Magnet

Welcome Tony and sorry to hear of your issue. If you have two blown bags and a leaking tank then I assume this vehicle was sitting on its backside prior to investigation -? This is an air suspension on back only on this isn’t it. Alternative suppliers may well be limited, but you could try Arnotts website for sort of aftermarket replacements. Would be worth putting your reg. no. into Parts in Motion website and see what they come up with. If it were mine, I’d be getting a second opinion from a trusted local independent before progressing this. Please let us know how you get on Tony. Regards, Gareth.

In case it helps anyone, and as I understand it:- VAG’s recommendation on timing belts changed in July 2023, to supposedly bring the U.K. in line with the Continent. Change - remove the time limit (taken as every 5 years) Current mileage recommendation has been quoted at 180k miles - but I’m doubtful on that - and most likely?? to be in km. - and an inspection at 150k miles - or it’s it Kms For what it’s worth, I would not run a timing belt for more than 5 years unless you are prepared to gamble thousands of £s on consequential damage. Justification:- engineeringly averse stop/start systems, low annual mileages, with consequence of vehicle running at less than optimum temperature, more gear changes etc. all putting additional stresses on belts. Change auxiliary belt at same time. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Edmund, Engine oil - Check in your handbook for the correct grade, since you may find that this 1980s car runs on semi synthetic engine oil (possibly 10w/40 but please check). If so, I’ve used Shell Helix to good effect. Filters:- again EBay will be your best search source, since mainstream motor factors are unlikely to hold stock for this age car. You should find sellers of new-old-stock. Try to find out part numbers. Brands such as Mann, Bosch and others are well respected. Please let us know how you get on Edmund. If you need any further guidance then please come back to us. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Colwyn, Are you enquiring to ensure you have the right spanners for the job, or is it something to do with thread type and sizes?

Sounds like it Mark. Have you had a look on the on-line DVLA Vehicle Check?

Just scan back over the last couple of weeks and pick up posts by Stevey Y and Clifford. The consensus of opinion there is mapping = increased potential for subsequent issues.

Hello Dabir, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the pitfalls of mapping have recently been discussed on here.

Hello again Ingrid, Sorry to contradict 3 specialists, but there is a recommended ‘change at mileage’ limit, but what VAG have done is to remove the time limit and obviously the ‘whichever come first’. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ingrid, As I understand it, you will have to provide a comprehensive engineer’s report on the damage caused, and more importantly, a full report on the belt, it’s mode of failure, and the precise reason it failed. The specialists who complied the reports, will also have to be present at the hearing to answer any questions. All of this is obviously going to cost a considerable amount of funds - fine if you win, but one heck of a loss if you don’t. As has already been said, Audi legal and technical specialists will have been through this before, and will be well versed in getting under a snakes belly with a top hat on and coming out blameless on the other side - just so you know what you will be up against. Before advising further, would you be prepared to let us know the extent of the service history of the vehicle - with dates and mileages and where carried out? Regards, Gareth. analysed

Starting to make sense then!

Welcome J ? This thread is going on 5 years old, and the OP hasn’t been on here for about 3 years. Would you please re-post your enquiry under a new post, giving as much detail as possible. Also, do us a kindness and amend your profile to include a real name - as opposed to J, and your location -rather than ‘town’. Thanks.

Hello David, The ideal would have been to have started it on a fully charged battery and taken it for an ‘Italian tube’ there and then. Simple starting it puts a high current load on the battery, which then dictates a need to recoupe that discharge via. a reasonable run. Then is the time to evaluate what warning lights remain illuminated. Regards, Gareth.

I thank you for your comments Andrew, but your update really leaves me none the wiser in terms of whether your system has worked to any reasonable degree, but thanks for returning anyway. It’s pleasing to hear that you consider yourself to be ‘..enough of an engineer..’ This would at least help more-helpful- than-I members to take due notice of your opinions. ‘I’m an 80 year old pensioner…’. Great, so you are younger than me then. I avoid personal criticism on here or any face to face dealings, based on much earlier experience of when this is resorted to, then the argument is lost. I wish you contentment with all other forums you take part in Andrew, and as always, you are very welcome to err your views on here, as long as they aren’t personal. Take care. Regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Different symptoms now, which suggests a sub standard battery as being at least a contributor. I would recommend you get this checked before moving on. This car seems to have been built during Covid, and likely to have been sitting around for months - not good for batteries. Yes, charge it by all means ( using an ‘intelligent’ charger) and see if you have any reduction in symptoms. If so, it may be worthwhile getting the battery professionally tested - Halfords stores can do this. If it is eventually declared to be substandard then please come back to us if you have respect for your wallet, and we can give you some pointers for good deals. Regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Could be worth giving it an Italian tube by keeping the revs around 3k plus for at least 20 mins. Only costs some fuel. Regards, Gareth.

Morning Kevin, I think it was understood that you were referring to oil changes, and yes technology has moved on. The days of changing oils every 3K miles are well remembered, along with reboring, crank regrindig etc. and yes part exchanging your car for a new one every year. Things have changed and ‘marketing’ has become the key word. Encouraging owners to buy servicing contracts with their PCP whereby the vehicle gets service at c18K or 18 months - whichever comes first, ensures dealers and fleet operators spend as little as possible on servicing and the ‘plan’ becomes lucrative. I could well be called old fashioned, but anyone who runs a modern diesel for c18K miles does not have the vehicle’s best interest in mind, when you consider stop/start systems and oil dilution. What surprises me is that potential buyers have undue respect for ‘full service history’ where the vehicle may spend half a day in a workshop every 18 months, and get abused for the rest of its time. For me, full service history means an oil and filter change at least at 8 to 10k mile intervals. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Allan, The search should have been carried out on Part number - as suggested. Regards, Gareth.

What I meant was if it takes you say 10 years to reach 80k miles, you would be happy not to change the belt until then -?

Sorry Jay, I’ve got to give up on this and wish you good luck.

Thanks for updating the forum Steven.

OK, you really need to find out more then Jay, since quoted wheel width equates to a little over 1/4 inch.

How are you getting on with this Steven?

Wheel width of 7.5 mm??

If you bear in mind that the seller is telling you the truth when you have actually seen the evidence in writing, or when he his lips closed, you won’t go far wrong. If you don’t methodically carryout the pre-viewing procedure I suggested , and have the evidence to hand before you set off to view the vehicle, two things can potentially go wrong:- You will fall in love with it, and buy it irrespective, and you know what love can do. You will regret your purchase. There is a third possibility that you decide not to buy it after spending money and time to go long distances to view it.

P in M are out of stock? Have you tried other suppliers on EBay, and as a last resort - Autodoc? Use the aftermarket numbers as well.