cliffcoggin

You have given us precious little information to work with Roger, so please tell us: 1/ Does the heater fan work? 2/ Does the temperature guage read 90 when the engine is hot? 3/ Has the coolant system been opened recently? (A new thermostat for example, or a leak fixed.) 4/ Do you need to top up the coolant reservoir more than once per year.

That the display shows Drive is selected, yet there is no power to the transmission suggests a gearbox fault. If so it will be a very expensive repair. Is it too late to return the car to the vendor? You have 30 days from purchase to return it to a dealer, but if it was a private purchase the onus is on you to fix it.

No problem John. Every forum is different in the ways reply and quote work. Be aware that all replies go to the forum whether you try and quote or not. As to your lighting question, I leave it to you to wade through the Construction and Use Regulations to find the heights and seperations of lights which are legal. Steve Q mentioned a light bar over the number plate which I assume complied with the regs.

The battery is clapped out. You should get it properly tested if you want confirmation, but the drop in voltage under the trivial load of the ignition system shows me it is defective.

Was the above comment of use to you John? I know you have seen it.

Thanks Adrian. I have seen Erwin mentioned a few times in the forums, but never looked at it.

There is nothing you can do at home to test it. I suggest you remove the cluster and post it to one of the companies that specialise in the testing and repair of such things. ECU Testing is one such company.

Faults could include a blocked heater matrix or a faulty air flap motor amongst others. Best get the vehicle scanned on a decent quality code reader.

Thanks David. So you had to buy a new subscription. This is a nasty underhand practice that is becoming prevalent throughout the motor trade. It verges on deceipt because car sellers never reveal its existence when you buy a car. No wonder car dealers are viewed with suspicion. Arther Daley still lives.

Never did. Another P&R merchant.

If the liquid is definitely not washer fluid then forget about the seals I mentioned. The water leak must be elsewhere.

It sounds as if the steering lock is not disengaging. When turn the ignition off are you still turning the wheel or do you release it first?

Sorry to mislead. What I meant to say was run the washer pump (which is actually under the bonnet) and watch the rear wiper motor and the pipe that runs through it. It is the seals in the wiper motor that often fail.

Was my reply of any help to you Martin?

Given that I can not see which warning light you refer to, I can not advise.

If the car is less than three years old the original guarantee may still be valid, however your signature line shows it be four years old.

Which warning light is showing? Pads? Handbrake? Fluid level? ABS? Brake lights? Look in your handbook.

This is worse than drawing teeth. I give up, and leave it to you Gareth.

Tanzeel. You are only giving us part of the story. Without more detail any diagnosis is going to be incomplete and slow in coming, so how about you tell us more of the background to the problem? Also please reveal how you tested the compression, and where you can feel air coming out?

Do please let us know if you solve the problem.

Thank you Carl. A pity it took a warning to get that response. Whether the mirrors will need coding, or if OBD11 will do the job I do not know.

Possibly the original subscription has expired and you need to buy another.

John. I think you will find that roof mounted driving lights are illegal. There are limits to how high and low such lights may be placed, though I don't know the detalis off hand.

John. Do yourself a favour, throw your meter in the rubbish bin, and then get the battery and alternator professionally tested. Until you can prove that the battery and alternator are in good condition any warning light or message is likely to be false. A defective battery can easily be responsible for all the map and radio problems your car is suffering.

Sean. To add to Magnet's comment, and to answer your question, yes the matrix is part of the coolant system. To use an electrical analogy it is in parallel not in series if that means anything to you. In other words you can have perfectly good flow in the part that keeps the engine cool, but no flow through the matrix part.