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Hi, this may or may not be of interest to anyone, but I have finally managed to fix the issue about a month ago. Here's the summary: Electronic parking brake on the left side stopped working more than six months ago. There was a warning on the dash ("parking brake malfunction") accompanied by a loud beep every time I turned the ignition on. I have unplugged the wire from the electric motor on the left. The same warning remained on the dash. Parking brake on the other side was working correctly. Then life and other things got in the way and I did not do anything to rectify the issue, except for making sure that the wire does not dangle under the car and the socket on the electric motor is waterproofed (plastic bags and zip ties). I continued to use the car daily. I kept using the parking brake as and when required and it was still holding the car even on fairly steep inclines, even though it was only working on one side. I finally got some spare time and replaced the electric motor and also the plug with about 20cm of wiring. Apparently it is not unusual for this to rust and cause issues. I only bought the cheapest plug and the cheapest parking brake motor I could find on ebay (probably about £30 total). Fitted the parts, but the parking brake still did not work. As it happens it was engaging, but not disengaging. So in the end I replaced the brake caliper. Again, the cheapest one I could find, which was about £60. I replaced brake discs and pads at the same time, but only because they were quite worn (this was not related to parking brake issue). After I replaced the caliper the parking brake issue was resolved. The warning disappeared from the dash and I did not need to reset any faults with the code reader. Also, the parking brake is now almost silent when engaging/disengaging. To the point that when I first tried it after fitting the new parts I thought it was not working at all (it was fairly audible before). It has been about a month now and all is well. I almost miss the loud beep that accompanied the ignition being turned on every time when the fault was still present. PS. If anyone is replacing the rear brake discs, there are some videos and guides on the internet that tell you to remove the brake caliper carrier, but you can actually wiggle the disc out carefully without removing the bracket or damaging the disc.

thanks steve i have a journy down to sussex in 3 weeks would you advise a new clutch to be fitted as this has only happend and havent drove since

Hi ring the dealers and ask if your car was fitted with stop start, you will have to give them your VIN and if its not equipped with stop/start you are away, only piece of advice is buy branded and not some random make of battery that is dirt cheap and won't last long, the battery will need to be registered to let the ECU know it has a new battery. Steve.

Hi yes but the new module would have to be coded to the car, try and find a local car audio specialist who will be able to offer a hybrid solution rather than get in to major removal of the existing unit. Steve.

Hi sounds like the Haldex unit in the rear diff is on its way out this would put the car in to limp as its controlled electronically by a module. Steve.

Hi at a guess you have no subscription to the emergency call system its just their way of badgering you in to subscribing again, try having the car scanned to remove it, if its anything like my Passat I had to delete it a couple of times and they now have the general idea, not subscribing so it has not ever come back in over a year. Steve.

An impossible question to answer because you have not revealed the brand in question.

Thanks Scott. That's useful information.

Welcome Don, My first port of call would be to return the car to whoever carried out the front end bodywork. If both horns were working prior to this then it’s reasonable for you to expect them both to work now - unless one was damaged - at which point it should have been renewed. Believed each to be behind the spotlights (if fitted) or the plastic grilles if not. Regards, Gareth.

Hi, My 2015 A3 has about 15,000 miles on it. Ever since I got it about 6 years ago I notice a faint coolant odor after a drive. Never had to add coolant. Someone told me that is common with this engine. Doesn’t really bother me, just annoying. I replaced the reservoir’s cap with no success. Appreciate any suggestions. TIA

Happy to share further photos if required.

The vendor has not returned to the forum for three years so it may pay you to direct message him.

Thanks. Mine has heated seats but not the wheel.

If it’s an S7 TDI it will be an 8 speed Tiptronic box. These can easily handle the torque. I check it’s in dynamic mode, etc. ZF-8 boxes have a service kit, so I’d be inclined to do that first before you go anywhere near a remap. Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but do it 60-80k miles. I follow a few companies, so Decimal Tenths are Newcastle based, or Darkside Developments in Barnsley. Probably the only companies I’d entrust the work too. They are both VAG specialists. For the Tiptronic service, then Mackie Transmissions, Glasgow.

Hi everyone, I have the usual coolant leak from somewhere on my 2013 q7 3.0 tdi. It doesn't seem to lose it when just running around on short journeys , but on a 50 mile trip or something like that it loses some coolant. The car runs absolutely fine and at the correct temperature. Has anyone else has this type of symptom? If so ,what was the fix? Everything I read online is say about looking in the v for coolant but you can't seem to see anything as it's so tightly packed in there, the only place I've seen coolant is down the right side of the waterpump as you look at it dripping down slightly, the car was facing slightly down hill and leaning that way. I have also noticed the pump has a broken bolt on it so will taking it of to remove that aswell. So not sure if it's coming from that, but it doesn't look like it. Thanks 👍

Hi no you have to change the whole unit.

In general, hybrids will try to maintain a high state of charge so that electric reserve power is always available, however many other factors can influence when or if the electric motor will run. Perhaps yours is behaving normally, and you had not previously met the conditions for petrol to override electric.

Welcome Nick, If we can help we will. Regards, Gareth.

Clifford Thanks yeah this the problem I am having I have had a look and I have to say unless it's a quattro they don't seem to be worth a lot not that I am sure I would be selling it but also getting body parts is proving really difficult but it seems a shame to break it for parts.thanks for your feedback.

Hi just thought i would let everyone know and stop all the confusion on the virtual cockpit with headlights in Europe. just been to 9 countries on a road trip and never got flashed for my headlights. left them on auto and turned off high beam assist . started the car in France and the headlights automatically adjusted themselves gong by the gps. switched over from mph to kmh in mmi. enjoyed our first long journey in the A4 of approx. 1900kmh. it took me ages to get response from Audi about headlights and found out from my neighbour who works for VW. happy travels.

Hi Dan, thinking off the top of my head, could there be a leak perhaps, but assume that would have been checked when you went for a re-gas? Another option potentially is the a/c condenser if it's not blowing cold. I'm sure other members will chip in with thoughts/comments but good luck and hope you get it fixed, especially for driving about in the current heatwave! Nick.

Yeah see when I brought it the guy was giving it beans and nothing was untoward so that’s why it’s very puzzling, thanks for replying am due to get car scanned in the next couple of days so will give an update then

The trim pieces have been kept in case anyone needs the set, I have the 4 door pieces too and apart from a few clips they are in good condition. Once its running again, it will be off to get a roll cage made, as there's nothing available to buy.

It was the internal filter not supplied, got one on Amazon for a fiver. Even came in an Audi package as OEM part.

Hi All - sorry if this has been asked before - I've just bought a beautiful A6 C7 model and after a few days I have had the Screen go black - I know this is a common fault and an easy fix. After pulling out the Dash and the Folding Unit. I can see that the wiring has been repaired before, with some frayed and snapped cables, but attached to the 8-pin plug were 4 wires, 2 of which had snapped at the plug connectors. So I have tidied up the Split Cables, re-soldered and heat-shrunk them so they are a bit more protected. I've also ordered a new 8 Pin Plug - but now I have no idea which wire goes where in the plug...! Does anyone have a picture or a Diagram of where I need to re-plug in the wires? TIA!!!