Headlight Distance error and Stability light on

[Chalky13]

Hi all, 

Our A1 threw up some fault lights last week, with the headlight distance adjustment error and stability control lights coming on. Within seconds the glow plug light started flashing and then the EML came on.

I did an initial online search and it seemed to be a sensor on the lower arm maybe that caused the lights and stability issue. I’ve not been able to find the search again since.

Further research says tyre pressure and several other things.

I’ve had the fault codes read and it’s come up with these

P0641
P064100
P15A000
P181C00
U100800
U111100
U111300

Would anyone have a suggestion before I end up throwing money at this I could do with not spending? 
The car drives fine but seems to have the turbo restricted as the oomph is missing

I’m planning on getting the glow plugs done as they’ve pinged the lights on before anyway potentially, and when starting the car it takes an extra few seconds to start to what it did when we got it a year or so ago

[Chalky13]

Not making a great deal of headway in my searches, if anyone has some pointers, it’d be much appreciated .

thanks 

[Chalky13]

Nothing at all? Thanks

[Stevey Y]

2 hours ago, Chalky13 said:

Nothing at all? Thanks

Hi have you had the battery checked as some of those codes are low voltage.

Steve.

[Chalky13]

Hi Steve, I haven’t. With the slightly slower cold start and no stop start working, that makes sense. 
Could that relate to the headlight and stabilisation lights too?

I will get the battery tested ASAP, thank you ever so much for that 👍

[Chalky13]

Hi Steve. Still not got to the garage due to work commitments and closed today.

Ive plugged my VD500 in again and this code popped up, P0401 which suggest EGR valve. I presume that would trigger the glow plug light and EML, plus make the car restricted as there is no turbo now.

From speaking to other diesel users at work, seems to be the issue of the moment as several have their EGR valves down too. Is there maintenance to do, IE long runs or giving it a blast, or is it just something that needs changing?

thanks again, in advance 

[Steve Q]

Yep egr would throw up a eml light. You can try to get the egr cleaned. However the best option is to replace it with a genuine one. Cheap aftermarket ones can be of questionable quality 

[Chalky13]

Hi Steve, the reading for the battery is 12.61 volts 

[Chalky13]

And checked it when running, it’s fluctuating between 11.98 and 12! 

[Chalky13]

I’ve bought a new battery and fitting that today, hopefully that will resolve some of the issues.

 

I suspect the EGR valve also needs replacing as the car is becoming more limp ish 

[Magnet]

What did you check the battery with Dave? 
With the engine running you should get >14 v. Sounds like you need to investigate alternator issue. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Chalky13]

I checked it with a car battery checker, clipped on both 

I’ve fitted the battery this morning, no difference to fault lights on, headlamp distance error, stop/start not working and stabilisation error, plus flashing glow plus.

The tester can check the alternator, just need to find it and how to do that I guess.

thanks Gareth, appreciate the pointer, that’s a huge help. 

[Chalky13]

3 hours ago, Magnet said:

What did you check the battery with Dave? 
With the engine running you should get >14 v. Sounds like you need to investigate alternator issue. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth, I’ve just checked the system again and the battery shows 13.8 when the engine is running. Would you say the alternator is needed, I’ve managed to track one down for stop start, as they appear rare as rockIng horse !Removed! at the moment! 

[Stevey Y]

8 hours ago, Chalky13 said:

Hi Gareth, I’ve just checked the system again and the battery shows 13.8 when the engine is running. Would you say the alternator is needed, I’ve managed to track one down for stop start, as they appear rare as rockIng horse !Removed! at the moment! 

Hi you need to get the battery recoded to the car, the alternator output at the plug [back probed] should be 14-14.5v.

Steve.

[Chalky13]

How do I code the battery? Isn’t it just a plug in and sorted ? 

[Chalky13]

I’ll be taking the car to a local garage next week, seems that there’s no-one on the site here most days for advice.

 

thanks for the advice though

[Stevey Y]

5 hours ago, Chalky13 said:

I’ll be taking the car to a local garage next week, seems that there’s no-one on the site here most days for advice.

 

thanks for the advice though

Hi unfortunately if you don't quote the post that you want a reply to it won't come up as a flag on any of the posters email so they won't know that you required an answer to their post, I have been on here most evenings at some point but in the absence of a request for a further answer you just don't know.

Steve.

[Chalky13]

1 minute ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi unfortunately if you don't quote the post that you want a reply to it won't come up as a flag on any of the posters email so they won't know that you required an answer to their post, I have been on here most evenings at some point but in the absence of a request for a further answer you just don't know.

Steve.

I wasn’t aware of that Steve. I did ask about coding the battery though earlier. 
thanks 

[Stevey Y]

22 hours ago, Chalky13 said:

I wasn’t aware of that Steve. I did ask about coding the battery though earlier. 
thanks 

Hi yes the new battery will have to be coded most garages have some sort of battery pairing facilities it just lets the charging system know it has a new unit therefore it won't carry on charging at the higher rate and kill the new battery, life is never simple and the same system has been on most cars since 2008 with the exception of the Mini one which up to 2011 you just threw the battery in and that was it.

Steve.