cliffcoggin

Charge away Duncan, providing it is a smart charger. Some can be set according to the type of battery: plain wet cell, or glass mat etc. The old fashioned chargers that do not cut off are unwise for long term use.

How much cash for each item?

While you still have the meter there are two further tests worth doing: /1 Measure the continuity through the element at its terminals with electrical power turned off. No continuity means the element is broken. 2/ Measure the voltage at the element terminals when it is switched on. No voltage confirms no supply. That means you need to work back to the relay, the fuse, and the switch.

If that is the relevant fuse, and I can't think of anything else on the car that might need a 40 amp rating, it may have melted or blown itself apart. I don't know how to extract it without damaging the fusebox but it does need to be tested. Can you get to the terminals with a meter?

You were given the same advice several times but ignored it, and now you complain of sarcasm. I think you owe Magnet an apology.

How things have changed over the years! Decades ago normal practice was to apply Copaslip to the back of the pads (as well as the pins and pad guides,) and rely on anti squeak springs to prevent any noise. So that's something new I have learned from Steve, though I hope I never have to put it into practice.

SAJ. Those big end shells look OK in as far as there no deep scuffs or gouges, but appearances can be deceptive. The only way to be certain is to assemble the bearings and measure the clearances between shells and journals. A product called Plastiguage can do that. You would need to find out the maximum recommended clearance from Audi. https://plastigauge.co.uk/ The uneven wear is because most of the load on the shells is vertical. There is little horizontal load hence the sides don't wear as much as the tops and bottoms. I can not be certain from a couple of photos, but from the evidence you have presented I think it is unlikely the big end bearings are the cause of the low oil pressure. If they were badly worn the engine would be noisy with a distinctive "big end knock", however having gone to all the effort of removing the sump and big end caps it would be worth going that little bit further to measure the clearances, otherwise there will always be that doubt in your mind.

Hello Fabio. That the fusebox has melted twice means there is either a bad electrical connection, or some electrical equipment has been added that is drawing more power than the fusebox is designed for. You don't need me to tell you what a fire risk that is. I suggest you consult an auto electrician.

As a mere stripling of 73 I have only been jet washing my cars for 25 years and they have never suffered any damage, though I must add two caveats: 1/ I use only water, never any additives. 2/ Car cleaning is done religiously twice per year, whether it needs it or not!

In that case I can not help.

Loads of parts tells us nothing. Have you replaced the hub as Magnet suggestd?

A "passive" issue? That's just the sort of explanation that explains nothing. My guess is that the dealer has no idea what was wrong. However it is good that you took it back as the dealer has presumably recorded the event, so if it happens again soon you have good reason to reject the car.

Good news, and kudos to the garage for replacing the pump thereby eating a large chunk of its profit.

Jonathon. Is the handbrake mechanical or electrical?

I am a little confused about whether you are discussing the oil pressure sensor or the oil level sensor, either of which could be defective. Is there an old-fashioned dipstick to first establish if the oil level is genuinely low?

Nevertheless from the viewing angle of the video it looks as the clamp is cutting into the hose. Perhaps that's a false impression because I can not reconcile the long hose shown in the still pictures with what appears to be the short elbow in the video. Maybe that's just the perspective of the view. If it is a genuine Audi part it will have been made of a rubber that will withstand the temperature of its environment, however you mentioned it was vac pipe that you fitted which will have a different composition. Two other thoughts occur to me: 1/ I wonder if the degradation is caused by rubbing as the hose vibrates. Are any securing clips missing? 2/ Did you inspect and clean the stub of pipe that the hose fits over? Aluminium can corrode badly causing a poor seal between rubber and metal.

What sort of hose clamp have you used? It looks like a mis-shapen piece of wire that is cutting into the rubber hose.

Do you know there is more than one fusebox on A3s? My 2007 model had one under the bonnet and another under the dash.

Yes. Don't waste your money on any of them.

Michael. Have you looked at the Q2 forum? It might give you some opinions there.

It will depend how thick the wall thickness of the new hose is. Vacuum hoses have either more rigid reinforcement than pressure hoses, or thicker walls, because it is easier for a hose to resist internal pressure than external pressure.

Don't trouble yourself about the video, your words are good enough. After that I am at a loss so let's hope somebody will have a suggestion.

Sorry to teach granny to suck eggs, but are you certain that all the indicators are working? I read of a similar problem recently where one of the mirror or wing indicator lamps had failed yet the front and rear main indicators were still working.

Daniel. I can not answer your question, but surely a two year old car is still under guarantee from the dealer who sold it to you.

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.