spartacus 68

A2 was completely under-rated car. Ahead of it's time with aluminium frame. Wife had a 2002 1.4 TDi that she took to over 100k miles. Just checked it on UK Gov website just now, so still going strong at 180k miles. Good luck with A4 3.0 TDI. They are pretty frugal for a V6, until you tow or run around town. Double check what main dealer recall is? Anything to do with engine map - tell them to take a hike.

I know about not holding the foot on the brake after heavy stop Steve. A lot of terms such as disc warp and pad transfer megerge a on these sort of topics. That can be the eventual result, but the actual souce of the problem is the caliper itself. Siezed brake sliders, corrosion on dust sleeve stopping piston retracting, collapsed brake line, etc. Disc choice is key too. Never had an issue with Zimmermann or Textar.

Agree that brake warp is a bit of a myth too. First thing to do is strip down rear brakes, clean, including hubs, check caliper piston for corrosion, and rebuild My money is on sticky calipers, either piston or sliders. Ceramic brake grease on sliders and red grease under dust sleeve. Budweg do rebuild kits.

Checking actuator is fairly specialised. My understanding is it’s measured with a vacuum pump. If it loses pressure then it’s the actuator. Even if you can diagnose the actuator, then it needs to be calibrated to the turbo. Only had issue before and identified similar issue with Allroad 2.0 TDI. Purchased genuine Garrett turbo from turbo-diesel.co.uk. Audi were charging daft money for basically the same part. Oil feed lines need to be changed as a matter of course as union nuts often leak. Have you also looked at HT leads? Any misfires? If you have access to live data on VCDS you might be able to run actuator. There’s a dedicated forum on Ross-Rech that you should look at and potential find answer there.

Glad you’re enjoying the car. I can confirm though that the roads north of the wall are goosed too! 😃

Piano black will scratch again, even if you replace with a new part. If you’re attempting yourself get anti-marr trim tools and watch YouTube videos for accessing parts. Don’t buy cheap Chinese wrap on Fleabay. Search out wrap that is made by 3M. They produce some of the highest quality wraps including brushed steel which is also susceptible to scratches.

The lights shouldn’t have condensation, especially on 2024 build year. The only real way to check them is to remove. Has car had a bump or repair that you know of? I would follow up with Audi UK to see what the say. There was condensation on Audi R8 rear light clusters I found and replacement ran into thousands. If condensation, still there, take pictures as evidence. You can remove condensation with vacuum and hairdryer and similar, however core issue will still remain. Inspecting the rear lights I would be looking for any for any hairline cracks. These lights will be sealed, so something isn’t right.

Did you trace ABS sensors via scanning the car? Just wonder, as you said, as soon as you turn the steering wheel the errors come back it’s the steering angle sensor that’s failing.

I know on an earlier post that a member had battery drain via after-market stereo. Back to post. Only way to accurately measure battery is with a cheap multimeter. Don’t use on board MMI connection. You’ll know if car is damp. Drain holes for panoramic are under front door hinges, and at rear, under wheel arch liner. Panoramic can leak, either at cassette drain points (one each corner of sunroof) or the actually cassette itself. Check carpets for any dampness. The battery drain check by your neighbour is 100% right approach. Unfortunately there’s no quick fix, it’s laborious, but it needs to to be systematic and go through all scenarios. Also check the car is not dropping on suspension overnight.

I think the best thing to do, is to give the car a health check. If you’ve bought privately, simply to run though any advisories, such as the vibration on start up. It could be gearbox related, but also an engine or gearbox mount. Not aware of the Q5 being Haldex, I thought it was a torsen Quattro. Post 2017 cars had Quattro Ultra which is basically the same thing, so 2-wheel drive until car detects wheel slip. Whichever garage you go with, get the car scanned too for any historical DTC faults.

Welcome to the forum Andy. 🙂 Tread carefully would be my advice. Zero experience of a C5 A6 Allroad, as an introduction to Audi could potentially empty your bank balance. These are old cars now. Came with 2.5 TDI (163PS) or (180PS) engines, in addition to 2.7 or 4.2 V8 petrol. Also air suspension. There’s a dedicated C5 club on Facebook, where the main topic seems to be fixing air leaks or the engine. Plenty sold in the US as petrol variants. Came in Highland Green Metallic as one of the unique colours, which was a bit of a head turner at the time, and matching green leather. The leather was probably extra. 2.5TDI at 180PS was available with 6 speed manual or 5-speed Tiptronic. Because it’s still on the go, then chances are that money has been thrown at it. Often they develop a suspension leak and it drops at a corner, and someone sticks it on springs which is a sin. Most people if keeping the air suspension will source Arnott bags as a suitable replacement. You want history and lots of it. Go through previous MOTs and see advisories and whether they were subsequently fixed, or if that list simply grew. Also check the underside for corrosion. They used to rot along the lower door blades. Headlamps are probably dull and need refurbished. Goes without saying you want to see the suspension raised and lowered. Buttons inside will likely be worn, however you might be able to refurbish. In my opinion, I think you need to be spanner handy to purchase. It’s 24 years old now. But if you’re smitten, then fine, but don’t say we didn’t warn you. Never personally driven one, but had 2001 A4 Avant Quattro with 2.5TDI V6 engine (150PS). Great car, basically Amtrak locomotive. I’d also want to connect it to VCDS to scan to see any historical error codes still logged. Double check road tax cost too.

Sorry to hear about the stroke. I had a look online, so PWX is 7 speed S Tronic. If last gearbox service was at 38k miles, then not really due again until 76k. That said, you mentioned you'd bought it recently, so flag with garage if need be. A VCDS scan may pick something up. But maybe not. I do think with gearbox issues its right to vigilant. Ignoring clunks, could turn into expensive repair. If outwith new buyer period, and assuming no warranty, then search put a specialist. In Scotland there's Mackie Transmissions (Glasgow), that also deal with Tiptronics.

Don’t know the particular history of the car, but any condensation should dissipate. On headlights, which are likely LED, then there’s no heat compared to xenon or halogen bulbs and projector lenses. Has the engine bay ever been washed? On the rear lights, then moisture shouldn’t be there. Not aware of the wrong washer solution. Sounds like a fob off. For warranty claims, the main dealer is simply acting as the franchise agent to administer. Ultimately any claims against Audi are paid for by them. Stand your ground and escalate if need be. In the meantime, considering better weather should be coming, you can use a couple of bags of silica if you can get into the light surround to try and draw out any moisture.

Not sure where I got 2015 from, it might have been on your signature, or I was replying before I had my Weetabix! Good news on the 5k oil changes. Search LLL parts. It has diagrams for parts based on year and engine code. There's always pay to view ErWin too, however without a full diagnostic, it would be difficult to pin down exactly what youre looking for. Audi independent might be logical next step.

Likely S Tronic if 130kw power (which II think was either 177PS or 190PS engine) and 7 speed. Usually service every 38k miles.

Ideally I would try and scan with VCDS to narrow down the issue before you fire the parts cannon at it. My understanding of that error code is low voltage at the turbo actuator, whether vacuum line or boost solenoid. I had an issue with the turbo on my old A4 Allroad 2.0 litre diesel (177PS) at 70k miles that I traced to the actuator. It's actually pretty specialised to replace just the actuator, and to be frank, on a 2015 car, then there's likely to be carbon build up on the turbo on the vanes. I replaced with genuine Garrett turbo from these guys rather than pay daft money to Audi. It's exactly the same part. https://turbo-diesel.co.uk/. Now you're not at that stage yet. If it is the turbo, then replace the oil feed line too, that bit is crucial, plus oil change, etc. You can cross reference parts via LLL Parts and take it from there. I tend to run Forte diesel conditioner through it if it throws a code. Drive hard, then swap out the fuel filter afterwards. Does your car have a N75 valve?

Good news. Swap out the sensor. Get genuine part, not an Ebay special. Shouldn't be that expensive.

Suspect it’s oil sensor, rather than pressure sensor. On my old A4 B5 2.5TDI Avant, it came on when I was towing. It was an oil light and alarm beep too. Oil level was fine and I checked under oil cap and could see oil was getting to rockers. That said, I was young and daft and getting recovered would have been a hassle with a boat too. Get the car scanned with VCDS. If it’s thrown an oil light, then that should be recorded, along potentially with oil pressure. You’ll need to drain oil to get to sensor. Seen it done with a vacuum, without draining. If oil change due, just do it. Change oil pressure sensor while you’re at it. I’d avoid driving it until this is diagnosed and fixed.

It varies between manufacturers, as mentioned VW say 3 years from new and then every 2 years. Audi are 2 years from new, then every 2 years. But knowing Audi, they would step away from caliper issues if not done. £90 is steep in my book, but not for Audi.

If it's a stock car, and it's running well, then personally I'd stick with what you have. Audi work with a range of manufacturers, and it's not uncommon for them to issue new part numbers (last letter changes) where a product has been revised and supersedes the previous version.

For once, Arnold Clark might not be telling porky pies! Looks like Hitachi under part number 06L905110K. Eldor made them previously under 06L905110K. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/9/905/905050

If ever there was a job for a Victorian street urchin - then this is it. Faced similar issue on cars including BMW i3 and VW Polo Mk 6. At least with BMW - the engineers designed a solution o the wheel-arch liner access hatch. Basically, lift car and remove inner wheel arch liner on your car. Pretty sure that's how it's done. You'll need Torx driver, possible some plastic 10mm nuts too.

Usual culprits are heater matrix, plenum drain (bulkhead below windscreen). Also heard the rear vents behind the bumper (helps equalise pressure when doors are shut) can be possible entry points. Lift the carpet as much as you can and get a wet and dry vacuum in there. Lift rear boot cover and check the area is dry there.

As long as it meets VW specification which is VW 504 00/ 507 00 LL specification (fully synthetic) you can use what you want, Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, etc. Probably 5w30 specification. For filters, Mann is OE. Always renew crush washer on the sump plug. Renew every 10k miles, or sooner and your diesel will be a happy bunny.

If your brake discs are hot after a 10 minute drive, and you can test this by going for a short drive, don’t use brakes and coast to a stop. Nine times out of ten, then the brake calipers, specifically the dust sleeve on the main piston has swollen. Oxide corrosion causes the sleeve to swell, and prevents the piston retracting. Replacing discs and pads won’t fix it, you’re throwing good money after bad. Tell tale signs apart from hot discs is a burning smell and hot spots on discs where you can see discolouration. Two choices. If you’re spanner handy, and sounds like your not, then you’re looking at new calipers, especially on 2013 car. Another option, is full brake caliper strip down and rebuild, front and rear. That means, wire brush, paint if you want to, new square seals, dust sleeves, etc. Budweg sell kits on Autodoc, or try BiggRed. You’ll need VCDS for electric handbrake retract. I’d also follow up with brake fluid change. I also add a touch of red grease under the dust sleeves for longevity and use ceramic grease on pad shoulders. Use new shim set too if required.