Everything posted by cliffcoggin
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That may well be so, but rarity does not equate to expensive. It still needs somebody who wants that particular model of 18 year old car, and I imagine such buyers are thin on the ground. I suggest you look at the likes of Autotrader etc. Be prepared for the shock of discovering how little your car is valued at on the open market.
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Even official advice varies on when to change the belt. I suggest you change it in the very near future, or preferably yesterday? It's an expensive job but the consequences of belt failure will leave you little change from a small fortune.
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It goes against the grain to say, but it's probably best to quit while you are ahead. You may well be entitled to some compensation but can you tolerate another three months of argument and stress etc. Bear in mind that you would still have spent out on insurance and tax and fuel if the car had been fine so you can not reasonably claim for those items. That leaves just the £275 roof bars. Sometimes we have to sacrifice principles for pragmatism.
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I must be missing something here. You fitted a new throttle body to solve a clutch problem?
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Good point Gareth. A new cap should not cost the earth.
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Looks like another one for the blacklist.
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My wife's Yeti does that so I daresay all modern VAG cars with DSGs do so as well. The car detects when road speed is increasing despite the application of brakes, so it shifts down a few gears to add engine braking. The additional retarding effect is small and the sound of the engine forced into running at up to 4000 rpm irritates me, but it isn't my car so I say nothing. There may be a switch that disables this function, look in the handbook.
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Not so. Unless you have the agreed valuation in writing from the insurer you will only get the miniscule book value in the event of a claim.
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Petrol or diesel engine? You definitely have a coolant leak. That your Audi dealership can not find it suggests you need to find a more competant garage, preferably an independant VAG specialist. In three years of running a 2 litre diesel A3 I only topped up the coolant once with perhaps a quarter litre to make up evaporation losses.
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I have never heard of such a problem so I did an internet search and found these: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/48016/what-is-this-yellow-powder-on-my-exhaust-manifold https://www.odyclub.com/threads/what-is-this-yellow-powder-at-the-top-of-the-muffler.372096/ which both seem plausible. As a chemist I can assure you it is not sulphur.
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Yes you have done the right thing. You may even notice the steering is lighter now, even if the ride is a little firmer.
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Let's be clear about one thing straight away. The change of tyres has nothing to do with the error messages and gear changes. Those are faults in the car which could be rather expensive to fix. Fitting secondhand tyres to a performance car like yours is frankly foolish. Add the cost of fitting new tyres to the cost of fixing the car and you are looking at an enormous repair bill. Is that something you are ready for?
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My apologies. I seem to have responded to a four year old post from Nick without noticing its date. What a silly old bugger.
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Lockdown was four years ago. Have you regularly charged the battery since then. A weak or defective battery may be the cause of your faults.
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The fuel injector pump? Surely they mean the Adblue pump.
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I wondered if coil over springs might be useful here, but after reading up on them they appear to be more for lowering the suspension not stiffening it. Nevertheless it may be worth contacting a reputable company like Bilstein and asking its advice.
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You have not wasted anybody's time Nik. Your information adds to the body of evidence that is accumulating about the problem. With luck and a tail wind you may even get some compensation from Audi if it ever admits to liability. Or hell may freeze over first.
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Forbes. Like Gareth I am curious to know what is wrong with the old pipes. However to answer your question, I don't know of any suppliers that stock your pipes, however there are companies who can fabricate new pipes to match the old ones. An internet search should reveal those nearest you.
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Renato. If "wd, d" means WD40 you would be better served by an ordinary mineral oil. WD40 is evil muck that dries to a sticky gummy coating that could make the problem worse. For those who do not know, WD40 is the 40th water displacement formulation that was tested in the search for a coating that would protect steel against rust. It serves that purpose very well but it is not, and was never intended to be, a lubricant.
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If you need to buy a new battery get it coded to the car else you will have more problems than you have now.
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I see no picture.
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Russell. The prime candidate is a weak or defective battery. I suggest you get the battery professionally tested before looking for other causes of the fault.
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There is no magic solution to this unless you are prepared to spend hundreds or even thousands of pounds on engine modifications. For the average motorist who does not want to modify his car the recommendations are same as they have been since the dawn of motor cars a century ago: 1/ Service it regularly. 2/ Maintain the correct tyre pressures. 3/ Be as gentle on the accelerator and brake pedals as possible.
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I would fit a new chain while I had access, to avoid doing the job a second time at a later date. Chains stretch over time until eventually they are longer than the tensioners can accomodate.
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