Dan3222

Liking your choices too, especially the TVR 😈 Parent you pleased I cheated??

What are they Craig?

Typo, not 'wasn't' but 'was' the idea behind the Fireblade.

I have just got the A6 back with a fresh test. Just needed drivers side head lamp secured and two new reg plate bulbs. What a result for 165k miles and my first MOT. I have actually got it done 3 weeks early as I am going to the Harewood Hillclimb event (not running my car though) with a few pals. is anybody going? i had wanted to have the vinyl wrap touched up, the roads up here are pretty harsh and there are a few bits now niggling me. But, with the costs of vet bills and car repairs seriously depleting my rainy day funds I think I will now have to wait till spring.

Nope, but I still have the contract!! 😝

Got to be 50 shades of Grey then? Never seen the film or read the book but an ex did buy the book, I remember that week well, can't think y?

Ok, so I have just voted for the RS6 from that list. There is something about that car that just amazes. However, Trevor Trevor Trevor, your title greatest Audi ever built!?! Audi 80 Quattro. It was such a controversial car in its day that changed the way many a car evolved throughout the decades. But, if the title said most awesome Audi, you vote would still be the RS6. 😜

Ok, keep us posted though!

Omg, I am having panic attacks knocking cars of my list, I just can't get it down to 5, I think me and Mr Q better hire a car storage place for the Other 20 cars..... each!! Anyway, here goes but not in any particular order. No I can't do it. This is an hour now I have been trying to do this list so I am now cheating. 5 classics and 5 moderns. Hate me all you like but if I don't do this 2 lists now I am going to throw the iPad out of the !Removed! window!!! Classics 1, TVR (Vixen) 2500 1972 2, MK1 Golf GTI 1.6 3, Tickford Turbo Ford Capri 4, Shelby GT350 (1966-7) 5, AC Cobra Moderns 1, RS6 2, Mercedes G Wagon G63 AMG 3, TVR Tuscan speed 6 4.0l 4, BMW M3 5, Alpha Romeo Giulia. There, now I can go walk the dogs lol

That wasn't kind of the Idea for getting it, the fireblade I mean. Needs a light recommissioning and a clutch. One rainy day I will do it. I never had an XR3I but I did have an XR2I for a short while but Golf Mk1's are definately my favourite. A GP I used to know well had told me a little story, he bought a brand new Escort RS2000. After he had run her in for 500 miles he took her out one early Sunday morning on the M1 near Sheffield. He had it flat out sitting at about 105-110 mph (remember this was back in late 70's). He noticed a small black car way behind in his rear view mirror and thought nothing of it. 1 minute later this car was Almost right behind him so he pulled over into middle lane and a left hand drive GTI over took his RS2000 like it was just cruising at 70. He then took the RS back to Ford, got what he could get back financially and bought a GTI. :-) Ironically enough though I do not regret parting company with the XR2i though!!

Baggy, that was a beauty for sure. I have an early fireblade. Never ridden it though lol.

Any news Gavo?

Trevor, saw the racing green and orange insert Rover 200 yesterday. Not seen one in ages. It had white alloys though!?!

Old school way is disconnect one spark plug at a time. When you have the offending cylinder disconnected the engine will sound no different but if you have one disconnected that is still ok the engine will sound terrible. Safest way to do it is disconnect one and start the car. Then switch off reconnect spark plug and move onto next. change the spark plugs and see how you go. Failing that I do think it's going to be a garage job. Unless someone else can suggest something. Sorry I can't be more help than that.

If you have no fault codes it is worth changing coils and spark plugs as these can fail easily and remarkable not give code logs. i don't know a lot about your engine though but can guess you will have injectors, 8 of. This could well be the culprit. Have you identified which cylinder is not firing?

Have a good luck at the intercooler, it could be split. When was the air filter last changed? Maybe also try a good injector cleaner. If all this is preturbo boost I would be tempted to ensure there is no air restriction or leak on the induction side of the engine. Still think the intercooler though.

I have to agree with Piotr and Paul here, you will have to not be too picky if you want a good C7 for that budget. Mileage will be high!! If your daily mileage is small for the commute etc then you might want to consider a petrol as you will more than likely get DPF issues (basically exhaust issues) if you go diesel. If your miles are high then diesel all the way.😈 V6 or 2 ltr engines are good and reliable but for sure the biggest pile of papers with a car showing services etc is a must if mileage is high. If V6, I would have the autobox, it's just simply feels so right. With the 2.0 you will get a bit more enjoyment out of the manual to eek the best out of the rev range/power delivery. But yes the DMF (Dual mass flywheel) can be a bit of an Achilles heel for VAG products these days. But one-off the latter is cheaper than an autobox rebuild. Luck of the draw though I guess. For your budget you might get a run out C6 fully loaded with less than 100k on the clock and still be the envy of your neighbours. Good luck whatever you decide mate.

I don't even think those discs are 18 months old tbh. Though one winter up here and the discs on my A6 look worse than those. Score lines like that are relatively normal. More important is a lack of discolouration sowing over heating discs. Plus if no feedback through pedal then discs should be good. Copper slip can loose its softness quite quickly unlike silicon grease. However, in my experience any grease based product collects dust etc and this is deemed bad. I still use copper slip because it always works for me on vehicles doing 50k a year or just 1000 miles. But, I service my brakes at least once a year. Cleaning off old lube and reapplying the smallest amount each time. Best practice outways products used in my opinion.

Taper roller bearings on the rear are fairly rare in my experience but.... Gareth, I am more used to working on pre 90's 80's and 70's cars. With drums on the back. Maybe my terminology is incorrect but thevrear bearings I am used to are common with drum brakes. A race and bearing, which is usually angled hence 'tapered' on 70's and older these where held together by a castle type nut and split pin. More recent cars, a faced nut. Years of driving company cars have meant I haven't done much with newer cars especially ones with disc rear brakes, until recent years. Which is what took me by surprise with the T5 rear bearings. KR Dan

I agree with Trevor. Probably just needs a little bit of TLC with a bit of copper slip on the back of the pads where they sit in the calliper. Very easy to do yourself if you have the basic tools. Obviously just don't get any on the disc or pad face, stating the obvious I know.,. But!?! 30 mins max at a garage though. Pics show there is loads of pad material left and discs are in good order. So just TLC

Petrol? diesel? Manual? Auto? Year? More info on what your looking for mate please.

Hi mate, is it just noise? Any feedback through the brake pedal also? is the noise a squeal or a rubbing grinding noise?

Cheers Nigel, been of line for a few days break to clear the mind lol 😏

Yeah I do mean the rear bearings. I experienced this on my T5. Its has the same bearings on the front and rear. You can tell this because the hub has a hole in the centre to receive a drive shaft if My T5 was a 4 motion, but it is not. I had little noise, if any, when driving in a straight line but when I turned to the left I could hear the typical bearing grumble. I was convinced it was the front right bearing on its way out. But when I put it on ramps (my local garage lets me use their ramps after hours 😋) I could not find a fault with the fronts. However, just because I had the van on the ramps I checked the rear axle for wear in the bushes etc and when I then span the rear right wheel I could here bearing noise. Normally a rear bearing would make noise all the time, not just on cornering, but because the bearings are the front design and not a typical tapered bearing normally used on the rear of a vehicle this was the symptom and therefore fix. This is why I asked if anyone knew if the rear bearings on this car are the same as the fronts!? It could explain the noise! Yes Gavo, I have never had an issues or come across an issue with an inner CV joint making a noise on turning before. Only ever a clunking on pick up of drive from stand still or a vibration which is usually at a very specific speed range like 38-42mph. But, as I say everyday is a school day and in your case who knows. All I will say is your car is the best serviced car in the U.K. Right now!! There is a lol in there somewhere mate.

As daft as this sounds has someone looked at the rear bearings? You never know! I don't mean change them to see but just manually check them. Inner CV joints don't really make noise per say when failing and you would usually get a distinct vibration while driving. However, if a bearing inside the inner CV joint is dry then I guess it could make noise I guess. do you have wheel spacers on the car, for a different offset?