Stevey Y

Hi the machine does indeed check for leaks via pressure But my A6 showed no leaks but at six weeks after it was done I was only getting cool air not cold so I dye tested the radiator and sure enough there was a tiny weep in the top right corner which was letting out very slowly so I had to replace the rad which was about £110 that cured it, if you look at the way the system is designed its a closed circuit therefore no gas should escape it only deteriorates after time and become weaker and wont do what it is supposed to because its full of contaminants, if you get it checked and there is no gas you have a leak, as for it running the pump all the time these systems activate via the relay which is why I suggested that, could be if the pressure sensor is feeling not enough gas pressure it is throwing it on to drive. Steve.

Hi just look at the new part and see where the lugs clip in, offer it up to the bumper and press in. Steve.

Hi on the plastic lugs that are sticking out at the bottom of the bumper? Steve.

Even the cheapest version of OBDEleven will allow you to do this, what price having your own decent code reader?, about £100 apparently, Steve.

Hi never been a fan of auto boxes, I have been told numerous times by my fellow cabbies that I dont know what I am missing, my manual had done over 270k and apart from a couple of oil changes was fine, if it is the Mechatronic unit and you need to replace it you will have to get exactly the same part number as you have already as they fitted about nine different types to these boxes, but there are companies that will refurb your own unit cheaply and guarantee the repair, the main cause of most failures are the raft of cheap badge engineered filters from Eastern Europe, they collapse early on in their service life and let all the cr@p into the valve blocks. Steve.

Hi if the clutch is engaged all the time it is probably a relay fault, if you have had it recharged properly you most likely have a pin hole in the condenser unit or the radiator. Steve.

Hi anything to do with master/slave cylinders the only choices are Sachs/LUK the right brake fluid is a must and the only oe equivalent is Comma ESP 4 which is a lot cheaper than Audi and wont rot the seals, no markings would suggest aftermarket as both the Sachs/LUK have there names on the castings. Steve.

Hi could be the Mechatronics unit playing up, get the car scanned. Steve.

Hi EGT sensors are very sensitive but the only way is to check their temp figures whilst running, chances are if you have a fair amount of milage and age they are all pretty weak, often asked how long an EGT lasts?, how long is a piece of string, just keep your mind focused on the real time readings on each sensor that will give you the answer. Steve.

Hi it is not your driving style, its a future fault the car had when it rolled off the line, my money is on the code being P2002 low pressure EGR cooler blocked this is described as DPF bank 1 particle filter below threshold, you do not need a new DPF just the cooler and its valve, as for remaps an elder statesman of this forum said we have more remaps on this forum than the ordinance survey, they are never any good. Steve.

Hi the anomaly with this is that sometimes it will show bank 1 because bank 3 is not suppling the correct information to bank 1 sometimes it is bank 1 but I normally always suspect bank 3 as this has the hardest life in the system you did the right thing pulling the plugs but if you have a reasonable diagnostic platform you can check the temp on each sensor in line and its usually the sensor that reads nowhere near the other two thats duff, I have even had it where the last sensor is reading -70 degrees, really!! the check for temp is available in the live data and if as you say one sensor made no difference I would assume thats the one. Steve. Steve.

Hi can't see the video but yeah that is pretty normal and it should go out after you start driving. Steve.

Hi any damage to a sidewall is a big NO and will get you nicked if you are stopped that would never pass an MOT, showed the picture to my friend who is an MOT tester, his comment, Nah! Steve.

Hi its the child safety process to tell you the bags is live in case you try to put a child seat in the front as if you do have a seat in there the bag has to be turned off. Steve.

Hi NO SEAL, the metal bonding has broken away in the middle. Steve.

Hi if there is no suspension joint wear, it could be anti roll bar bushes or top mount cushions you have not been specific about where and when the creaking occurs.

Hi just goes to show that probably with over a hundred years experience with cars between us we might just know something LOL. Steve.

Hi I have come across this problem a lot, most garages only check the soot levels, what about the ASH thats the killer as it can't be burnt off as its like carbon bricks which can only come out the way it went in so therefore your OBD reader was bang on with the high sevens, that was the ASH, I had this when I worked on a Q3 recently soot was fine up to a point but the ash was at 55%, had the DPF professionally cleaned [off car] reinstalled it with a new MAF/MAP and DPF Pressure sensor and EGT, now been perfect for the last couple of months, soot calculated never more than 20g, soot measured after a regen -4g and ash at 1.8g. All good for another 140k. Steve.

Hi under E.U. law it would be built with TPMS its in there somewhere but strongly believe that its probably the same as my Passat and it only works when the wheels are revolving, I had this with my car, got out there one morning and the rear n/s tyre is flat no warning the evening before, my local tyre shop told me the wheel has to be losing pressure whilst running along to trigger the dash warning, just to prove the point a couple of months later I had two new tyres from the garage I use, tyres fitted and going home almost immediately got big display in the middle of the dash saying check o/s rear tyre pressure, but they are both new, went back they checked the pressure and it was perfect, then one of the engineers spotted that the rear o/s was 225x50x17 when it should have been 225x55x17 so the pressure monitors only work when the wheels are turning and monitor the o/d of the tyre when all pressures are correct and registered on the MMI. Steve.

Hi if the MAF and MAP sensors information dont add up to what the ECU expects it goes in to default strategy and wont allow boost from the turbo, its all about the correlation between the two sensors the MAF can be on its way out but not throw a code, same with the MAP just thought I would suggest this as the cheaper options before going for a new turbo, both sensors get weak at about 80k. Steve.

Hi it could be a faulty MAP and MAF sensor if its the turbo you will have to buy a new unit so try the sensors first. Steve.

Hi shame you did not mention that in your original post would have saved the wrong possible diagnosis, ah well good luck.

Hi, if it was a cheap battery, and you did not code it in there lies the problem, no coding means it will carry on charging at the same rate as the old battery. Steve.

Hi you quoted that you wanted something reliable and the car proffered is over 100k, with that sort of milage things will go wrong therefore I think a new clutch could be the least of your problems in the future, take in to consideration EGR valves, swirl flaps, sensors, oil leaks, fuel pumps, the derivatives are endless, as I stated before the legendary reliability of Audi is built upon the older models Euro4, a very wise car trader once said, you wont find a perfect old high milage car as a free gift in a packet of Cornflakes. Steve.

Hi the crank position sensor is at the back of the engine where the gearbox meets the engine, bit of a sod to get to but doable, then again looking at your symptoms I would be inclined to look at the DMF or Mechatronics unit which would be favourite as these things only ever throw a code when they are really knackered, I understand the process that replacing the position sensor is the cheapest option to start with and hopefully that will cure it. Steve.