cliffcoggin

A few questions first Harry. What do you mean by PCV? Which engine is it? How many miles has it done? Does it have a service history? It's impossible to be definitive about the rattle without getting close to the engine to locate the source of the noise. It could indeed be the timing chain (has it and its tensioner been renewed,) or it might be excessive valve gap (depending on which engine it is). I think it is unlikely to be the turbo. In your place I would use a stethoscope on each part of the engine to locate where the sound was loudest. (That's not a medical stethoscope, it's a mechanic's equivalent. They look similar but the mechanic's version has a rigid steel probe instead a rubber cup.)

Leanne. As Gareth said, take it back to the man that caused the problem, assuming of course that the instruments were functioning properly beforehand. It may be simply a plug that has not been reconnected or it could be more serious.

O yes, albeit half a century ago. My father was a motor mechanic and taught me much of what I know. The first car I bought cost £40, and after some fettling I drove it to Greece and back! It blew a core plug going over the Alps, and the dynamo (remember them?) also failed, but we sorted it and carried on. Happy days.

Railthe. If you can find 15 year A3 in good condition and within your budget snap it up. The important point there is good condition, meaning well maintained and with a full service history. Anything less will likely land you with some expensive repair bills in the near future, and believe me Audi repairs are very expensive. Of course if you can do your own maintenance that will help a lot in keeping costs down. Gareth in particular can advise on that aspect. Having said that, I do feel that a Nissan Micra would be a better first choice. It would be cheaper to buy, cheaper to run, cheaper to insure, and cheaper to maintain. I do appreciate that a Micra has just about zero appeal compared to an Audi. It's up to you to decide on the balance between practicality and appeal.

To the best of my knowledge auto headlights turn on in the dark, not in the rain.

John. I suggest you start a new topic to avoid any confusion between an egr cooler and a loose cambelt. Or maybe one of our administrators can move your question.

A first car for whom? A teenager that has just passed his test has a high chance of smashing the car within a year so it makes sense to get the cheapest car available until the adrenaline levels have dropped. On the other hand an older experienced driver needs to decide what he intends to use the car for, whether that be a shopping trolley, a commuter vehicle, a school taxi etc. It's all a matter of personal choice.

Kyle. If your A3 has a rain sensor for the wipers, as mine has, I assume it can be linked to other electrical devices. What I don't understand is why you want to link it to the headlights.

Friend or not, I'm sorry to say that he has not fitted the belt correctly, and my advice stands. You have not answered Gareth's questions about whether the belt and tensioner were also renewed. The curious thing is that the water pump is normally changed as a pre-emptive measure when the cam belt is changed because of the difficulty, and hence cost, of access to the belt.

You're not giving much information away Chris. What obvious stuff are you referring to? Did you look at the prop shaft bearing and rubber mounting? Are the tyres matched?

I don't know, I have never done the job. Go round the engine and check all the connectors that may have been disturbed or strained when you took the plugs out. If that doesn't resolve the problem I can only suggest to consult a car electrician.

There is likely to be a connector plug on the electrical circuit that has pulled loose or even completely apart.

I can't help in regard to those codes, but in view of a slipping clutch, an oil leak, and a noisy turbo I'd say you have been sold a pig in a poke. Take it back.

Jack. That belt is far too loose and is clearly jumping sprocket teeth. Since the belt also drives the camshaft there is a real risk of damaging the valves or the piston crowns, which would entail a horrendously expensive repair bill. Do not attempt to run the engine, or even turn it over on the starter, until it has been put right. If that means towing it to a garage or workshop, so be it, but the engine must not be run.

Jamie. A dodgy battery will cause all sorts of electrical problems even if the alternator is putting out a good charge. By the sound of it your vendor has put on the cheapest thing available, possibly even a secondhand battery. To not then secure the battery is compounding the problem because side loads during cornering are then taken on the cables. Batteries have securing straps for several very good reasons.

Look further down the list and you will see a recent thread on the cost of clutches. They are expensive enough to make pursuing your vendor worthwhile.

I really don't know if replacing the DPF alone will cure the problem. The lack of a service record is suspicious, as is the oil leak from an engine of only moderate mileage. Whether the cause is merely a defective injector or a totally clapped out engine, the repair will not be cheap. It could be more a question of whether it will cost a small fortune or a large one. I suggest before you make a decision on disposal, that you get the engine assessed by an Audi expert, preferably an independent rather than an Audi dealer with a vested interest.

Hello Anon. What's the mileage of the car? Are no entries in the service record, or is simply entirely "missing"?

Pierce. Cable damage seems to be a common fault, See other recent threads here.

Chris. Is it a two part prop shaft? If so it should have a pillow or doughnut shaped rubber mounting near the middle, and if that is soft or damaged it can lead to vibration.

I agree it's most likely associated with the wheels such as worn bearings, mismatched tyre patterns, or loose wheel studs; however it could also be caused by a worn suspension or transmission joint, so your prop shaft bearing is a possibility.

Belinda. I can't think of one single engine fault that would cause all the symptoms you describe, so I suspect there are many faults. I think the best place to start is to have the basic functions of the engine checked to ensure the rings and valves are in acceptable condition. If they are faulty they could well cause the plug fouling, overheating, oil loss, power loss etc. so you would need a new or re-conditioned engine.

Like you, I reckon the switch or its down connection is probably the culprit. It's the only common factor for both faults.

The clutch thrust bearing lever might have been fitted incorrectly. Can you feel the click as well as hear it?

Neil. I don't know how hard it is to fix those faults, but whether easy or hard you have nothing to lose by returning it to the seller first and try to get him to repair them.