Magnet

Hello Lee, Sorry to hear of your problem, but no, it cannot .. ' just be the cold weather' . The photo would indicate the pads to be OK , but we are looking at just one side of one one wheel. Could ( just could) be a small bit of road grit has be thrown up, but whatever, the braking system of the car is trying to tell you something and I would advise getting it thoroughly inspected as soon as possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well Steve, ' For reasons I won't go into......' intrigues, since it seems you are prepared to run out of fuel to be able to 'fill up with the VPower stuff...' Surely a gallon or so of the nearest petrol station's 'best' is better than no petrol at all! I can only wish you good luck. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. As the Irish would say.. ' I wish you good luck, or if you can't get good luck - bad luck, since bad luck is better than no luck at all! I trust this doesn't offend - on the principle that the Welsh and the Irish are prepared to laugh at themselves.

Hello Derek, The fact that the car actually cut out (due to a low oil level?) is the strange part of this to me - particularly on an 11 year old car. Things have moved on, and I am aware that say low Adblue levels on current diesels, can render the vehicle 'unstartable' once it is switched off, unless the Adblue is topped up. However, it will not cut out while running. If you think about it, actually cutting the engine power due to a low oil level ( particularly if the warning has just been shown) is potentially dangerous - you can think of all sorts of driving situation senarios where this could be a catastrophic thing to build in to a car's technology. However, the non-restart until the oil is topped up, could be a sensible thing to build in - as with the Adblue logic. If it were mine:- I would be keeping a close eye on the oil level (dip stick on this - or possible to fit one or not?). I would not depend solely on a bit of electronics to warn me that the oil level had reached the minimum. I would then be assessing how much oil is being used and be getting into the habit of topping it up as necessary according to the mileage it is covering. It would be useful/most important even, to readdress this with your wife and ascertain that the car's engine actually cut out, rather than going into say limp mode, or her pulling over and failing to restart it. If it did cut out - as a matter of urgency, I would be checking with a reliable source of Audi knowledge ( visiting your local or not so local dealer and attempting to actually speak with one if the technicians rather than the service receptionists - or trying to do this over the phone) I don't think you can automatically assume the cutting out and failing to restart are connected - an assumption it is until proved to be correct. There could (just could) be something else causing it to have cut out. It would be interesting to know how you get in Derek. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, A couple of questions before moving on to the logic of this issue. Did replacing the water pump and plastic pipe solve the water loss? - which I take you had before you replaced both components? How long ago was this done? If it cured it (did it?) which of the two were found to be at fault? How much coolant is the car now using? I take it you have re-inspected both components. Is there any evidence of excessive smoke from the exhaust when the engine is thoroughly hot, and revved to 2000rpm and held at that for two minutes? Perhaps you could let us know about the above, and someone can then possibly advise. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Is the car relatively new to you?

Hello Cliff, I'm with Steve on this. The central locking is generally controlled by the mechanisms in the driver's door, and it sounds like the key is not actually moving what it should - so it would be door card off to see what is and isn't going on. A job for the finer weather. I have a similar issue with the non-Audi except that one generally doesn't remotely lock or unlock, but does lock and unlock with the key. That is on hold until the weather gets warmer! Remotes and batteries:- I used to go along with these and change the battery when you had to get noticeably closer to the car for it to work! I now try to make a habit of changing them annually and using non £ shop batteries. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, I too read your posts with interest, and as I have said before, I am amazed you don't meet yourself on the way back! Particularly interested in the speed awareness course, or whatever it is called. My (very fortunate) inexperience of these is such that I would have imagined that there would have been a limit to the number of opportunities there were to attend the course, rather than being penalised with the points. Not so then? Sorry to hear about the house. No doubt local surveyors do well out of such properties, and as you say, a good future-experience question of estate agents would be to ask if any other surveys had been done, and the intended buyer subsequently did not go ahead as a result. Would I be pessimistic in thinking the answer would be moderated by the so called Data Protection Act!?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, I too follow your logic of increasing the profile of replacement tyres to attempt to replicate the final tyre diameter of your current 19 inch wheels. Why owners strive to run their cars on such ridiculously low profiles remains a mystery to me, unless they constantly drive around corners on two wheels! The ride comfort must be compromised, and Dunlop - bless him- worked hard to develop pneumatic tyres for us, as replacements for the original solid tyres. Need he have bothered? What I would ask Chris is, were the intended 18 inch replacement wheels a factory option for your model? If so fine, if not, you would be wise to pass this intention passed your insurers before committing. Apologies for having a varying opinion, but I cannot see a need to check the wheel alignment, if the current tyres are wearing properly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Les, Apologies - I've re read your original post, and to me it read that you made a fuss because the recall had not been carried out, rather than you didn't want to have it carried out. Still... it's clear now. Regarding the major issue, I think that although the situation you find yourself in is unreasonable, it is unfortunately what it is, and my way forward from this inaudible-to-you noise problem would be to first have this independently assessed and move from there by having had a second opinion on its severity. Apologies for repeating. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth

Hello Dave, As frustrating as it is, I can understand the Audi dealers not wanting to give you part numbers where you don't have any intention of buying the parts from them. I can also understand that if you are buying ex-Internet (via. E Bay?) then you run a risk of getting the wrong parts, since the parts suppliers lists can, and often are wrong - even giving registration numbers is no guarantee of getting the right parts. Also brake parts in particular can vary within the same model and year, due to different O.E. suppliers, so it may come down to needing VIN details to be sure of getting the right parts. It seems you have bought and attempted to fit incorrect dimension discs, so at least you know of one variant which is wrong, and it should now be possible to take most of the critical dimensions of the originals, and this should be sufficient data for obtaining the correct one. Where there is a 'dispute' between supplier and the buyer, most suppliers will cop out by advising the buyer to obtain the manufacturer's part number - of course you are finding that is not so easy! What make discs have you bought Dave? Many disc suppliers will have a UK based contact number, and if you make contact with their technical department, they will usually be able to point you to their correct part number if you give them the critical dimensions of the correct original part. Suppliers are seldom accommodating in that respect! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Brendan, To me, this diagnosis and estimate for repair would be totally unacceptable. It must be possible to narrow down the offending part - which may be as simple as a ABS wheel sensor or a corroded toothed ring. Of course, it may be an ABS unit, but even so - £3000?? Secondhand part if ABS unit? If it were mine, I would most certainly be seeking a second opinion on this. Of course, if you have/already had in your mind to change the car, then that's fine. If you are selling it simply on the current diagnosis, then I would seriously think twice, and get a second inspection on the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Les, I sympathise with you regarding this defective engine component, and would ask the question:- Is it reasonable to expect a 23k, three and a half year old, supposedly quality engineered car, serviced according to the schedule ( I guess - correct? ) to develop a significant engine deficiency? My answer would be - no it isn't reasonable. OK, it's now out of warranty, so it becomes your responsibility to repair it. That has to be fact, and any contribution by the Audi organisation can be considered to be simply as a good will gesture. You ask the question ' should I challenge this further...?' Well do you have anything to lose? That depends on whether the current 'offer' is subject to withdrawal or not, and whether there is any experience ( possibly via. other forums) of their good will gesture to you, being bettered in the past. It seems the answer to that is not forthcoming from here, but there may be additional help via. other sources. I'm of an age where I suffer from significant hearing problems, and it would be understandable if I couldn't hear the noise they are referring to. Is your hearing compromised in any way, since you say you cannot hear any noise? If it were mine:- I would be first getting a second qualified opinion on whether this noise exists or not. From there, you will obviously need to decide whether you are prepared to get the work done or not at the current costings, or consider selling the car if that is an economic thing to do. Not sure how much of this helps, but... Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. '.. made a fuss about them not do the emissions update....' Sorry Les to be rather direct, but making a fuss is not conducive to getting the best out of negotiations, and they may well have done you a big favour! - worth reading up on the topic near the top of this forum.

Hello Brendan, Sorry to here of your ABS issue. What particular components have you been advised are at fault? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, 'Supply voltage low' - can be due to high contact resistance onto the component. This can sometimes be rectified by spraying the connector plugs with contact cleaner and wiggling. Sorry, don't know where the component is on the car, but hopefully someone will come along with the answer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, I won't bother to comment on the health check recommendations! Washers? - general, i.e. Including windscreen:- I too buy the neat fluid and tend to mix it 2:1 water to fluid, which is more than adequate to cover most of our bad weather requirements without freezing in the system. The problem I find is that the mixed fluid deteriorates fairly quickly and tend to form a 'goo' in the bottom of the reservoir which is really an algae , and this can partly clogg up the jets. My belief as that the neat solution had additives which prevented this, but not so. It you mix this solution in a container and leave that container for a couple of weeks, you will find it smells like stagnant water. Of course, modern cars have their reservoirs fitted down in the wheel arch, making it impossible to see the condition of the fluid. Such is my concern, that I now resort to filling the reservoir to no more than half full, so fresh top ups are more frequent. Any effect on your issue? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kieran, No I don't mean the engine cover, but the belt cover. My strong advice would be to get this looked at at a garage local to where you are - without delay. This car is trying to tell you something! Personally, I would not be attempting any (should be in caps.) journey without getting it looked at first. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Kieran, Having not listened to your video ( hearing too bad!) I would be concerned about the possibility of a 'flappy' cambelt hitting the plastic cover. Do you know when the belt was last changed? Could be completely wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, I'm surprised that this car isn't/wasn't subject of an emissions recall. Personally, I would want some sort of 'second opinion' on this, and it might be worthwhile double checking with Audi UK, and posting on here as a new post - asking that specific question In relation to the 1.6d and the model year. Previous keeper? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, I take this you are buying the car from an Audi dealer, since it is within the age/mileage band where it would normally be kept for retail. It should not yet be due for a cambelt change (if a belt -as opposed to a chain- was fitted to this model year). If I was in your situation, I would be ringing up another Audi dealer, giving them the registration number and asking if it is indeed fitted with a belt (Parts rather than Service would be my first point of contact) and if so when it would be due for change. I would be surprised if the interval was less than 80k or 5 years, whatever comes first. What would be of more importance to me at the moment would be if this car has been presented for the emissions recall, and if so, what its subsequent issues have been - if any. It might be worth reading up on the forum here of the bad experiences of many owners, following their cars being subjected to recalls. The last registered keeper would have full knowledge - always worth a check there. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Could be worth trying the cleaner spray and connector wiggling as a start then Steve. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Steve, When you say it 'falls back' - just to confirm this is a sudden and complete lack of a gauge reading rather than a fall off over a very short period of time. If so, I would suspect an electrical contact issue here and it might be worth checking the connector/ wiring particularly associated with the temperature sensor. Worth a free coat of looking at before opening your wallet to pay for a diagnostic check. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, As I see it, you have 2 possible issues in terms of simply spraying your current ones:- You will need to remove the ( chrome effect?) Audi roundal logo - if fitted - and if you don't want the logo to be oversprayed black. I would guess you run a fair chance of breakage, since the manufacturer woukd not expect anyone to remove these. Second problem:- I'm yet to find a true black aerosol - they are virtually all a 'dirty' black, trending towards a rather browny black. That may not matter to you, but it's worth being aware of. It would also be advisable to prime them with a primer suitable for plastics. I would expect the wheel refurbishers preferred not to spray them since they too woould obviously have difficulty with not spraying over the rounals. Easiest and most reliable way out? - As Steve says. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lynne, Sorry to hear of your problems. My stab at it - based on it being unlikely to be individual fuses since there are a number of circuits affected - would obviously be to consider one 'control' which is common to all the affected circuits. I might be completely wrong, particularly due to the age of the car, but I would ask, are the electrics controlled by a 'body control unit'? i.e. a BCU (similar concept to ECU with 'engine control unit'). Perhaps the car is too old for that - I don't know- but no doubt someone else on here will be far more familiar with this than I am. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, As Steve says, there shouldn't be/isn't, any problem associated with cancelling your order and having your full deposit refunded, since they appear to be unable to complete the contact they set up with you - within a reasonable timescale. You question whether the salesman's reply to your verbal? question is correct, and I would say there is a possibility (just a possibility) that his reply has been moderated by wishing to now complete a deal with you as soon as possible, rather than run the risk of you walking away. Of course, he may be correct, and the only way to get a more reliable/correct? update on this situation, is to write to Audi. I say write, (e-mail should do) rather than telephone since you are more likely to receive a considered and more accurate response. I seems Paul, that you too have been got at, in terms of the adverse publicity against diesels - and I can accept that it you have strong views on airborne pollution ( while we continue to burn literally 100s of thousands of aviation fuel per day without comment). The question I would ask is that if you were offered an engine which produces the same power output, has the capability of lasting at least 1.5 times as long as a petrol engine, and gives you an improved fuel consumption of approx. X 1.5, would you turn it down? The 'automatic' answer appears to be Yes. If it's an A5 petrol engined car you want, and if the salesman's response is correct, then the simple answer is you can't have one. Personally, I cannot see why a similar output diesel - which should be available - is so far out of the question as to result in not having the model at all. OK, the depreciation on the diesel is likely to be greater due to this adverse publicity, but if the purchase is going to be via. a PCP ( as most seem to be now) then how much does it matter since the future 'sale' of the car will be guaranteed? Anyway Paul, apologies for rambling, but if it were me, I would be writing to Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I'm sorry to hear you are still at a loss, although suggestions have been made to try to establish the extent and possible origin of the issue. Now that you tell the thermostat was changed due to the same problem, rather than the normal thermostat mode of failure ( not opening, or opening too early), it really does put a different light on it, and demonstrates the importance of stating the historical detail. If you are genuinely at a loss then I run the high risk of boring by repeating:- get the actual running temperature checked at the point where the needle reads high. Find another garage and get that on-the-road check done. The investigation starting point really does rest there, unless you want to replace more parts in an attempt to try to eliminate the problem. Once we know the outcome, I'm sure others will follow with more advice. Meanwhile:- does the car loose any coolant? Is there any smoke from the exhaust when you carry out the following test?:- Take the car for a 10 mile run and get an assistant to rev. the engine to 2000rpm and hold it steady at this rev. for 2 minutes while you observe any smoke from the exhaust. It woukd be great if you could report back on this. Of course, there could be many causes of the problem, but the above should give a better indication of how to move forward. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Cliff, I'm very much with your logic if the defective thermostat fails to open when it should, but failure to open at all is only one mode of failure. The opening of a thermostat is controlled against a spring, and it's the ability to retain a constant force against that spring which might be in question here. It's all very well for the hot coolant to initially open the thermostat, but as we know, it has to remain fully open (against the constant pressure of the spring) at all times once the required temperature has been reached. It's its ability to do that that I am questioning here. Of course, I could be barking up wrong trees here, since James does not share with us the pre-new-thermostat history of any problems - if there were any- or indeed whether there was a thermostat fitted at all! In other words, did this car have some inherent other issues which were masked by the old thermostat? It is not uncommon for posts not to include all the useful detail which is necessary to offer some progressive advice - but we can only hope we do our best with what we are given. Kind regards, Gareth.