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Hi all , wondering if anybody can shed any light when i get to about 40-50 mph i start to get a whining noise from thee front wheel drivers side i though it maybe wheel bearing shook the wheel but seems to be stiff no play , this has happend since it went in for brakes done i had a look at the disks they don't seem to be warn any different than usual. cheers Audi a4 Avant b6 2.0ltr petrol 2002

Thanks for the reply Andy

Thanks very much Steve

Hi All good people! I retrofited my halogen headlights from standard to auto So I change control switch All it's coded property and works correctly My problem is when I try dimming my dashboard lights on control switch, knob doesn't respond so in night time it's bit too bright dashboard for me and I can't adjust. any one know whats problem can be ? Maybe miss some coding ? thanks A3 Saloon 2015 UK

Hi, the sensors do fail alot on the MK1 TT because of the age of the car, I had to replace my oil pressure sensor last week, I would start with replacing the sensors, they don't normally cause issues with the turbo, it's best to change them anyway, they are not expensive, I would then look at the n75, the pipes are notorious for splitting or even collapsing, I replaced mine with silicone ones, check the PVC valve and the big pipe coming off the turbo

I'll let you know..cheers

‘For Sale’ section James. You must decide whether to advertise it now with ‘Available after September’, or leave it until September to actually advertise it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James, we know Kev is not shouting. Might be worth trying capital J for James, and capital S for Sussex - as is the normal convention.

Thanks Steve, Bargain for someone. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, The second row is perm live, the bottom row is switched live / accessory. Not sure if yours has parking mode, so you may only need one positive connection but depends what your Garmin model is / says in the manual If you are using piggy back connections then the 2nd fuse covers the amperage for your device.

Thanks again for the info Peter 👍

Any update Robert?

Thanks James, but if it were mine, I would still be getting the battery efficiency checked, along with the alternator output, to be better equipped to know what is likely to be ahead of you, rather than experience issues in the future. Kind regards, Gareth.

when there is a leak in the foot-wells i always look at wiring plugs that go into the engine bay. common on some cars is where people ran amps via a hole and water from the bay drops down them get some bottles of water, get someone to sit in the car and start to pull water around places to see where it coming from

wont be doing on drivers side, as seat then can go up and down

i have to say i read this out to 6 people in my office and one girl nearly chocked on her gum lol, glad sorted

Based on this information: https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/137643-Little-button-below-and-right-of-fan-speed-control?p=1037665#post1037665 ... It looks like the indicator on the left would light up if the auxiliary heating is activated remotely, or via the MMI. Whilst I've seen plenty of references to fuel-based aux heating systems in VW manuals, I've not seen it available in any of the VW group cars I've had. Suspect it's more for the colder bits of Europe.... Someone here will know more. Do you have this feature on your car?

Thank you, done it 🙂

So to start, i have a 2008 Audi s5 with the CAUA 4.2 v8. It has 100k miles and about a month and a 1/2 ago it began getting misfires in cylinders 1 2 and 4, so i went about diagnosing and checking the plugs and coil packs and it wasnt them so i moved to injectors recently and took apart the intake manifold, pulled both fuel rails and replaced the 3 injectors on 1 2 and 4, did a carbon clean and replaced the left sides o rings but not the right injectors o rings. i also didnt replace the teflon seal or the intake manifold gaskets when putting it back together, so i finally get it all together and the misfires on 1 2 and 4 are gone but now its cylinder 5 along with a lean code (whats different from when i bought the car - cold starts are a lot quieter, doesnt scream like it used to, much slower, almost sounds muffled when its straight piped, feels like its running on 5 cylinders not 8 and lastly when i do a pull above 4k rpm, a flashing engine light comes on for 5 seconds and then goes back to a static engine light) only ideas i have is to take the whole manifold off once again and replace the other side of fuel injectors o rings, and replace the two intake gaskets. TLDR - 3 misfires, replaced injectors now all 3 misfires gone but new one on different cylinder and lean code. drives the same before fixing.

Well, I ran the adaptation last night, and have been for a drive today. For sure the throttle response is massively better than it was, and no light. However, it was sometimes going a week without showing so time will tell. Will let you know 🤞🏼

Took the plunge and did something I’ve wanted to do for a long time… proud owner of an S3… what a car.

Wanted- a6 4.2 v8 , anywhere in UK! Thankyou

Did you solve this is have the same problem

Gordan. Joe has not returned to the forum for eight years so it's unlikely he will reply. However I thought his final report fully explained the problem and its cure quite well.

Just fyi - I can remap my car up to an additional 25% with no increase in premium through Admiral. Ordinarily, that would be the limit of what is achievable and would be fine. In this case, of course, it is more like a 40% increase that is achievable. I was told by Admiral that was uninusrable and when I asked Phantom Tuning in Kent if they could add tweak the map so that it only upped the power to 360bhp they said they were not able to do that. Fair enough - I am sure there is a tuner out there who could, but it might be more expensive. Shame as for a one off cost of £250 and no increase in insurance premium (and konwing the map was well within tolerance and yet would still be noticeable) I would have gone ahead.