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Hi can anyone help me with my radio code .I have recently bought the car and the battery went dead. as its old so when I put the new one on the radio is in safe mode. The code in the book didn'twork and its on 1 now so not goingto get it locked out.Also the mmi screen is blank.is the a rest procedure for that. Any help much appreciated

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Yes it has a Hex at the end of the thread. It’s almost like it runs out of thread before you can torque it up.

Hi, Selling my 2013 A8 Black 4.0 TFSi, 91,000 miles. In great condition, MOT till October 2025. If any interest i have plenty of pictures. £11250 Im in TA6

Nor the 2nd for me Jake.

Hello Tom, Returning the car to the seller 5 months on??? 90 days is a typical warranty period. Your issues maybe (just maybe) associated with your statement ‘…done barely any miles on it…’. On the basis of eliminating simple low cost investigations, it would be well worth getting the battery efficiency checked - Halfords stores will do that. Spurious messages are often associated with below par battery efficiency, and your situation will be aggravated by periods of lack of use. Take the car for an approx. 30 mile run before getting Halfords to report on the battery’s efficiency. Please let us know how you get on Tom. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time.

Definitely the best option. As let's face it, the screens got to come out anyway.

Thanks for the response, know of any good businesses to send one off to? Thanks!

Hell Ashleigh, I’m sorry to hear of your on-going issue, but to be honest, I’m not at all surprised, and although my reply isn’t going to help your case, it may well serve as a deterrent to others who may think about following the same line of purchase. As I see it, the dealer should have sorted out the U.K. registration before (in caps) advertising the car for sale. In your case he has ‘got away with it’ by not completing the necessary involved work before selling you the car - without U.K. title. You are now realising that this is a rather involved process which depends on your (in caps) effort to sort out. Moral:- never buy a vehicle without a U.K. V5. I’m sure you will sort it eventually, but this responsibility should not be yours. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Lot of car for the money. Personally, I’d opt to change the oil every 6-8k miles. This will be a Tiptronic transmission 8-speed and generally bullet-proof, but again, if it were me, get the fluid changed. Yes, Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but ZF who make them have a service kit. Turbos, your guess is as good as mine. Don’t hammer it, and if you do, make sure it’s warmed up.

Great job!

Hi ALL I have an Audi 80 Cab (1999) (1.8 ADR) and have a warm start issue. I have systematically gone through all parts on the injection system (MFC, Hall, knock sensors, pump, filter etc) and electrics. Appears to be starved of fuel, the next plan is to inspect/replace injectors. Appreciate any thoughts, I have health stock of bits and happy to share stories, I own her for about 20 years. Thanks John

Not sure changing tyres will make that much difference. I think the car lacks insulation. I did try stuffing the boot well with towels to see if it helped - it didn't. Lack of insulation combined with low profile tyres is the cause I suspect. I had forgotten I was still on this forum. I'll be leavinfg it now. Good luck.

Hi. A6 C7 Ultra 2.0 TDI.2016. Under heavy acceleration the glow plug light comes on and goes into emergency mode. Resets during the ignition cycle. Could anyone help me to sort this problem. P029900 Coolant pump for charge pressure cooler, OPEN CIRCUIT. 0x00646E unknown fault code

I have used the brembo 17z 6 piston ones, they bolt to the hub carrier but I had to use a 16.5mm drill on the old mounts, then a nut and bolt. I also had to change the bolt on bearing and hub as it is a wide track car, so I used standard bolt on audi a6 c5 parts. I used a Mercedes c class 330mm discs, but had to drill the wheel stud holes from 12mm to 14mm, also enlarge the centre hole a tiny bit. The brake hose will be probably for a porsche cayenne. I can imagine it being easier on a standard track c5, with bolt on bearing as that wouldn't need changing.

For legality it's better to have the adblue working so try cliffs way first if possible. As getting it mapped out is technically illegal

Thanks. I have no idea what's causing this drain, it was back at 10% again this morning, regardless of what I thought the other day 🙂 I've got a lot to do, my passenger seat stopped moving, but that's OK as I have to put the original box in both seats since the memory doesn't work when I swapped them. Got new headlights, the MMI screen is a mystery to me as to how it's held in. I think I need an expert to solve that battery first, in England it's not too bad, but Finnish winters are hard on batteries, well, everything really 🙂

This is fantastic advice thanks for this. I'm going to pin the post for other members 🙂

To add I doubt any Audi dealer would fit a performance chip.

The door issue could be an issue with the striker unit. Older audis suffered from this like the A6 C5. The seat movement could be an issue with the switch.

Could it be an issue with the thermostat?

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up, as it could be an issue with the control module.

Spoiler will definitely be bonded on.