Magnet

Thanks Rob, Often measuring 12v at a point is taken as the wiring is sound. However, it must be appreciated that meters read voltage at very small current demand, so the 12v in this case (via. theoretically a single strand remaining) may not support the current loading necessary to start and run the motor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sasha, Does the noise come/go/alter when you take left or right hand bends, or is it constant, irrespective of turning the steering wheel to negotiate bends? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Can you loan him one of your CCTV cameras? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, ‘.......replaced the compressor...’ With new/reconditioned or second hand. If secondhand, it could be a faulty magnetic clutch - quite common. Worth trying EBay listings and you should find replacements there from just under £30 - depending on your compressor male (Delphi or Denso perhaps?) and it’s model. Kind regards, Gareth.

Kwok, Any chance you could reply to one of your other threads to give an answer to whether you have any commercial connection with the link you promoted there, rather than starting new associated threads under different headings?

Hello Tom, Perhaps it’s me missing something, but have you inspected where Steve suggested? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ashley, Worth stripping back the flexible rubber covering over the harness section which links the harness from the bodywork into the tailgate, and inspection the individual wires. Often the source of fractures in wires, and always worth looking at before doing anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, LX7V = Monza Silver. LX7U = Oolong grey. According to my quick Google. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Not sure how much of this is going to be of help to you, and most points would come under the heading of ‘thinking twice’ before committing, but here goes:- Have you actually seen the car, or are you just going by photos? If so, I would not be thinking too deeply about what are realistic and unrealistic offers until you are at a point of deciding to buy it. In-advance offers can seriously pee off sellers, and most will prefer to discuss figures when there is money on the table, and you actually want to buy it. Getting an idea of what you will need/would like to get done is great, but be aware that sellers may not see that they should be reducing the price in accordance to what you want to get done. To be fair, you could be asking them to totally finance your betterment. Investment, and selling on? I would simply forget that possibility and anticipate at least ‘normal’ depreciation, and just hope that it turns out that Covid does not have such an adverse effect on ongoing depreciation as might be expected. Might be worth looking on EBay, and I think you will (as usual) find comparable, lower and higher priced prices examples. If I understand it, the car has covered 7k miles since Dec. ( not insignificant in lockdown) and indeed he bought it since then, and has driven it 5k of those miles - presumably during lockdown. It could be me, but it hardly equates to ‘ not needing’, during his very short ownership. I would be interested in how long the owner prior this one had it. Important to know, since two short term owners can equal problems. ‘...my Pre Purchase Inspection...’. Can we take it that you will be inspection the car yourself, or you will be getting it independently inspected. Service and belts at 108k but no invoices, or bills for parts? I would tend to read this as simply some verbal attraction to sell it. Just some thoughts Dan, but thinking twice doesn’t usually cost anything. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Service history can be important, but can equate to the car having spent half a day at the dealers, have oil and some filters changed, and may, or may not represent how the car has been cared for by the owner.

Any commercial connection with this Kwok?

Hello Ajax, Budget = secondhand parts then? If so, register your wants with on line car breaker links, such as Partsfinder etc. There are more. Breakers who have what you want with then contact you directly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, I think everything, except your mate, is pointing you to walk away, so probably the sensible thing to do is to let your mate find something else to play with -rather than playing with your money. New engine? Why?? Wonder what that means. Different? as in second hand one from another vehicle? So called reconditioned? That engine now suspect? Not a good starting point Jamie. ‘............good bargaining point as they are nothing major’! I would certainly quality this with ‘... hopefully nothing major, but not surprised if it is...’ Let’s hope this forum does not need to wish you good luck, but as they say, ‘ If you can’t have good luck, have bad luck, since bad luck is better than no luck at all’ ! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Penny, Yes, I understood, and appreciate that if it will be inconvenient/unacceptable to be without a car while this is being repaired ( local garage have a loan car?) then I guess you will have to find another. From my side, I still think I would get some costings before moving on, so you know how the economics stack up in terms of what you will get for the car as is + cost of new clutch, compared with the cost of replacing the car. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Penny, Worth spending on? It’s often worth spending to get a job done if the car is otherwise serviceable - irrespective of value. Of course, spending the money to buy something different is an option, but it could be a case of the devil you know. If it were mine, I would at least be getting a couple of estimates before deciding. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Penny, Sorry to hear of your clutch problems. Not sure what engine you have, but we had similar - although juddering - issues with our 2006 model 1.6. In that case it was the clutch hydraulic release bearing mechanism, which unfortunately has for many years been housed inside the gearbox bell housing, rather than outside in days of old, so it was gearbox out and a new 3 part clutch installed. We found Audi clutch part prices too high, so fitted an aftermarket LUK clutch kit assembly instead. LUK would definitely be the only alternative I would consider if not going with genuine main dealer parts. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What mileage has the car covered?

Hello Connor, I can only repeat my first suggestion of steering well clear, ( but you don’t seem to want to do that ) and concentrate on looking for another example. From the standpoint of rejecting this car, you don’t have to worry about anything else at this stage, but obviously it’s your call. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for updating the forum Gary. ‘DPF producing too much soot...’ ( and so increasing the oil level!??) Um! Now here is the simply question to ask them:- Where did the increased oil volume actually come from? I’m sure a lot of folks would be interested in that theory, since if you can actually ‘make’ oil from nowhere, then we’d all be in the money. I think I would rather go with my possibility. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Omar, The longest lasting tyres we have had over 150K plus on an ordinary A3 has been Michelin, but as I said, these become noisier as they wear. Of course, all tyres are now noise rated on labels, but I’m not sure if that is when new or when worn, but the answer should be Googleable. We have tried Continental Contact 5, but they don’t seem to compare wear wise. No doubt you will have other considerations to make in respect of road holding etc., but I guess you will have time for other experiences from here and talking around. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, I’ve noted that even prestigious marques such as Mercedes, are now fitted with Hankook tyres when new. I had believed that they were previously considered only to be ‘mid range’ tyres compared with Michelin etc. Currently, I can only go with the experience of a family member who used Hankook on a non-Audi and was disappointed with the wear rate. I think it might be fair to say that most tyres become noisier as they get to their well worn condition - I have experienced this even with Michelin, but they tend to give better wear rates. Not sure if any of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Conor, My simple answer would be not to even go and look at it! You may like the look of it, but....! . If its been de-catted then it’s likely (probable) that it’s been in the hands of a boy- racer type, and and just too much of a risk in my book. If you do decide to go and look at it, then it will be a bit like going to look at a puppy - your heart could rule your head. Also worth bearing in mind that it’s almost certain that the dealer will replace the catalytic converter with a generally much inferior aftermarket one, and you could find yourself battling with emission issues at subsequent MoTs. Even if the car has suffered from a cat. theft, then obviously the owner has taken the cheapest route to disposing of the car, and then again, the same comments about replacements will apply. I’m sure there will be others. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mustafa, I think your logic on minimising expenditure to essential jobs makes sense, where the expenditure may exceed the car’s value. Yes you can worry about the cambelt, but provided you are resigned to effectively dropping the car’s value to its scrap value if it fails, then you can just carry on and use it. Of course, if it turns out you are otherwise very happy with the car, then you could consider getting it done at that point. Reduce worries to one thing at a time! Good luck with it Mustafa. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Olumide, Of course, unfortunately, we don’t know when the MOT is due, so getting a tyre retailer to give it a good coat of looking at the earliest convenience would be the safest option here. I must say your comment ‘.....You have my full respect on your opinion given in this instance..’ brought a smile to the morning face. Great! Take care, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Olumide, No apologies necessary, and yes I agree, forums survive via. a means of recording varying opinions. I can understand your opinion that you believe you are suitably equipped to make a decision that the tyre is safe and serviceable from viewing the photo, yet I’m a bit confused as to why you then say that it needs to be inspected by a trusted tyre expert - although of course, I agree with that latter comment. I stick with my recommendation (and your suggestion) that it gets inspected, simply on the basis that it is unfair to ask any forum member to be a judge of safety issues in a sight - unseen situation. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. My turn to apologise now:- I would prefer not to quote my bone fides, on the basis that it’s likely to infer that I should be sitting in arm chairs around a room with my contemporaries!

Hello Mustafa, Personally, I don’t like this forum being asked to comment on potentially highly safety critical tyre damage, simply armed with a not very good photo of the damage. I don’t think anyone can offer meaningful advice in this case. To me, the obvious solution to getting the correct advice is to take the car to your trusted local tyre retailers and get expert - sign seen - advice on the tyre’s fitness for safe use. Anything else is simply unseen quesswork. Please, Mustafa, treat this with the respect it deserves - the answer does not rest within this forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alfie, OK - short ownership. ‘....I took it back to the dealer....’ The one you bought it off? If so, they have to guarantee the vehicle being fit for purpose for 3? ( could be 6) months, so if they say the turbo is the issue (questionable?) then they will have to sort it. Audi and engine issues and claim? You will need to consider that the car is now 9 years old and even if it has main dealer service history up to the hilt and complete, I would not be holding my breath on getting any redress there - but yes, worth a go. If it’s that simple, why didn’t the previous owner/s go down that route? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Alfie. Kind regards, Gareth.