Hi All,

I am posting here to hopefully help someone else with this issue in the future.

First some back story. My car is 197k 2012 sline 2.0l avant 6 speed manual. About 180k I got some watery diesel but bar that has been a dream regularly serviced every 20k. I bought it at 70k and had full Audi SH so I kept that oh till I had a crash and it was written off. I bought it back and fixed it. All damage was body work. That was about 150k

Recently I have been getting a chucking is all I can say it is and as fit the engine wants to exit the car at high speed in 1st to 4th gear and on cold starts. When up to temp its a little better but you can feel it. Its just unreliable when crossing roads etc. I do not travel very far so I waited as long as I could thinking it was gearbox related as it happen when you engage the clutch.

I have had a lot of work done in the past while due to carbon build up so all new pieces added in and around EGR turbo etc. Fuel filter been changed twice and tank emptied.

Latest (and to no fault of my independent mechanic, he has been great!) we are at a loss. No codes are present and things that changed are but not limited to

New Accelerator Pedal

Air Flow Meter

Fuel pressure sensor

Re-Map with EGR removal

Diesel purge

 

Issues are still persistent but I will now try to get a Ross Tech kit and see if I can find anything else wrong around fuel delivery. I really like my car and I dont want to give up on it for some new electric crap.

I will update this with anything else I find and hopefully it helps someone else down the line!

So an update! 

The car has been running ALOT better since I got it back from my excellent mechanics. 

Mechanic has added below in to the fuel (1/3 of a tank in it) and I think its night and day. This would then point to injectors and a hangover from the watery fuel I picked up a while back. I am still waiting for my delivery of the VCDS so I can have a deeper look, Carly is just not cutting it.

Glad you're a step closer to getting this resolved, please keep us posted on how you get on 

Will do! its very weird and also shocking how we are useless these days without codes 🙂 Expect VCDS  next week so will run through it as well all on here.

How long was water sitting in the fuel system Jonny? It may have caused corrosion of the HP pump and/or injectors.

Bare in mind too that remapping can itself cause problematic running.

Yeh the remap was purely to delete the EGR and was only attempted as last resort. As for how long I would say it ran with dirty stuff for about 3-4 days was a full tank and sent to mechanic as was ruff as f**. Pretty much all of the fuel system was replaced after that in-fact fuel filter done again after it and tank flushed. Injectors where never touched just due to costs.

I am hoping to be able to see any issues with the injectors in VCDS and maybe point me into a direction rather than this scatter gun approach, but I guess at thsi point not much left but them 🙂

So found another issue today. Cruise no longer works. No errors or anything the leaver just does not work with no lights on dash. Not tried it for a code yet but just documenting encase related. 

Get the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause the symptoms you report, such as limp mode, loss of cruise control. When mine was dying I also had loss of radio pre-sets as well.

Th is interesting never thought of the battery. It’s not limp mode as much as a cough if you get me. Will test it though as never changed the battery before in it

Look at this thread:

 

https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

 

Thanks Clifford.

I received my VCDS and did a quick scan and battery test as best as I could in the time I had.

I do want to say this with I am still running fine engine wise and have not added any new untreated fuel yet. 

However 34 faults found and to be honest t of them are saying battery or safety reason due to voltages. So I have a new battery ordered and I will pick it up tomorrow. I went with a Yuasa AGM115 Start/Stop Battery as I like Yuasa and also it was on a deal at local halfords who had it in stock (£169)

As for injectors they look within tolerance but again running fine at the minute. I will update when battery swapped out.

Thanks everyone!

 

Edit: all values are while car running

Edited October 20, 2025Oct 20 by jonny1983ie

Don't forget to code the new battery to the car with VCDS.

ah balls didnt know a 2012 would need coding. Thanks for the heads up! I will do a guide on it when doing it myself. (prob be weekend have a busy week)

HI Everyone, 

Sorry no reply but had to wait to weekend.

So Good news, new battery is fitted and coded.... Was a bit of a ball ache as Yuasa batteries do not come with the usual stickers.

For others coding all you really need is the battery size and the serial. The serial is on the top sticker. I saw some say peal that sticker off but in mine it was not there. Got it form halfords. I did notice car was set for like a 94 battery when it was a 80 and I put in a 80. It was a napa battery which I thought was only in America so it must have been changed at one point. Also for make Napa was JCB I just put mine as unknow. It shouldn't matter.

Also, my treated tank of fuel was down to 15 miles left on Thursday so it has 40ltr of pure Diesel in it now untreated to see if the pulsing comes back. About 50 miles in and nothing yet.

So I know what you are all dying to know. I had 35 faults before...... now I have 36 😆

I am going to go through them now 1 by 1. However I thought I had cleared the codes after battery swap but some are still showing old dates as last seen. Does not help I didn't fix the clock so it was saying midnight. 

One thing for sure.... cruse is still not working after battery change I am sorry to say. Again no lights on dash...... (bar low tyre pressure which I know about) I am beginning to wonder are the bulbs working 😆

Anyway I will list all the 36 errors first then try to clear again and go for a spin, but that will be tomorrow at this stage.

 

Thanks everyone have a good weekend!

 

Edited October 25, 2025Oct 25 by jonny1983ie
Spelling

Engine

4482 - Function Restriction due to Implausible Messages - U1112 (this looks to the issue with cruse after a google or 2. Alot saying ECU)

 

ABS

0069 - Function Restriction due to Implausible Messages - U1111 00 - (I know about these. The Bead is not seating right in an alloy I love to bounce off potholes)

0604 - Tire Pressure Warning - 0604

0629 - Tire Pressure Warning

 

Acc/Start Auth

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) - (this one, no clue as everything is working key wise and no fuse blown)

 

Auto HVAC

0276 - Engine Off Timer Performance P150A (oh I think this is from adding the new battery and I set the time)

 

Cent. Elect (one this I am not sure I said but I had a wreak front left into a toe bar. Wonder is that these as repair wiring when I saw it was duck tape and a dream!)

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)

01314 - Engine Control Module

004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

0473 - Control Module for Elect. Park/Hand Brake (J540)

01316 - ABS Control Module

01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) - Intermittent

01320 - Control Module in Climatronic - Intermittent

01309 - Power Steering Control Module (J500)

 

Steering Wheel (few years back (prob 10) clock spring was replaced but been fine since)

01316 - ABS Control Module

01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533)

 

Door Elect Driver (J255)

01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255) (changed Air conditioning pressure switch in last year could be related)

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)

01316 - ABS Control Module

01314 - Engine Control Module

01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)

 

Steering Assist (wondering could this be me at the battery)

18689 - Terminal 30

** at this point I have given up googling all these. I am going to clear and see

Central Conv (J393)

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)

01314 - Engine Control Module

01316 - ABS Control Module

00473 - Control Module for Elect Park

01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster

00457 - Central Electrics Control Module / BCM (J519)

 

Door Elect 

01320 - Control Module for Climatronic

01321 - Control Module for Airbags

01316 - ABS Control Module

01314 - Engine Control Module

01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster

 

Information Electr

03278 - Functionally Limited due to Missing Messages

03157 - Functionality limited due to Communication Disruption

 

So Sorry 36 in total, I know alot are just same over and over. And also sorry to anyone who finds this in google looking a fix for one of these codes!

I will clear and see what comes back

 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2025Oct 25 by jonny1983ie
Update

"If it was a horse it would be in the glue factory"

Cheers Da!

EGG all over my face!

so turns out I was scanning the wrong CAN value I was scanning FC should have been 4G. Now I only have 4 faults and two are the low pressure warning for the tyre. 
 

0276 engine off timer performance 

4482 function restriction due to implausible 

are the two left

5 hours ago, jonny1983ie said:

EGG all over my face!

so turns out I was scanning the wrong CAN value I was scanning FC should have been 4G. Now I only have 4 faults and two are the low pressure warning for the tyre. 
 

0276 engine off timer performance 

4482 function restriction due to implausible 

are the two left

Hi unfortunately you will always get the odd hangers on I had it with my car you have to get to the mindset of ignoring the codes that do not affect the running and scan once a month to clear any irrelevant codes, Audi thought they were really clever designing a software that registered a code for everything, but its not clever it just gives the uneducated something to pay for and worry about every time it went to the dealers for a service.

Steve.

Thanks Steve

Yeh I think though this code might help (as only 2 really)

Looking about the interwebs one gentleman said he had a code like mine and no cruse but if he left OBD plugged in it worked and point to ECM/ECU connections (thanks that man)

So I need to try that now see if it works when plugged in.

 

On another note, I think I felt my first pulse today after putting in fresh fuel. Will wait till alot worse and then try the treatments again. 

Anyone want to see any other values let me know.

 

Hi all...... what a week!

Anyway, on Saturday morning I had a 4h round trip and said what a time to take the Audi for a spin. about 30 mins in I forgot about the cruse control. (to be honest I find it dangerous now as my Q4 has adaptive and I forget mine A6 doesn't! ) but I needed to refuel. The minute I pulled away after filling up a half tank the jittering started.

I kind of noticed at 1.8 RPM and 58 MPH but that could jus the journey. You cant "push through" you almost have to down shift and then build up revs then go again. Never really noticed it in 6th gear before but this is longest I have driven in a while in this car.

Anyway today I mixed my special juice the mechanic told me he used as the 5lt drums arrived. Note the Dipetane is almost gel like so my idea of a jerry can to have it pre mixed was a no go. Anyway I put them in the tank and went for a spin up the dual carriageway with VCDS on log. And I caught it! attached is the raw with some stuff removed like times etc. I have also added some formatting to highlight red if >2.0 or < -2.0 and as you can see cylinder 2 & 3 are very bad. I could see it live too. when I felt it I looked at my screen and could see it hit 2/3 and then go back down.

So at this stage I am looking at replacing injectors? If so should I do them all or just 2&3? Also I really want to try this myself so any indication on if ok for a novice would be great as YouTube makes everything seam simple!

Oh also as previous the VCDS connected did not make cruse work so not looking at ECU any more its more than likely stalk switch and or clock spring

 

attaching image of values sorted by worse in cylinder 3 for those who do not want to download attachment

 

LOG-01-IDE00365_&3.xlsx

Edited November 2, 2025Nov 2 by jonny1983ie
upload

Good work investigating the problem Jonny. Stevey Y is probably the best person to advise on injector changing.

Thanks Cliff,

Any idea what brand OEM ones are / if there are better after market ones?

Also I have done a bit of reading, ask my car was very heavy clogged with carbon could that be the issue with the injectors and they just need services new seals and a clean?

 

Just say a guy using the puller to remove and eh no I do not want to attempt that on my own!

Edited November 2, 2025Nov 2 by jonny1983ie

1 hour ago, jonny1983ie said:

Thanks Cliff,

Any idea what brand OEM ones are / if there are better after market ones?

Also I have done a bit of reading, ask my car was very heavy clogged with carbon could that be the issue with the injectors and they just need services new seals and a clean?

 

Just say a guy using the puller to remove and eh no I do not want to attempt that on my own!

Hi the best people to go see for injectors are United Diesels, they are brilliant with advice and will give you options, as for doing it yourself if you have never tackled something like this before I would use a garage as the injectors go through a rubber seal on the rocker cover which will also need changing, the seals are cheap TPS but they will probably suggest you need new fuel feed pipes for the injectors which is rubbish as if you have someone who knows what they are about and wont over tighten them the old pipes will go again, from a personal point of view with that in mind your milage I would change all four as these are Piezo injectors and are very delicate and precise in operation, the old type of injectors had  a detent ball and spring arrangement which when the engine was revved would bounce and overfuel hence black smoke, Piezo on the other hand are controlled by electrical current to make the Piezo slices expand and contract and never over lift the pintle this is supported by extra Venturi that are 0.6 which is finer than a human hair and these allow precise addition or decline of fuel up to five times in any given cylinder cycle therefore creating almost perfect fuelling, I have used Dipetane for a few years now, what a wonderful product, as its a hydrocarbon it absorbs water from the combustion process and burns it.

Steve.

2 hours ago, jonny1983ie said:

Thanks Cliff,

Any idea what brand OEM ones are / if there are better after market ones?

Also I have done a bit of reading, ask my car was very heavy clogged with carbon could that be the issue with the injectors and they just need services new seals and a clean?

 

Just say a guy using the puller to remove and eh no I do not want to attempt that on my own!

Hi the O.E. injectors are Bosch but I am led to believe Delphi do them as well, there is nothing that you can change on them or clean unless you have specialist equipment, new injectors will need coding.

WOW thanks Steve that is some knowledge! I will contact my mechanic, I know he would not do fix but he has a specialist. 

Thanks everyone, I will prob wait till the new year to do this however so will report back!