Stevey Y

Hi probably something failed in the dash pod, only way round is whip it out and send it off for repair.

Hi I think it will be a case of recoding the new air bags in the new seats from experience a lot of times the airbag control module wont recognise the new bags a way of testing this is to plug the old seats in again and see if the light goes out, I have in the past had to strip seats and put in the old units in the new seats, the resistors wont work because the air bags in the new seats have not gone and are not replying the correct code back to the module, it may well have been better to have just had the worn patches repaired on the old seats. Steve.

Hi may well be a dash pod resistor problem the only way to check is perform a diagnostic scan and see if it throws a code, if it is the dash pod you will have to send it away for testing, guessing on the age of the vehicle it may be something as simple as a dry solder joint. Steve.

Hi have changed the battery?, other than that you have a bad pulse wire in the rubber boot between the door and the body. Steve.

Hi for your ignition controlled wire find a fuse thats 10 amps or under the 5 amp auxiliary heater fuse is a good one if its fitted, don't use any 10 amp fuse that guard anything like wipers or electric steering and make sure the piggy back spur has the camera fuse, two and a half amp in the top position, trying to find a permanent live is a nightmare so you may have to resort to running a permanent live from the battery with a fused link and routing it through one of the rubber loom boots on the bulkhead to get the wire into the cabin. Steve

Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal. Steve.

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer. Steve.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Hi which brand of brake fluid was used when it was changed I have found that you can't just use any DOT4 as this caused quite a few component failures on my car until I settled on Comma ESP4 this is as close as you get to OE without the price tag, even the garage I use has started using what they call the expensive stuff as 2ltres is about the same as what they would have paid for a gallon of the trade stuff, all brake fluid is hydroscopic, [absorbs water] but having done some research it seems the cheaper fluids absorb water faster and the majority of modern car breaking systems rely on fluid viscosity, worth a try?. PS you can't cause damage over filling a brake reservoir. Steve.

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Hi Rob, yes its the cover thats behind the mirror if you pull it off its under there its attached to the screen by some sort of metal spring holder it also acts as a humidity sensor for the climate control the other problem sensor is the fresh air one which hangs inside the air intake box under the front scuttle where the window wiper is front left as you sit in car, I just used to clean that in alcohol and it would start working again. Steve.

Hi Rob I had the same issue with my A6 when I first got it it turned out to be the sensor under the cowling under the mirror, apparently its a common problem, its a bit of a faff to get to but doable its just a plastic disc with wires. Steve.

Hi Steve that looks the better option, ask for a comprehensive list of what's been refurbished, yes its a lot more money but it will at least give you a solid platform to build on. Steve.

Hi either the oil pressure switch or the bulb in the dash pod otherwise it would seize up in short order. Steve.

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Hi the horizontal lines I would say are honing marks [normal] the vertical marks are not and a sign of oil starvation or cracked piston rings. Steve.

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Hi Steve your mechanic is correct, due to Audis practise of using the same engine but putting different emissions gear on them and giving the engine a different designation you are almost certain to be successful as the basic block will be the same as will the heads, if you look at the engines for my A6 CNHA most of the parts were common to the DETA,DDDA,same engine different horsepower which is controlled by the ECU, ergo unless the engine has a mind of its own it will wait for the ECU to tell it what to do. Steve.

Hi I would get it scanned for fault codes, it may be an immobiliser problem. Steve.

Hi sorry to hear of your woes, I would definitely look at OBD eleven it will give you better scope to at least identify your problems and as code readers go its cheap. Steve.

Hi yes it can be done with VCDS you have to go into basic settings and scroll through the menu it will have a box for re adaptation for your sensor, might be nice if you can tell us which one was changed?

Hi I am thinking water has ingress under the antenna on the roof as for the fault codes for the rest of the car most of these are better read by VCDS, obd eleven or similar, Steve

Hi it means in simple terms re adapt this is the process of telling the ECU that it has a new sensor that will read differently from the old one, therefore the term re learning its values therefore giving the ECU the correct information within its operating strategy.