Magnet

Hello Ray, Suspension issues can be assessed on the ‘shaker’ set up on MOT ramps. This facility ‘shoots’ the car side to side, and is intended to indentify any wear or undue movement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ben, ’….support for older models….’ Could we’ll be right, but everything is worth a try. Stuck on is not such good news, and I guess yours were victims of trying to pull off. I would guess this is going to limit your chances of finding good used ones - off doors. With door, so that you can carefully remove them with heat? Perhaps a daft question, but are you sure your particular model (trim level?) was actually fitted with them when new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, As you say, they could be called any of your suggestions. How were these originally fixed Ben? They could have been on plastic fixings back then ( you will obviously have spaced holes in the doors) or maybe even stuck on, although a bit early?? Apologies for being a little off putting, but you could find that any old ones you find, could come as part of a complete door, so worth searching ‘doors’ as well. I wouldn’t totally discount the worth of going in to you friendly local Audi dealer (don’t phone) and enquiring about their policy for old stock retention/availability/ searching. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sean, Thanks for being in touch. Can I be excused for thinking you are taking an unnecessary risk here by not simply replacing the relatively cheap offending component, before this reoccurs and expensively bites you in the bum? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, Sounds good, and I’m sure you will treat it to a full service inc. air and fuel filters, plugs etc. before delving further into any remaining lumpy running issues. Re. the missing trim:- worth advertising in the classic press - such as Modern Classics etc., as well as searching EBay -U.K. and Germany. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I can certainly understand your frustration, but in reality (at least as I see it - and I’m open to contradiction) - any replacement vehicle component (including a main dealer part) will be guaranteed for 1 year, unless stated otherwise. Yes I know the original parts can last a decade plus, but that’s the reality. I would also agree that a genuine replacement VAG component would be expected (in caps) to last longer than 3 years, but you don’t even know if you have a genuine VAG alternator - my guess is you don’t, but……. I’m very much with Keith on the benefits of getting an original component reconditioned by a specialist, where possible, rather than dipping your toe into the comparative unknown of the aftermarket world. Yes, by all means, vent your frustration at the garage, if that is really what you want to do, but I would be prepared for disappointment, and let’s hope that I’m wrong. Of course, you have the alternative viewpoint of your wife who seems to be saying to put it down to bad experience and move on after 3 years. Only you know what is best for you, and I genuinely hope you will get something worthwhile out of it for your efforts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch. If you have any sections which look worse for wear - as you say, then you should first check the whole element for continuity. Unfortunately if electrics are not your thing, (and taking it you might not have a meter which you are familiar with ) then you are going to struggle to fault find this system - irrespective of what additional tips you may gain from here. If this were mine, I would be investing in an hour’s time with a trusted auto electrician. He will easily diagnose the cause, and inform you of the anticipated work. One place I can point you to looking at, would be the flexible harness which links from the body to that tailgate. It would be worth carefully pulling back the rubber covering and checking for any broken cables in this section. Very prone to breaking due to flexing as the boot is opened and closed. Kind regards, Gareth.

There you go Ian - into the territory of a nice friendly, reasonably priced local auto electrician! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Many thanks. It’s always useful to know what has been tried, to avoid duplication of advice, and I feel that combining what we now know you have indeed done, with Keith and my comments, points you towards needing some assistance via. the use of the more the professional equipment I mentioned. Just one point :- personally, I’m not a great fan of the one way valve bleeding tubes, preferring the end of the tube to be immersed in a jar with brake fluid. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Sorry to hear of your problem. Are you now getting clear fluid coming through all bleed nipples? If so, you could try finding yourself an interested accomplice who can pump the brake pedal until it’s as hard as he/she can get it, and at that exact point you open the bleed nipple on that wheel. Top up the master cylinder and repeat this procedure at each wheel. See if that improves your pedal. It could be advantageous to have the engine running to gain the servo assistance. Please obverse all safety requirements. If this procedure makes a noticeable improvement, then I would repeat it until you are happy. If it doesn’t get you to where you want to be, then it would be a case of getting the system pressure - or vacuum bled. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Ian, Let’s be realistic here - why would you expect them to sort out a problem with the alternator FOC when the alternator is 3? years old? Bit of a tall order is that. I cannot comment on parts and labour costs in your area, but it would not be unreasonable to suggest that you didn’t get off lightly. I now wonder why you would want to return there, in preference to getting a trusted local auto electrician to check your alternator, battery and possible parasitic drain, and give you a reasonable estimate for repair. Possible gearbox issue? Put that in the pending file until you get the above checked. Kind regards, Gareth.

Blinking heck Ian. £200 for a battery? You will need to find your invoice for the alternator and see what brand was fitted. Latest alternator output test result? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, A couple of points to add/ reinforce already asked. Can you confirm your battery is not an AGM type? I wouldn’t think it is - as Keith suggest- due to the age of the car, but worth double checking. Bad news if it is indeed an AGM since your ‘classic’ ( non intelligent) charger will have done it a power of no good! What make is this battery and how long has it been on the car? The replacement Varta 5 year guaranteed battery on our same age car is now showing it’s age, and needs renewing before the cold weather. This will give you some comparison. Have you remeasured the output of your (Chinese?) alternator? This is essential task. My feeling is that this is where your issue rests, and since you mention bearing wear, then it’s not out of the question that this unit has passed it’s sell by date. Certainly check all connections. Apologies for an alternative opinion Keith, but vehicles don’t normally have parasitic drains - unless something is wrong ( and Ian doesn’t appear to have checked that yet). The only draw there should be on the battery should be a consumption of c50mA drawn by the alarm system - once the vehicle has fully ‘shut down’. That would not be termed parasitic. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Dan, I wonder if you would be kind enough to let me have the EBay link to the armrest clip? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello P, Many thanks for updating the forum, and I understand the action you have taken, and it would seem that the dealer has been as accommodating as he can be with you. Again, I can only speak as if it were mine, and I would repeat my earlier advice, based on giving it a further trial test. This advice is based on the fact that you liked the car, and being realistic, any secondhand car is likely to have some issue/s which will need resolving. Still you now have an outcome which suits you, and that’s important. It’s starting to look again now then P. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello P-? Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. It is obvious by your description, that the car was actually - externally leaking - coolant, and being pessimistic, I think there would be little chance of anyone on here being able to diagnose the exact source of that leak without inspecting the car. Moving forward:- you certainly did the right thing by returning the car to the supplying dealer, and OK, they couldn’t replicate the issue. It is possible, just possible, that they did in fact find the source of the leak and fixed it. This is probably an over reaction, but when you pick it up and check the coolant level before starting it, have a look at the surface of the coolant in the reservoir to see it there is any evidence of any slightly metallic looking deposits floating on the top of the coolant fluid. If there is, this might indicate that a leak sealer has been added. I would think not, since you stated the leak was external, but…… If it were mine, I would then replicate your journey and obverse what happens. Irrespective, of the outcome, I would then be booking the car in to a trusted local independent and getting the coolant system tested - and reported on, if found to be at fault. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on P. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zakk, Sorry, no personal interest, but just trying to suggest additional information which would be helpful to serious enquirers. Kind regards, Gareth.

As I mentioned earlier, I believe the dealer will set the required service schedule dependent on the anticipated annual mileage. For low mileage use the servicing alert will be set at a repeating annual basis, However, on higher mileage use, it will be set on a Longlife schedule, which monitors use and ‘driving style’, and can work out at services being necessary around 18k miles, or 18 months. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zakk, Many thanks for the detailed description. I wondered how long you have owned it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back on this Robin, and apologies for pointing out your mistake - I’m not usually as good at pointing out the mistakes of others, as I am in making my own! Audi dealer? My experience points me to paying a visit rather than trying to gain information over the phone. The problem you have is that they are (understandably?) reluctant to provide part numbers where they are not actually supplying the part. Having said that, I think you may get a positive response to a question about 2 door and 4 door compatibility. Cost? Um! I might be able to point you in the direction of a modest discount if you are serious about that route. Supplied colour coded?? It would surprise me if VAG supplied then in all the colours, but worth an ask. Could be a painting task as well as fitting. I still think you could clear your questions with a bit of searching and asking EBay sellers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robin, Logic would suggest they would be the same on both 2 and 4 door. I have a 2006 4 (5) door and could possibly compare if you post a photo of your 2 door. Having said that, EBay photos and requests for some basic dimensions should come up with the answer. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Just noticed your profile shows 2006, but your post say 2009 - so comparison with my 2006 may not be the answer.

Thanks for the clarification Stanley, Your additional information now makes sense of the issue. It would appear that your servicing requirement is set on an annual service basis ( you must have told them what your annual anticipated mileage would be -?). You will get the same servicing notification again at this time next year. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Anything with sports suspension (S line?) will be inherently harder on suspension than its non-sports equivalent. I’m not fully conversant with the options, but am I right in thinking that to get certain toys and trims, then you are governed by these only being available via. S.Line for example? In other words the buyer buys in to the things that attract, but maybe if ride quality is an important factor, then some of this has to be traded off. Can I be excused for thinking that appearance/attractiveness has become more important than the quality of the ride? If you add to this (and I don’t think you are) the apparent attractiveness of larger diameter wheels with inherent lower profile tyres, then this simply aggravates the ride situation. As Steve says, you need to drive one (again?) with the actual specification you have ordered, to ensure you can live with the ride quality. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, Until it is established exactly what the degree of end float is here - and it should be in a small number thousands of an inch as Keith says - not in mm! (1mm = 40 thou.) then any work on this clutch will be repetitive and a waste of one heck of a lot of money and time, and could result in disaster. The quoted amount of end float is potentially engine destroying. If it were mine:- while it’s still in one piece and drivable (to some extent) I would be urgently booking this into Audi, or a trusted local independent, and getting the end float thoroughly investigated and a report issued. If there is indeed a serious amount of end float, then this would need attending to before (in caps) any other clutch work. If indeed there is an out-of-tolerance end float then there is something adrift with the crankshaft thrust ‘washers’ (bearings), and I can’t tell you whether that requires an engine out operation, or whether the sump can come off with the engine in situ. This is where my attention would now be directed Philip. Perhaps you could keep us informed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thank Olumide. I agree with you regarding the quoted cost appearing high for a ‘simple’ oil and filter change. However, without the original poster supplying us with the requested detail of exactly how old this car is ( and what has been its servicing history to date) then we must assume (for this to make sense) that the quoted price is for a ‘service’. Would VAG agree to do a simple oil and filter change for a vehicle still under warranty - if the service schedule requires a ‘full’ service at that time, and if they did, would the anticipated cost be £50 or less? Perhaps Stanley could come back with the answers to the earlier questions. Kind regards, Gareth.