Magnet

Hello Ian, Have you checked this for fault codes which should identify the offending wheel, Could be as simple as ( and often is) a poor connection. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rory, Blinking heck, this thread is rapidly approaching year 7! Looking back, the OP’s photos seem to highlight where to look and unblock the blocked drains - under the bonnet and ahead of the windscreen, having removed to plastic trim cover. Kind regards, Gareth.

Proof positive will be by obtaining the VIN, then walking into your local Audi dealer, and asking the Parts section if they would be kind enough to help you out with a copy of the build record. Arm yourself with a box of biscuits to lubricate the assistance. Don’t try to do this over the phone, it seldom works that way.

What drains Rory? You seem to have jumped into this thread without any prior explanation - unless ‘m missing something.

Any progress on this Dan? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leo, Welcome and thanks for joining. I think everyone’s experience in the same situations will be different, and likelihood of similarities of the outcome will be rare. If it were mine, I would not be concerned with how long it took a garage in Lincolnshire to source the problem, since it is almost certain to differ from yours. Similar with the time to take action on the outcome. Was it covered under warranty? - although it might have been with the OP’s warranty, it might not be with yours, and vice versa. I would suggest you PM Steve and raise the questions direct with him, since he hasn’t returned to the forum for almost 18 months. Perhaps you could keep us posted on the outcome Leo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you Simon, We don’t like doing this, but it has not been uncommon of late that posters either don’t react to suggestions made, or simply just don’t return - a bit like asking a question and walking away! We do try to prompt members in this situation, but again seldom get a response until the warning is issued - then we seldom don’t get a reaction! Has what you have read been of any help to you? Kind regards, Gareth.

Please see Justin’s profile.

I feel for you Jason, and it will be of no consolation to suspect that if this had occurred within 6months/6K miles, your warranty might have treated it as wear and tear, and the repair would not have been covered. Thanks for keeping us informed, and good luck in getting it rectified. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jim, and thanks for joining. Shall we start with the simple solution first:- Since you have bought it remotely and it’s not practical to return it to the Audi dealership you bought it from, does your warranty allow you to take it to a convenient-to-you dealership? I would expect it to. You obviously first have to measure the minimum remaining pad thickness on the most worn pad, and to do that properly, the road wheels will need to be removed. If you or anyone else does that without the authority of the selling dealership, then it could affect your warranty. If it were mine:- e-mail the dealer who sold it to you, and outline your concerns, and enquire whether you can book it in at a dealership closer to you. In anticipation that any dealer may not be able to accept it pre Christmas, and in respect you are dealing with brakes, ask them for agreement to get it inspected by a garage of your choice. Please let us know how you get on Jim. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Min. thickness on inspection? Not sure, but would expect below around 4mm remaining would justify replacement.

Any progress Scott?

Welcome Michael, Sorry to hear of your issue. Regrettably, I cannot see how anyone can isolate the actual problem without access to the car. Probably pretty obvious but it could be anything from battery or any connection there on, ignition switch , wiring, relay, starter motor solenoid or motor itself. As I see it would be best left to a trusted local auto electrician to source the problem for you, unless you are equipped with suitable test equipment and the experience to use it. Apologies. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Duncan, So I guess you have confirmation of that elsewhere, and found someone who will do that, and had some sort of quotation - ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, last question - have you confirmed the air con. is/was working during hot weather? If so, then it would be reasonably to suspect water ingress, but you tell us the carpets are dry.

Hello Manu, Firstly, I have removed the Audi dealer name a location you stated, since this is an open forum, and anyone can read it, so you don’t want to leave yourself open to legal challenge. To answer your questions:- The splitting and wear may just be marginal at the moment, so in effect perhaps they don’t need attention now. My recommendation would be get this car independently checked at a trusted local dealer, and follow their advice regarding whether to change at this time. If they do need changing now, then I would renew both lower wishbones as complete units. Have a look at the Parts in Motion (Exeter) website, input your reg. no. and that should come up with some alternative brands for you. My recommendation would be to buy a reputable brand such as Febi or Lemforder, and I certainly would not buy on lowest price. Price to fit? Ask your local garage to quote you for replacing both lower wishbones. Could you please come back to us Manu and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Angel, As asked, do you keep the air conditioning/ climate control switched on in wet/damp weather?

Welcome Angel, and apologies for the delayed response. Sorry to ask questions, but have you checked the carpets for dampness? Does the air conditioning work, and do you have it activated? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Duncan, Sorry to hear of your problem. The age of engine reconditioners has long since passed, as engines are generally capable of covering high mileages, and usually only meet their demise via. catastrophic failure - as with yours. Those who remain mainly do so to feed the upper end of the classic car movement. In effect, I think your solution has to rest with the salvage outlets , but I do appreciate your concerns in this direction. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, I’m very much in agreement with Steve, but did you buy it from a dealer or a private individual, and does your ‘recently’ fit within 30 days? What mileage has the car done Jason? Do I understand it correctly that you’ve entrusted this 7 year old car to an Audi dealership for its MOT? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marcus, So when you found it was overfilled, that was found by you physically checking the dipstick some 5 months after the car had an oil change service. In effect, it was likely to have been overfilled at that service point, rather than suffering from oil dilution during the last 5 months. Likely - is the operative word, since it’s now not possible to confirm that. For future reference, always check the oil level before start up on the morning after the service was done, to ascertain where the level sits. Re. Replaced oil pressure switch? :- can you please update us on whether that has solved your problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Marcus, How high was high - on a dip stick, if fitted on yours? When was the oil previously changed? Have you considered changing the oil pressure sensor? Kind regards, Gareth.

Good, but back to your question - why wasn’t it performing its function when it let you down? The only way you are going to get proof positive that it is fully serviceable is to get it tested. Halfords stores will do that. Get the alternator output check at the same time, since 12.3 volts is way too low. Until you get both these checked, sorry, but you cannot eliminate either as being a culprit.

How do you know it’s not the battery John?

Ok, if you tried ECP then it would not be worth trying Halfords, since this is where they get their parts from. A couple of useful avenues:- Enter you reg. no. into Parts in Motion’s website. Follow this up with a phone call (not e-Mail) to them if response is still ambiguous. Search out LUK Technical phone number and give them a ring. Be armed with your VIN in case needed. You may find that the DMF is a main dealer part only, but LUK will clarify that. Having done that, let us know the outcome Mo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Terry, As you will know, testing a battery with a normal multimeter makes about the same sense as having an ashtray on a motorbike. Guess you will also appreciate that you will need the new battery coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.