cliffcoggin

I reckon you have the culprit in the suspension changes, Maris. Naturally you'll have to put the springs the right way round and then get the toe-in (tracking) reset, but I'm not sure if that will be enough to stop the tyre wear. By that I mean that I don't know if spring changes also need track rods etc. to be different. That's a point you need more knowledgeable advice about than I can give.

Maris. To wear the shoulder of the tyre like that either the suspension geometry is wrong or the tyre is rubbing on the wheel arch. I would get the tracking tested again as a first step. If that proves to be OK look for slack in other suspension joints. PS. Do you have wheel stud extensions or non-standard wheels?

I give up. Without specific and exact explanation of the techniques you have tried I can be of no further assistance, so I am withdrawing from the discussion. Good luck in solving the problem.

Tom. What, if anything, have you actually attempted to resolve the problem in practical terms? None of us can advise appropriately unless you tell us what you have done and what has failed.

DuckDuckGo revealed many suggestions: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-do-you-bleed-the-air-out-of-the-cooling-system.87168/ https://www.fixya.com/cars/t1866067-bleed_coolant_system_audi_a3 http://audifans.net/ftopicp-88989.html http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=127037

Do let us know the outcome of the kit if you get one. It appears to be a common problem so it would be good to know of a home fit solution.

I've not heard of the repair kits. On the face of it they seem like a good idea having multi-strand wires and silicone insulation for flexibility, however the quality of manufacture is going to be critical, and that's something you can not assess in advance. Perhaps buy one for testing before committing to more.

Every engine generates some pressure in the crankcase which is normally taken care of by the EGR, (exhaust gas recirculation,). However if the piston rings are worn there will be a lot of crankcase pressure that needs to go somewhere. I speculated, and it was only speculation, that the plug was to stop that pressure blowing up the dipstick tube. When you mention the manifold I assume you mean the exhaust manifold not the inlet manifold. By bubbles do you mean soap bubbles for testing or something else? If your mate is as knowledgeable as you suggest he can explain the detail. Ask him if the EGR has been blanked off.

The suspicious side of wonders if plugging the dip stick hole is to hide excessive crankcase venting. The more benevolent side wonders if it was to stop water getting in while jet washing the engine.

Sorry, missed that.

Look in the boot for a plastic cord, (I believe it is orange,) behind the lining fabric which you pull to release the fuel cap.

Pity you didn't mention the new header tank earlier. To change that tank the cooling system must be partly drained, which will introduce air into the system. If I was a betting man I'd put money on your cooling system needing to have air bled out of it. Nevertheless Steve's suggestion should not be ignored as it is a much easier problem to fix first.

You may have an air lock in the heater. Try turning the temperature up to maximum for a few minutes once the engine is hot and run it at moderate speed. If any air is shifted you should see the level drop in the header tank. Do you know where the leak is from?

At that mileage the engine should be OK unless it's been thrashed by a previous owner, which is a possibility given that EGR and DPF have been disabled. It's hard to tell from just a one second sound clip but it sounds like the rattle is from the top end of the engine, rather than big ends or main bearings.

One other question. Is it using a lot of oil?

What's the mileage of the engine and do you have service history?

Better safe than sorry.

£700 was the price to have it fitted. It will naturally be a lot cheaper to do it yourself, though it's a major job to do at home.

I somehow doubt we are going to get to the bottom of the mystery by further speculation here. What is needed is some definite measurements of the suspension geometry, so I suggest you initially get the car tracking accurately checked, and if that does not reveal the problem then a body shop can measure the geometry of the whole car from the alignment of the floor pan to the length of the springs

What is it? It has the appearance of a home modification.

Mustapha. Before deciding on turbo repair be aware that a cambelt will add about £700 to the bill, and with 194000 miles on the clock there may be other surprises in store. I suggest you get the car assessed professionally before committing to any repairs.

Well the tracking was definitely wrong to scrub the shoulder off like that.

That advertisement looks suspicious: no engine light on the dash, selling for a friend, brand new MOT, no mention of mechanical condition. However hindsight is wonderful and I'm not sure I would not have been taken in by it. I doubt there is an easy legal way of getting your money back.

Wait a moment, there's something a little odd about this. Why didn't the mechanic who fitted the new bolts set the alignment himself? Why did you take the car to a second person for the tracking?

Sadly an MOT certificate only refers to the car's roadworthiness, and even then I suspect it is not too difficult to forge. To bring a case in the Small Claims Court costs only a small amount, (£50 I think,) but the court can not enforce its judgements. That would need you to then apply to a higher court.