Magnet

Hello Damo, Welcome, many thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. Trying to help, and be proactive, may I step back a bit, and suggest the issue has been complicated by the fact that your car went into ‘a garage’, who probably passed it on to an Audi main dealer because the garage wasn’t equipped to rectify the fault. I can now understand your frustration that one month on, the fault hasn’t been rectified. I have to ask Damo - who is your primary contact here? The ‘garage’, or the Audi dealer? You mention ‘it’s under warranty’ - did you buy it from a main dealer?- if so, one who is now trying to repair it? - or from an independent seller? Is the warranty company giving you support, and progressing the issue. When did you buy it, and is there any finance involved? If there is, then they may be prepared to become involved. Obviously length of ownership, service history, mileage etc. may also influence your case. Perhaps you could come back to us with some more detail Damo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Omar, and sorry to hear of your issue. The Audi dealer’s conclusion that everything is fine, is obviously incorrect, unless every 2022 A3 on the road gives the same noise, and always did from the point when they were new. I guess you can confirm that this noise hasn’t always been present with this car -? If not, the car is trying to tell you something. Recommendation:- Try another dealer, and request a road test with a mechanic before leaving the car with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Omar. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Xenon, Sorry to hear about your issue, and the garage’s difficulty in resolving it. Possibly too simplistic, but I wonder whether the rear end electrical issues are a coincidence, and not actually related to the work done. If it were mine, I would be eliminating the possibility that the issue is due to fractured wires in the flexible harness section twixt the body and the tailgate. This is a favourite place for wires to fracture after many years of opening and closing - particularly in this cold weather. Always worth an eliminating look at. Similar inspection with flexible section leading into the driver door. Perhaps you could let us know how they get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, whoever you are - could you please complete your profile. Bear in mind that this is now a 5 year old thread.

Church village - thanks Anthony.

Hello Samanuel, Did you buy this car after? Kind regards, Gareth.

How did you sort this after Mark?

Hello Phill, Wondered if you have got any further with this yet? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hanees, Did you get any further with this after?

Thanks Anthony. Where in Cardiff was that? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, Two questions still remain within the process of elimination:- Was the new battery coded to the car? Was the alternator output checked? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, Varta was/is the O.E. Supplier to VAG so that’s obviously great. Re. coding. The new battery needs to be coded to the car, so that the BCM recognises it and doesn’t treat charging conditions etc. exactly as it did with the old one. Well worth checking that that was done at the switch over point. Was the alternator output checked prior to changeover to ensure the alternator was increasing the charging to approx. 14.5+ volts? OK, the old battery may now be reading 13.2v in its fully charged condition, but static voltage is not that meaningful in isolation in these overall serviceability with our modern high demand vehicles. Apologies, but I’m not fully understanding your concern statement. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What were the symptoms that led you to get the original battery replaced?

‘Day or two’ suggests it won’t be used strictly for its ‘get you home/nearest tyre retailer’ use. Personally, I wouldn’t be tempted to use any dissimilar wheels on a 4 wheel drive system any longer than I could avoid. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the forum John, and thanks for joining. Sorry to hear of your issue, and as I started to read your post ‘battery’ came straight to mind, as lower temperatures has adverse effects on its performance. Then I see you have fitted a new battery, so …..?? What I would now ask John:- Was the new battery match the correct specification for the car? Was it coded to the car? Was the alternator output checked? What make is the new battery? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Can we take it you want an extra one to use as a ‘spare wheel’ for use if you have a puncture? If so, you are likely to find that it won’t fit into the spare wheel well, and you will need to look for the correct ‘Spacesaver’ spare wheel. Doing regular searches on EBay is worthwhile if you want one the same as you have ( for some unknown-to-us reason) or indeed for a spacesaver one. You could also try registering your want with on-line breaker links such as Partsfinder - there are more. Let us know how you get on Neil. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m sure you will get it soon Deborah. What I meant was, the normal convention is to get the inspection done before you commit to buy, not after. Kind regards, Gareth.

What brand of filters go you use Stephen? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the update Deborah, I would have thought you might have had your independent inspection done before committing to buy, but…….. Kind regards, Gareth.

Stevey y on here, would be your man to give you best advice on this.

Hello Stephen, I can not comment on the 0w 30 vs 5w 30 debate - always used 5w 30 myself, and bought the VAG exclusive brand Quantum Longlife 3, oil for decade or so - once blended by Castrol, but it seems it’s now blended by Fuchs. If you intend to use 0w 30, then you can get Quantum on EBay from CE Automotive ( I’ve bought my 5/30 from them in the past) for a tad under £40 delivered for 5 litres - not much more than my 5w/30. It’s also worth having a look on Amazon since I found Quantum 5/30 cheaper than on EBay. Your 0w/30 maybe cheaper there too. Let us know what you think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Welcome, and many thanks for joining. This may not help much, but I recently looked into this for a friend who was looking for a Skoda Fabia (which was eventually decided against), and I’m only now only going from memory - not wise! but…. I believe the issue can affect vehicles as early as 2009, and I think went on until the 2015 model year. I did find some informed on-line information, but I didn’t save it I’m afraid. Any particular reason for moving away from diesel? Kind regards, Gareth.

It seems I’m out of touch with current tread depths as far as new tyres are concerned. Past experience had pointed me to expect that the tread depth was normally close to 8mm on new tyres, so I was a little surprised to find that the A3’s new set of Michelin Primacy 4 are measuring out at 7mm. This equates to a 12.5% reduction on expected, and if we say I previously hoped for around 18k out of these tyres, I would now expect to only get 15.75K miles. Or look at it another way:- Since the min. legal tread depth is 1.6mm, I now have less than 1/4 inch of useable tread. The other thing I notice is that the circumferential grooves are visibly wider than they used it be, so if you couple the two together, then there must be a fair amount less rubber used per tyre - at the customer’s expense - the customer now paying a much higher price for less! Anyone else have any recent experience of other brands? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James, Could you please fill in your profile.

Thanks Kamran, Could you let us know where Graham Goode is, and let us have contact details please? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, Doing a search on here for ‘water in footwells’ , should give you a fair amount of reading, and tips of what to check. Kind regards, Gareth.