Magnet

Hello Oliver, Thanks for being in touch and raising a good question. Strange but Audi seemed to ignore the need for these cars (well our 2006, and I guess your 2009) to be subsequently fitted with roof rails, since there are no pre-drilled-and-covered holes. I looked at this and decided that I really did not want to drill the roof/mess up the headlining? etc. so called it a day. Perhaps, if you are looking to buy a pair of second hand ones, then you may find they are rare - for the same reason. Perhaps you could explain exactly what you are now looking for - front to back roof rails, or some form of across-car food bars? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I haven’t checked actual book figures, but to me, it would appear to be very good value for money, and well presented and described in the advert. Everything will sell at a give away price, but successfully selling at a reasonable price does come with a little patience. Perhaps you could let us know where you have advertised it so far. Whereas it’s always worth advertising on this forum, I think it’s fair to say that it is an owners forum - which might equate to members actually owning Audis rather than looking to buy one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark and thanks for being in touch. Could you let us know (apart from price) what is the single characteristic of tyre performance that is most important to you - e.g. road holding (wet and dry); noise, longest tyre life/mileage, etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daryl and Cliff, I know you are not a fan of WD40 Cliff, but it could be used to advantage in establishing if the inlet manifold joint is letting air in, by spraying around the gasket while holding the revs at around 1500 to 2000rpm. If this gasket is leaking then you are likely to see the exhaust smoke becoming blue in colour as the WD40 gets sucked in and burnt. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, It’s 2013 - as under the poster’s profile. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Tony. Not sure about your previous experience, and why you would be asking what brand brake pads they would be using. I can understand they would be rather evasive since the simple answer is they would only fit Audi branded parts. Perhaps it might be to do with asking the wrong question, and I would be surprised if they cannot help you with this, but if you fail, then I would suggest trying another wheel refinisher in your area. Secondhand car dealers are often a good source for wheel refinishing recommendations. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Parm, No disrespects, but if you are asking this question, then please apply social distancing! from all car electric checking. Your vehicle and yourself could potentially be at risk. Best advice is to entrust your boot light issue to a local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Thanks for being in touch. Have you actually tried at your local Audi dealer and failed, or are you depending on the information you were given by the person you approached? Were these people specialist wheel refinishers, or a general bodywork business? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, I guess you don’t want to walk into your nearest dealer and pay an Audi price the part, otherwise it would be simple. If you don’t, then I think you may be in difficulty (as you are finding) since breakers are unlikely to remove such door trim pieces - although, of course, they do tend to strip doors as much as practically possible and sell those separately. Possible avenue incase they would remove this trim from a door, would be to list your ‘want’ on car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder (there are more). These websites inform all breakers linked to their system, and they respond directly to you if they have the part. It wouldn’t surprise me if their site (or other such sites) may include a facility to add a photo. Kind regards, Gareth

As said - Way forward - worth getting it checked with professional equipment. If you don’t, then you are struggling. If this doesn’t show up anything, then you are struggling anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, I’m not claiming this is definitely the issue here, but inefficient batteries can result in spurious warning lights - particularly when the car is not in constant use. If it were mine, I would take it for a run of at least 20 miles in daylight to charge the battery up, and then get the battery efficiency checked, if only to eliminate this as a cause. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Thanks for coming back. Yes, 3 hrs away sounds simply impractical to benefit from any warranty. Its unlikely that you will find any over 5 year old model for sale at a main dealer. Air suspension? The main problem area is generally the compressor (at least with non-Audi’s) and is seldom difficult to sort out. I’m probably suggesting keeping an open mind and doing some homework, rather than being too frightened - full stop. Good luck with whatever you decide to buy, but my (old fashioned) approach is to attempt to spend your money in your locality, and only part with your hard-earned to nice people. Kind regards, Gareth.

But surely, good diagnostic equipment will detect which is the offending wheel, and save you removing all (in caps) the sensors - with a high risk of breakage.

I think Nigel makes a good point, particularly since manufactures seldom suggest service intervals for this, and leasing companies (I guess it was originally a lease car) being leasing companies, are averse to spending on any non scheduled maintenance. A couple of general questions/ suggestions:- High mileage is fine in my book too, but what do you know about the history of ownership of this car? Ex lease (direct) are generally OK (except expect to find a mix of tyres on the tyre) - they just don’t care about such things, but 5 years on lease sounds unlikely, unless it has also been used as a pool car via lease extension. To me, it’s history (as seen rather than what you are told) would be all important to me. Are you buying this within reasonable distance of your home? If not, then in practical terms you can generally kiss good bye to the practicalities of the seller arranging any warranty work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Even more strange now that the poster has not reacted or returned to the forum since joining under this name!

All wheels Kev? Very often, ABS rings as such are not used. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Many thanks for being in touch. A week or so ago, I would have suggested that the simple resolution would be to take a trip to you local/supplying? dealer, and get them to set it up for you. Quickest option now to due your lockdown:- you might have to attempt to do this via. someone at the main dealer talking you through the point from which you cannot proceed. Kind regards, Gareth.

So, OK Graham. Which wheel/s has your diagnostic equipment identified as being the offender/s in the last - as opposed to having the capability of masking the fault by extinguishing the warning light? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve C, Not sure about the set up on the front, but the rear (ABS) is often signalled by a weak magnet built into the hub, and it is this rather than the sensor itself which can be at fault. Similar set up with speed sensor? Kind regards, Gareth.

Strange, I think we have had a recent poster with a similar, but not same, recently. Wonder why you haven’t taken the trouble to fill in anything on your profile. As I say, strange.

Hello Kevin, You will certainly need a hair dryer to remove the old plate, and judging by Derek’s experience -to remove the tape remnants. You will usually find that the plates are stuck on by 3 strips of pads, and as I said, you can attempt to remove as much of the old pads as possible, but with the potential to damaging paintwork. I tend to leave the old sticky pads where they are, since they tend to retain some of their adhesion, and I cannot really see much advantage in removing all of that. Again as said, I simply stick the new pads alongside the old and all is well, without extra effort, no damage and no great downside. Its probably worth getting your new pads from the plate suppliers to ensure they are the correct external useable type. Worth cleaning the body area where the pad goes with meths - also the corresponding section of the plate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graham, It could depend on the professional level of your diagnostic equipment. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, Thanks for being in touch. I take it you want to renew the current number plate, rather than take it off and put it back on again. No screws = stuck on, and they do stick well! To get them off entails the use of a hair dryer and carefully pulling (not levering). Getting the remnants of the patches off? Take it as not worth the effort - just reposition the new patches so they don’t overlap the old. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neil, Come on Neil - catch up! Percy Verance’s contact details are @ perseverance! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mike. It’s always been Bosch Aerotwins for me. Kind regards, Gareth.