi rear wiper motor, bought for a 2004 A6 C5 but I know it fits multiple Audi’s, A3, A4 and A6 at least. Im after £20, as these are on sale for £35 up and up. I think £20 is very fair. Can check postage costs if needed, otherwise its available for collection from WsM (J21 - M5). cheers Dave

I have a used air suspension pump from a 2004 4.2 allroad that I Sold a while back.(tried tidying the garage and came across a few bits!). It needs the refurb kit fitting which would come with it. I just never got around to fitting it. Open to offers for it. As it’s quite heavy, it woul prob cost a fair bit to post, otherwise its available for collection from WsM (J21 - M5). if needed I can check postage cost. cheers Dave

It’s compulsory over there I think. Oct to March.

Just a thought but if this is your long term car, would a later engine go in? 2.7 or even a 3.0. The 2.7 replaced the 2.5 so might be fairly straight forward.

Just looked at a few online, onlinecarparts.co.uk have these pumps for £925, any garage should be able to tell how long/ how much to fit. But another £1000 seems seriously OTT.

Really sorry to hear that, that’s rotten. Is there a non franchised diesel or Audi specialist anywhere near you? I know Audi’s prices are ridiculous. My suspension pump went, Audi wanted £1500 to change it, quoting £1100 for the pump. I bought a new one from the manufacturer in the US for £300 and it took an hour in a garage to fit it. what. About a full recon engine?

Jon, did you get your suspension issue sorted?

Hmm, schoolboy error, sorry, just re-read yr post, sounds like an injector not working properly, enough that it doesn’t show as faulty but not well enough to squirt enough petrol. Possibly more than one injector? petrol can gum up injectors over time, which really messes up the spray and droplet patterns ( big drops don’t burn as well as small ones - less total surface area) and amount of fuel let thru on each injector cycle. Hope this all helps but please Keep us updated won’t you. Cheers Dave

I ran an allroad V8 on lpg, used to ‘lean mixture’ and ‘misfire’ faults coming up fairly randomly, eventually worked out that these would show up after shorter runs where the engine didn’t reach full temp but it was warm enough to switch to lpg. Seems until the engine is at full normal temp, it can cause this sort of problem, especially if I floored it to overtake, seems the lpg and cooler engine caused a slight misfire which then triggers the fault codes. letting the engine get fully warm and using a very, very slight slowing of throttle movement ( ie; no stamping on the throttle to get it to kick down earlier) stopped it. More of a driving style and limitation of the lpg fuel. (It’s much higher octane than petrol, so ideally you need to advance the timing a lot for best lpg efficiency but most engine ecu’s can’t accomodate that, nor can most lpg ecu’s. Im assuming that it only does it when you run it on petrol and lpg, ie; it’s fine on just petrol? Dave