Magnet

Hello Miles, This is confusing, since you say it gives problematic starts after standing for 2 hours - by which time it will have cooled down to ambient (cold this time of year) temperature. Yet it starts ....'perfect when cold'. Perhaps being pessimistic, but it sounds like it needs someone properly equipped to assess the spark quality and fuel delivery at points where it's reluctant to start. It could be due to so many causes, and the initial starting point would be to assess whether it's either spark quality or fuel associated - and move from there. If I have to have a guess at it (and a guess it would certainly be), I would be checking the cleanliness of the connections at the crank position and cam position sensors - simply to do something! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, In the absence of any other more helpful replies, you could try the following which might reset the TPS:- Switch the ignition on and press the accelerator peal to the floor and release. Repeat this press and release 5 times without switching the ignition off. Switch ignition off, wait about 10 mins. and start the car. This is the general method to reset them. Works on Audis? - but worth a try I guess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks like you now have an aftermarket thermostat fitted to your car - ...' purchased through my local parts shop'. If it were mine, I would not be replacing the sensor ....'process of elimination', but I would be first doing what I suggested - no need to repeat what that is. I would be preparing myself to invest in a genuine Audi thermostat. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK James, So what do you intend to do next to resolve this? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, It makes sense to return the tyres, since it's only then that an official investigation can begin on your (should be in caps.) tyres. If it were me, I would be putting everything in writing and certainly retaining a typical couple of the defective tyres incase you need to progress your complaint through other channels. i.e. Retain some evidence. It really surprise me that the media have not been involved. Not followed the given links, so apologies if the links points to media having been involved. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Personally, I would not suspect anything until you have actually measured the temperature at the point where the gauge reads high - in other words, confirmed it is high. There a cheap contactless thermometers which should give you an 'external' measurement, but others more familiar with modern technology! might confirm my belief that actual running temperature can be monitored by plugging in to the diagnostics- your trusted local garage might help there. If indeed the temperature is proved to fluctuate then I would first suspect the thermostat - yes, I know it's just been changed, but new cannot be taken serviceable, particularly if an aftermarket part was used. Do you know if a main dealer part was used, or an aftermarket? Hope some of the above helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, Sorry to be a pain, but you still don't tell us whether the car now starts without a 20 second cranking - so that side of it is sorted and you now only have the EML to sort. I think I'm simply repeating, but if it still has delayed starting, then I would be eliminating the glow plug wiring, before moving on to other suspected causes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Patrick, Very useful feedback, which will hopefully keep others on their guard. It seems scammers are rife. Only paying by Paypal (not giving card details) is the way to go. At least if something goes wrong then there should be a comeback. As I understand it Paypal charges are lower if the transaction is a 'gift' , but there isn't any hope of claiming to get your money refunded via. this category. If the transaction is listed as 'Goods & services' (or something like that) then the seller incurs an extra charge - which they like to pass on to the buyer. Always worth paying the extra. Apologies if this is common knowledge to all. Glad you got it sorted in the end. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Check your agreement - you should have a 'cooling off' period, and it may make more sense to cancel the sale rather run the risk of trying to make any claim to resolve a potential issue. The answer to the question of whether this particular car consumers oil or not, rests with the last registered keeper. Have you made contact with this person to find out the 'full background' about it before committing to buy? Most people will find my constant reference to this important step as being very boring but....... The full story about any vehicle rests there, and not necessarily with 'full service history' or not. Problem is, (understandably) most people fall in love with the look of a secondhand car, and the toys its fitted with, and we all know of phrase about love and blindness. Sorry to be blunt Richard, but if you have any concerns then now is the time to have them, and to make a decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Derek - for ..own... read OEM then - predictive text eh! Sorry to be a pain, but I'm still a bit confused. The readings you now give are very slightly different from the original post, so are these readings taken on the new plugs? If not, what are the readings now? Repeat question, but is the car now starting as it should? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Is Magnatec fully synthetic, or something like 'synthetic technology!' ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Hopefully someone else will be along and be definite, but I think (should be in caps!) it is fully synthetic 5w/30. But please, please double check. Halfords normally have on-the-counter reference books at the point where they sell their oil. The recommended grade of oil is also likely to have an Audi 'specification number', so be certain the one you choose satisfies this as well. IF it is 5/30 then I've been using a Quantum brand ( their Longlife 3) which I understand is/was recommended by VAG. It's currently available with some EBay sellers at around £25 for 5ltrs. Incase it helps, if I'm not using VAG filters then I will only use Mann as an alternative. Hope some of this helps, but please recheck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, In the absence of other replies, I wonder if clarification on some of the following may help:- When you say '... changed all four with .....own...parts.' - is the ...own... a misprint for new? If new, or not, have you measured the resistance on the replacements? Unfortunately, assuming new = serviceable can indeed catch you out. Is it now starting quicker than it did? If all plugs now have an acceptable low resistance, have you checked the associated wiring? Not wishing to rub it in, but having bought a new glow plug module, due to the fault code pointing to that, demonstrates that fault codes may not actually show that the unit is faulty - it could be receiving an incorrect 'signal' from another associated component. It's the old cause and effect rule. If all the above check out correctly, then I guess the EML could indicate a separate fault, and if it were mine I would then be booking it for a check out by a trusted local diesel specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, I'm very much with Steve on this, and I'm sure this will be covered under warranty. We must take it that the coolant level in the reservoir is dropping - significantly? if some is finding its way onto the road. We guess you are topping it up with the correct type and concentration of coolant. Kind regads, Gareth. p.s. The radiator on our A3 became perforated (not due to damage) many years ago when fortunately it was just within the 3 year warranty. That as replaced at the dealer without charge.

Hello Patrick, I guess you've registered your 'want' with such companies as Partsfinder (I think it's named) etc. who are linked to breaker's yards. These breakers will contact you if they have a suitable engine. Apologies if you already know of this avenue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daren, I guess you mean 1000rpm rather than 10,000! If it's 1000 then this is fine - fast idle until it warms up a little. Once it has done that, then it should settle back to around 750rpm, as it does. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Since you cannot feel any vibration through the seat - only through the steering wheel - it would suggest some out of balance with the fronts. This vibration coming in at 80 mph is not typical of wheel balance - normally too high a speed ( you don't admit to breaking the law do you!?) However, if were mine, I would be doing two things before suspecting anything else:- Try another tyre retailer and ask them to balance the wheels - fronts in particular. And yes, get them to thoroughly ( in caps) examine wheels and tyres. I would not assume all good until proved to be so. Try swopping front wheels to back and back to fronts. You didn't mention any mixes of tyre makes on the car. Assumng that this 4/5 year old car is of average mileage and condition, then it would not be expected that things like drive shafts and bushes would be significantly worn - assuming damage has not occurred at some time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Can you also feel any vibration through the seat by any chance? Were the tyres (and wheels) thoroughly inspected before balancing? Are the tyres matched on the same axle, and hopefully the same on both axles? Aopologies for the questions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you Paycho, '....oil pump ...replaced ....if necessary' may hold a clue. If it were mine, I would be getting the actual oil pressure measured when the oil is hot ( only after a 10 mile run) so that you will be able to know if it's simply an oil pressure sensor issue, or an actual a low pressure problem. How many miles has the car done since the engine was rebuilt? Have you notified the rebuilders? Kind regards, Gareth.

OK , but what work was carried out on both? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peycho, You will need to tell us exactly what has been rebuilt on the engine and what hasn't. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Cathal, Others more knowledgeable than me will be able to advise with the accuracy of these range computerising on Audis. My experience with non- Audis is that they are guide figures rather than accurate assessments. If it were mine, I would fill the tank to the brim, zero the trip and run it over average driving conditions until the gauge reads around a quarter full. Refill to the brim and calculate the average mpg, but I would not be expecting to achieve 'book figures' consumption. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ray, Never heard of Seark thermostats - radiators, yes. By what you say, so would seriously suspect this thermostat. I have just changed a thermostat on a 1.6, A3 but chose a genuine VAG one in preference to an aftermarket one at a third of the price, due to experience of the potential for variable quality with aftermarket ones. Not sure if you changed this yourself or had it fitted by someone else, but if you fitted it, I work on the principle that I save on labour so can 'afford' to use genuine parts for critical applications. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Angela, In my mind, if you are 'in a panic' you have to deal with one issue at a time. You don't tell us when the car is booked in for an MOT, but yes, you can literally take a chance that the warning like will not come on during the test - but a chance it is. If the light does come on and it fails, you will then have two problems to deal with under pressure, rather than one, as now. If it were mine then I would follow my original advice, since you say you panic when the light comes on anyway. 'Hate cars having all these sensors' :- well they are there to warn drivers of issues, and hopefully allow corrective work to be carried out - generally without pressure. Yes, some may favour not having warning sensors, and just depend on blind faith between services. Hope you can sort it out without too much inconvenience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ray, Just one simple question:- What make replacement thermostat did you use? Kind regards, Gareth.