Magnet
-
Posts
6,394 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
320
Content Type
Profiles
Gallery
Forums
Events
Articles
Videos
News & Articles
Premium Membership
Store
Everything posted by Magnet
-
Personally, I would not use this cheap universal coolant - as already stated. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Thanks Kamran, ’coolant just below minimum...’. Not being overly critical, but it seems you are joining the growing band of putting their trust entirely in the hands of warning lights! This really isn’t the way to respectfully maintain any piece of machinery. Checking oil, water and tyre pressures on a regular basis will certainly reap rewards, and ensure you don’t run into critical situations - as will be the case when your coolant level reaches the minimum. Unless you, or the garage that services the car for you, haven’t checked the coolant level for well over a year, it looks as if it may be losing coolant, and if so, this puts your white smoke syndrome into a different league. But let’s see what happens when you top it up to the Max. mark when cold,(50/50 mix of antifreeze and water), and run the car for a couple of hundred miles. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. We take it the current coolant is pink/red in colour. If so ensure you only but pink/red OAT coolant to add. Personally, I would buy any so called ‘Universal’ (often ready mixed) coolant.
-
Hello James, Thanks for being in touch. Being realistic:- Would you recognise the engine number of any car you have owned? Or, indeed the VIN? Whoever sold you the engine would probably (should?) know the registration number of the vehicle it was removed from, so the answer should be there. Sounds as if it isn’t. Who should be capable of cross referencing engine numbers to registration numbers? Obviously - DVLA. Chances of getting this information? - unfortunately nil, I would think. Still, questioning the forum must be better than not asking. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Steve, What was the make of the replacement sensor? Kind regards, Gareth.
-
OK, so now you are looking at checking you have a good earth at the bulb holder, and if this is confirmed - following my earlier advice. Let us know how you get on Parm. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Tony, Many thanks for being in touch and sharing your unfortunate experiences. I could be wrong, but this smacks for shoddy dealings with the leading company, rather than an inherent broad-brush-Audi issue. The explanation may go along these lines :- Your company contacts the leading company to supply you with a ‘certain type’ of car within a stipulated budget. The leading company may well have used Kia in the past since they were good value for money. Now? - good cars, but not as competitively priced as they were, so they cast the new further and find a good deal on an ‘over stocked’ stuck-in-the-compound A4, which the dealer has been unable to find a buyer for. Dealer offers it to the leasing company at a knock down price (loss?) - dealer doesn’t care what it’s like, so it’s up to the leasing company to try to present it at its best. They don’t care either, since it’s only going on lease. Outcome? - you are left with a non typical Audi car, which is ‘given’ to you, so you have little clout in all of this. I can only wish you well Tony, and as daft as it may sound, I would be hoping the situation deteriorates to a point where they offer you an alternative car. Perhaps you could keep us up to date on developments. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Parm, OK, so you’ve used a multimeter to check if you have 12v at the bulb holder - and you haven’t. Have you confirmed with the meter, that you have a good earth connection at the holder? That’s the next step, and obviously if you do, then you are lacking a 12 volt supply - always worth checking in this way, rather than assuming the earth connection is good. As Cliff says, you now have to look in your handbook and check what fuse supplies the boot light. The fuse may supply other associated lights, so obviously that will also give you a clue to whether the issue is fuse associated or not. If you have eliminated the fuse, it’s worth peeling back the rubber covering over the section of harness which runs from the body to the tailgate - often the site for otherwise unexplained electrical issues, since the wires are constantly flexed when opening and closing the boot, and can eventually fracture. Careful examination is required. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Many thanks Kamran. Re. coolant loss. Warning light ( low coolant level in header tank) will only illuminate when the level is very low. What we are talking here is the good old fashioned visual check - on a regular basis - and not assuming all is well because a warning light isn’t showing. If it were mine, I would be checking the coolant level in the reservoir, when the car is cold and has stood for a few hours - say first thing in the morning. Top the coolant up as accurately as you can, to the Max mark. Run the car for 100 miles or so and check again after the car has sat overnight. Report back on whether the coolant level has dropped or not, and if it has, by how much. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello David, You don’t say what symptoms you have which lead you to suspect the efficiency of the fuel pump relay. In my book, if you have any concerns about this relay, then I would simply renew it (can’t be overly expensive) to either prove it’s at fault, or eliminate it. If cost is that important, then you may find that relays in other circuits share commonality, and can be swopped as a trial - but you must confirm the alternative is to exactly the same. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Kamran, Many thanks for coming back on this. If you have added a video to your last post, then unfortunately, it’s not working on my system. Having said that, I can envisage the picture from your description, except that I would like to confirm that we are still talking while smoke here - with no hint of blue, or any smell of burnt oil. One more question:- Is the car losing any amount of coolant? Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello David, Thanks for being in touch. I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s always difficult to advise on such noises despite adequate description. I think you have taken the right course of action by returning the car to the supplying dealer (not a main dealer?) and seeking comment. If this were mine - and the supplying dealer was not an Audi dealer, then I would be seeking advice at your Audi dealership, and asking them to write down their diagnosis. If it was purchased from a main dealer, then I would return there and ask them to write down their explanation, since your original description is vague and you don’t understand what they mean. Even if you don’t actually understand the explanation, the explanation should be clearly understandable to those experienced enough to know what they are talking about. The final step I would take, would be to formally notify the seller of the issue in writing. Perhaps you could update the forum accordingly. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Greg, Wondered whether your quest to find the part number, as opposed to the actual part, is based on Audi’s price being considered too expensive. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Keith, Many thanks indeed for the feedback of information. Regrettably, this is rare, and others affected by the same issues, have no idea of how the matter was resolved - or not. Many thanks again Keith for keeping the forum updated. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello, Could you inform the forum what grade of steel yours are made from? Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Stabilisation Control (ESC) Fault - Engine will not start
Magnet replied to Conor1410's topic in Audi A4 (B8) Forum
First simple port of call would be to get the battery efficiency checked - if only to eliminate this as a possible cause. -
Thanks Keith, Yes, sounds like you understandably still have the problem. ‘...don’t think we have a solution just yet’. Perhaps you could come back to us when you have inspected the suggested areas. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Thanks Ava, But the Audi specialist you list is in Australia, and the original poster was in difficulties in the U.K! We’ll forget about the fact that he joined the forum, asked for advice and never returned after the day he joined, but....... Just wondered whether you have any connection with the company you refer to? Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Keith from the north Homeland, Thanks for being in touch. Strange! I’m not claiming this is the cause, but it’s worth pulling back the fluted harness cover twixt the body and the tailgate, and carefully examining all the individual leads. This section of the harness takes a hammering with opening and closing of the tailgate, ams wires can break/partly break, and cause issues. At best, it’s a quick and easy elimination point to follow. Logic may suggest partly broken wires could be in better contact with the tailgate lifted. If all is well there, then I would suggest looking around the button area. Water ingress? Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Kamran, Thanks for coming back with the very helpful additional information. If you had a valve guide/seal issue, then the smoke would be blue, not white-ish, so based on what you show us so far, personally, I would be discounting the current diagnosis. We are talking petrol not diesel here? If diesel white smoke is usually due to unburnt diesel ( with associated smell). If this is petrol engined, then if the white smoke isn’t simply condensation in the exhaust - as it often is - it can be caused by burnt coolant via. coolant entering one of the cylinders, but let’s not jump to conclusions here, before we have the result of the test I suggested. Two points to reinforce:- Drive the car for at least 15 miles before carrying out the test. When your assistant holds the revs at a steady 2000rpm, make sure that steady rev. is maintained for at least 2 minutes while you observe the exhaust smoke and assess whether there is anything excessive or variable. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Is the car using any coolant?
-
Hello Z? I don’t have any good reason to have allegiance to main dealers, and yes, plugging the car into sophisticated diagnostics equipment is indeed an easy way to make big money - as you say. But Z, if it’s that simple, why aren’t we all buying the expensive equipment, paying for updates, setting ourselves up in workshops, paying the local authority many tens of thousands of pounds in rates, employing technicians - and hey presto, making a fortune! If only Z! Then of course - what price is experienced diagnosed opinion? How much does a short private consultation for medical issues cost these days? Anyway, Kind regards, Gareth.
-
battery power reading 10% in the morning .
Magnet replied to Ross montgomery's topic in Audi A6 (C6) Forum
Hello Ross, Battery make? If the battery retains its voltage when disconnected, then you have a parasitic drain, and I would strongly advise using the services of an auto electrician to find the offending circuit - unless you are equipped with the knowledge (and suitable meter) to do it yourself. Kind regards, Gareth. -
battery power reading 10% in the morning .
Magnet replied to Ross montgomery's topic in Audi A6 (C6) Forum
OK Ross - the story has now changed from the car starts, to the car doesn’t alway start. Different diagnosis then! Detail is king when trying to diagnose anything at a distance. So indeed it sounds as if something is wrong, and the indicated efficiency is probably not at fault. If this were mine, I would be getting the car checked for a parasitic drain i.e. checking what current the car battery is drawing when the car is fully locked up and immobilised. This should be measured after at least a minute after the car has been locked up, to ensure the system has ‘set’. Ideally, the current draw should be not much over 50mA. I would not be entrusting this to a local garage, but to a trusted local auto electrician. If the current draw is more than that, then it’s a question of isolating each circuit in turn until the offending circuit is found. More detail later if necessary. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. ‘......changed battery under warranty..’. What make battery was the ‘old’ one, and what make has now been fitted? -
Hello Kamran, Thanks for being in touch. What colour smoke are we talking here? When you carried out the full service, what grade and brand of oil did you use - and what brand of filter was used? Re smoke and keeping the car running for a year or so as it is:- This will depend on the severity of the smoke, and it’s effect on emissions at MOT time. Would I be guessing you bought it with a new MOT? You could carry out the following test:- Ensure oil and water levels are up to their marks when cold, then take the car on a 15 mile run to ensure the oil I’d fully up to operating temperature. Immediately on return, leave the car idle for at least a couple of minutes, then get an assistant to rev. the car at a steady 2000rpm while you observe any initial smoke emission. If initially visible and excessive, continue to hold that rev for at least another couple of minutes and observe whether the initial smoke disappears and whether any other smoking subsequently occurs. Report back to the forum. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
Hello Mark, Thanks for coming back. Yes, if it were mine, I would certainly be registering a formal complaint with Audi UK, and state that you require a response within 2 weeks. Kind regards, Gareth.
-
battery power reading 10% in the morning .
Magnet replied to Ross montgomery's topic in Audi A6 (C6) Forum
Hello Ross, Logic would suggest that the reading is incorrect. Possible to recalibrate it via. plugging it into some sophisticated kit? Kind regards, Gareth.
