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I got a weird one. I'm fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem to pull in to my local independent shop and tell them this and this need to be fixed and replaced. But this has me stumped. I have a 2016 Q5 2.0 engine that went bad with carbon deposits yada yada... So I stepped up got a new motor from Power Engines it came all crated up they were super helpful pleased with them. My mechanic moved all the bits and reattached them to the new engine from the old. Everything had been working just fine on the old engine up until I put it in storage for close to two years due to a compression issue (Carbon ring deposit blow by) Well here is the problem granted this info is incomplete and secondhand. The mechanic gave me the keys I drove it ten, to fifteen miles and had to have it towed back. The whole time it had a skip a tumble in power it hated slow acceleration between 1600-2000 rpm kind of missing and not solid power. Well the dang High pressure fuel pump apparently broke loose. Mechanic thinks it was pumping air and not fuel and that the low pressure fuel pump wasn't providing enough fuel. He ended up replacing the High pressure twice (for a total of three the original plus two replacements) then the low pressure fuel pump once and spark plugs. He said twice the high pressure fuel pump blew, and the low pressure was fine but replaced. Well I got the keys back and something isn't right there is still a power tumble similar to the original problem, but the weirdest thing is I can floor it and it will not speed up. It does it between 40-50mph once it got stuck at 40 twice another around 46 or 50mph five times I've seen this but it's not always. If I usually back off and reengage the pedal it will then gain speed but just so weird. What am I missing what did my mechanic do wrong..?? Where do I start in trying to diagnose..??

Can I say that I was grateful to both members for their replies

hi guys,this is probably a long shot but im looking for an engine for my 1998 a4 2.8 [engine code ACK],i bought the car through the forum a few months ago and got it shipped here to ireland,it has low compression on bank 2 cylinders so a replacement engine is my plan,if anyone knows of one for sale or point me in the right direction id really appreciate it,thanks Greg

As far as I know it's just the strainer/filter, and a new gasket for the transmission sump. This is quite a good video - regards the transmission brace especially. If it's on the ramp - then check the prop-shaft mount for any play.

Now free to anyone who can collect, if not they will be going in the scrap pile.

The car will be on standalone engine management, so the fuel pump will be run from the ecu via fuel pump relay, so a lot neater. Everything has been taken out so far, even the door wiring as its going fully stripped. More progress in the near future once parts arrive.

That's not a symptom; that's supposition. Is it the same temperature from every vent, or just one? What happens when the temperature setting is raised to hot.

Nice, please keep me posted on how you get on as I'd be interested in deleting mine if it's knackered. What are you doing about the fuel pump?

Hi I would get someone else to check if the system has any gas in it, most independent garages have a decent aircon machine and will check it by seeing if it has ay gas and then pressure checking the system for leaks chances are its either run low on gas or has a hole in the radiator either way Cliff was correct when he said they can't block, therefore I would give the ZOONS at Halfords a wide birth. Steve.

The A/c has stopped working. If it’s a hot day it just blows warm air regardless if it is set on cold.

Since this is totally manual work, there is no equipment to show, but here is video link of testing it: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tlhkDMtlmtA You will find more videod there.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap. Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?

A chassis or steering misalignment will make the car unsafe to drive, so you really should care about it. Presumably NZ has some sort of compulsory road worthiness test? If it is anything like ours the car could fail the test.

Hi, I’ve recently got a second hand A1 2012 S-Line 3dr. I took it to Halfords and they have advised I have a blocked Air con. I’ve just replaced the the air filter and cabin filter as they were past due. Does anyone know if I can unblock the A/C myself and if so how to do it and what I’m looking for. Many thanks in advance

it has a bent steering arm so drives like it has a really bad alignment, gets good drift angle though, tyres r shredded to bits after i couldnt help my self but drive. i think theres no other option but to bend the hinge, dont really care about the other stuff its not as major as this for me. these r the only photos i got of the damgeCCBDCD6D-3782-41B3-BCEF-C091D13D42DE.mov IMG_3745.mov

i dont know how to reply i think i accidentally did it wrong, had wroten something up

Recently had a few of these Audi Gamma & Delta on the bench for a Bluetooth retrofit. Personally, I think this is one of the best upgrades for a classic car You keep the factory radio, 100% factory look, but gain modern Bluetooth functionality. Curious what others think. Do you prefer keeping everything completely original or making hidden upgrades that improve usability?

Bryce. What was the point of asking a question here if you do not return to read any replies?

Good day all, I have a 2.0 TFSI with the ZF 8 speed auto ‘box which I intend to get serviced within the next couple of months. Is this just an oil and sump/filter change or is there mechatronic seal (for the wiring) on these? I’m going to get the oil changed in both diffs and the transfer ‘box, is there anything else within the drive train that needs looking at while it’s on the ramp? Mileage is 65,000 miles.

Sounds very much like an internal amplifier issue to me. We see quite a few Audis with exactly the same symptoms. Amps has to be resoldered correct way

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my post its much appreciated. I do not know how accurate this snippet of information an Audi technican told me but here goes The electric fuel pump is designed to be submerged in fuel to help cooling issues so even when 0 miles is showing there can still be as much as 7 litres still in the tank. Also apparently in Germany running out of fuel on the Autobahn is an offence so this also allows the driver some 60 miles to refill should the car say 0 miles. Either way thanks all at least I know Ive not been short changed with a smaller fuel tank!!

Hi all, New user here, hoping someone can help me out with this 😁 I'm trying to map out some extended diagnostic pids (uds mode 22) for my a4's ECU (Bosch EDC17). I've already found a few through cross comparing the pids my ECU responded with with carista: 22114F: DPF soot mass (g) 221156: Distance since last DPF regeneration (km) 22115E: Engine runtime since last DPF regeneration (hours) 221100: Coolant temperature (°C) (Hope these help any users in the future) These are tiny in comparison to how many I managed to pull (thousands!) so does anyone have any others? Thanks for reading! Cheers, Rad4

looks like a 63 litre tank. When I fill up at my local Shell a couple of the pump clicks off very early and I can get 4 or so litres more in if I wait 10s after the first click off and don't go full beans on the trigger. I asked my local dealer and they said the pumps were to sensitive and asked the Shell garage and they said the pumps only click off when they detect back pressure and this must be as a result of a restriction in the pipe to the tank. I'm past the point of caring I just fill to the first click off each time and I fill up when my yellow tank comes on if I'm away from home of is it's below 1/4 if I'm on my way home as my local Shell is 28 miles away on the road to my home. Enjoy the car.

Welcome Steve, 10 litres remaining when the light comes on seems a reasonable reserve to me, and certainly not ‘crazy’ in my book. Consider if you lived in a rural area where filling stations are few and far between. To be honest, I cannot follow your logic in believing it is an overkill, but irrespective of that, the car is simply going to use the same amount of fuel, wherever the low fuel light comes on! Regards, Gareth.