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Glad you're nearly sorted. Sorry the last bit isn't working.

Check the fuses!

Waxoil won't stop the corrosion. The alloy insert is there to strengthen the rubber suspension seat. It corrodes from the inside. Leave it and you risk the spring breaking. Easier to replace on a 2WD car. On quattro, you can remove lower shock mount. You need a piston jack to extend lower trailing arm down. Worst case scenario, loosen subframe bolt a few turns too. No need to undo the eccentric bolt either.

That's fair enough. This is a forum, so you're going to get different opinions and using roof lining buttons in my opinion is a bodge, but each to their own. Here's the process on a B6 saloon. Good news is rear window doesn't need to come out. Removing front seats would probably help. You also don't need that interior grab handle too, looks like B6 are screwed/bolted in.

I’m know I’m quoting the obvious here, but insurance business is based on risk. Their business algorithms are set up to minimise losses based on age of person driving, experience (advanced driving qualifications and protected no claims), job, where they live, the car value and insurance rating (1-50 set by Thatcham), and where it’s deemed high risk, then they set the premiums accordingly or simply refuse insurance. A bit like a casino, the house always wins. Health and travel insurance works on exactly basis. I hope you get a satisfactory outcome Tony, but suspect it will be expensive.

Hello, I cant find them on there but thanks for the heads up, I made sure when i got these they were actually new stock not already a few years old like many have on offer. I Got these for my A8 so thought maybe a popular size to offer to members.

You must be knowledgeable and spanner handy if you have rebuilt turbo. Given the time to remove and the likelihood that it could potentially fail again, I opted for a new unit from https://turbo-diesel.co.uk on my old A4 Allroad. Back to your issue. The actuator can be be tested with a hand held vacuum pump if it holds pressure. Trouble is, it’s pretty specialised to remove actuator and reconfigure. On new units they are set up from factory, so basically plug and play. Did you renew the oil feed line to the turbo? The union nut at the turbo is known to be problematic and can weep if cracked off. In addition, did you renew the gasket to the exhaust? What are you using to read codes? VCDS would be software of choice and I’m sure would log actuator fault if low boost.

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew

A ticking noise started on my car but it was hit or miss like i’d turn off my car go chill and then when i’d go back the ticking was gone then later on when i’d start up the car the ticking is back and just yesterday while i was driving it was ticking then the ticking went and a steering malfunction light came up so i went and pulled over started up the car again. And saw all driving assists were turned off. If you’ve experienced this please help me cause i’m struggling to diagnose the issue and people have been telling me it’s the steering rack but i’m not sure.

Price Paul? Regards, Gareth.

SD card will only work if sat nav is enabled on the MMI. If it's not enabled then its roughly a £500 job at the main dealer.

New owner of Audi S1 year 2017, no working sat nav. Local service garage advised of sd card off amazon or ebay but don't seem to find one. Any suggestions please

Glad to hear you got it sorted Flatspell. To be fair, unless the garage specialise in Audi's, they may not know about this specific issue. They'll just replace the part that's likely to be the issue after a diagnosis scan.

If it is secondhand parts you want go to a car breaker. Why the clause about upgrading?

Hi I have a brand new still in unopened box rs3 style front bumper to fit a3 8y all models apart from the rs3. £450 I bought this for a project car myself and my son are building (his 1st car). It’s a a3 8y s line 1L with light front end damage. We are building it as a Rs3 replica and have decided to use original rs3 parts.

Read a similar error, that was eventually traced to a vacuum leak off the EGR cooler. I think at the very least you are going to need VCDS and then measuring blocks which basically gives you live data. The fault code is one thing, but you need to understand why, and live data should help pinpoint. This was on 2010 model. https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/378244/

Go to a professional body shop. Had a similar issue with an old 2012 A4 Allroad. It’s classed as Platinum Grey 1RR, however will no doubt vary across models. When I spoke to Audi main dealer, it didn't even show up as a code. Phoned a few body shops and ones that are Audi and Porsche approved and they said it can’t be blended. Entire panel would need to be painted. As it’s matt/satin effect, it’s notoriously difficult to achieve consistent effect with rattle cans. Hope that helps.

ErWin, pay to view. You can download and print off pages you need. Given only 2018, then you’re going to need VCDS, plus if you buy additional parts, bear in mind they need to be new, otherwise you get into security component protection which only ODIS dealer level software can clear.

Hi, so same happened to me… A7 50tdi 2019, all codes matched the document from previous posts, Audi UK pays for everything. Dealership said that the issue is known for about half a year and I should get back my car on Monday. Buckinghamshire

Andy - Apple CarPlay is the app that enables your iPhone to work with the mmi. It's more than as Bluetooth connection it displays apps on the mmi screen and let's you use your iPhone apps on the mmi screen. If you plug in through your USB it should ask if you want to use carplay. I suspect that you also have wireless carplay capability - either way it makes your iPhone much more integrated with your car and you shouldn't need a USB stick.

Any comments on the above responses Mandy? I know you have seen them.

Worth trying Ali-express (China). I had a set from them for a non-Audi and was pleased with them. Regards, Gareth.

You could try contacting these guys - https://www.hazzydayz.com/ - they do a lot of VAG work with various hardware and software options. You probably have mmi navigation plus and I don't think that there are many hardware options but you can get map updates from people like the one I mentioned above or just google "mmi navigation plus updates". With a 2019 build you might have google maps as standard. I generally use android auto and waze for navigation - it's much better than the built in option.

Not necessarily so. As I mentioned in an A6 C5 topic I only recently discovered the previous owner of my car had removed the EGR valve, however I had no problems with emissions when I put the car through its MOT in September. I realise this may not be the case for everyone but that's my personal experience if it's any help.

The stink may be unrelated to the DPF. For example paint or oil or underseal spilt onto the exhaust will slowly be burning off. There may even be a dead animal decomposing.