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New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.

Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950

Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!

Recently the car has been giving the impression of a flat battery when trying to start. It would turnover a couple of times but very very slowly. Turning the ignition off and then on again and the car would turn over slowly and then speed up and start but this may take a few attempts. It gave all the impressions of a poor starter motor. But having fitted one on a previous Q7 I know this is a 4 hour job and even with a decent discount is still over £200 for the unit. So decided to ring a local auto electrician that could hopefully diagnose exactly the part that needed replacing. (Vagcom showed nothing amiss by the way). He turned up and checked the car over and said that the cars alternator was charging the battery at around 13.6v. This is a indication of a poor earth and fitted another earth cable from the earth point under the bonnet used for jump starting to the engine manifold. Said he’s fitted loads as it’s a well known problem within VAG that the earths corrode over time and need cleaning. The car now charges at just over 14v and starts better than it ever did less than 2 seconds from turning the key. Turns over faster than my mates 2011 and 2014 Q7’s. Cost £10 for the earth cable and £40 for callout Including 1 hours labour. Hope this is helpful to anybody with a similar problem.

After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂

Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.

Yea I'm all ok. Brake fluid is definitely less than 2 years old. You know me Trevor I'm hot on maintenance. Especially with the nature of the work I do. It was scary to say the least. But could have been worse

Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Until I bought my Audi I drove and towed with a BMW X3 and cruise control was available when towing on that. I just can't see any reason why Audi have decided to do this. But I'd still have the Audi in preference to the X3

I’ll check the size on mine later when it stops raining

I have a 72 plate Q5 40tdi owned for 12 months and used mainly for longer journeys. Absolutely no DPF issues whatsoever. In addition prior to that I had 2 diesel Evoques and a Discovery sport again used mainly for long journeys between Cumbria and Northumberland. No issues at all on any of these. The Q5 gives me about 45mpg on most trips. The Evoques gave about 43mpg.

Hi there are two thermostats one on the water pump which is prone to sticking open, if its a cn engine and has the solid inlet manifold the other thermostat is under that that one controls the cabin heat and you can change it without removing the manifold just buy a new core unit and seal, I did mine on my A6 similar engine it fiddly but doable, also posted pics of parts and how to in the A6 C7 part of the forum. Steve.

Just a quick update in case anyone comes across similar problem. After removing parts of plastic trim around the steering wheel/column and above the pedals it became clear that the sound is actually coming from the part where the steering column enters the floor/bulkhead. There is a metal plate surrounded by a rubber part. The steering column goes into that metal plate. Some gentle prodding and plenty of lubricant in that area, especially under the edges of the rubber part seem to have sorted it out and the squeak appears to be gone, so I consider it fixed (at least for now).

The pipe itself is part of the vacuum system, will connect to 1 of the turbo/wastegate/egr valve solenoids

All done now really happy but now thinking of renewing warranty in August using Motor Easy as they deal with consequential damage which many companies don’t any thoughts on this company I believe they used to be Warranties Direct

Hi you should never put a kink in any part of the washer pipe as this will cause all sorts of problems the pipes are routed with gentle bends and you will never lose pressure because both circuits from the pump have anti drain-back valves so when the pump is not being used the valves shut to maintain the pressure, example, last summer one of my cab colleagues could only get his washers to work at the front with the bonnet up, turns out he had replaced all the feed tubes with silicone hoses but forgotten to do each section against the old pipe so the one that went to the tank was about 10mm to short and kinked when he closed the bonnet, thats how critical it is.

Hello Steven, Is the boot water in contact with any electrical junction boxes etc. or wiring? If so, this needs to be mopped up, all electrical components carefully dried with a hair dryer, before spraying with contact cleaner. It would also be worth having the battery efficiency checked, before engaging in any more expensive diagnostics. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Steven. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It is obviously desirable to fix the source of your leaks - usually the air vents, but a forum search should colour in the detail for you.

i booked in for a gear box oil change online for my audi a4 tdi 2011.they came back to me as not needed.but at 196k my 1st & 2nd gears are notchy sometimes.(have to double clutch).so ive checked with a garage. £150-£180.not booked in yet.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Thanks for the reply. Luckily we managed to find the fault with the Alfa Romeo 159 Q4 and get it fixed pretty cheaply so I'm out of the market for an A6 now. I got so many replies on the Alfaowner Forum with suggestions for possible faults but it turns out that the rear ZF Differential on the 2.4 diesel differs from the 3.2 petrol by having a cylindrical rubber bonded damper on it on which the rubber bond has failed (after 16 years and 137,000 miles) and which was an easy fix! Many more happy miles of Alfa motoring to come!! Guy

HI All, About to become the owner of a 2021 A6 Avant. Rather excited to say the least. Collect it next tuesday, which seems like years away right now. I come from the Skoda fold having been the owner of a few Superbs, and I just changed from a Superb estate to this A6 Avant. Tried both this and a Superb of the same year and the decision was quite easy. The allure of the bigger engine and being quite a bit more plush inside was what sold me. Hoping for good things now. Already a VCDS owner as I do a lot of maintenance myself, among restoring older cars. Just get the dealer to do enough to stamp the book basically. In between I do all the rest in my workshop, including interim oil changes, brakes etc. It's how I took one of my Superbs to over 400k miles without too much drama. Looking forward to all the information I can pick up here, and hopefully see some of you at the various pub meets. Best. Dom.

Hi I think you answered your Question in the last sentence which equates to not a lot, all these engines were tested to destruction and when they break they take them to pieces to find out what caused the failure, they strengthen the offending part and up the torque/ BHP slightly, if it works well they just keep upping the power to way past the intended production run power, then whatever the engine has achieved up to 45% above the production Torque/BHP if it runs ok they reduce that figure by 45% to the production run power, thats your reliability factor, if you bear this in mind with the age of your car you are just putting more strain on an old engine thats made it this far with no real issues/wear and I bet if it all goes pear shaped and bits start failing he wont want to know unless it involves more money. Steve.

Hi I agree with Steve and Gareth on both options, can you specify what has failed as if its a pipe its either repairable or substituted with a different material with a similar bore, if you look at it I wouldn't mind betting your system is exactly the same as the A4/A5/A6 I think its a safe bet as VAGs love of globalisation means one part fits a load of other models, I to am a cabbie and I know exactly where you are coming from, I feel for you I really do, no car is like someone has cut your throat financially, I have come across this none in the country for your vehicle CR@P loads of times as with my engine mounts, ended up buying FEBI units which also fitted the A4 with a CNHA engine, oh no I was told by the main stealer they wont last, 70k later says no difference. If you get in a jam just get the adblue mapped out until you can get the parts its a lot cheaper than being off the road for six months. Steve.

Is this the same clunk you posted about on June 11th, and which you failed to respond to Gareth's suggestion?

Samuele. The car should respond much more rapidly than that to an increase in engine speed, so I suggest clutch wear or a fault in the Mechatronic clutch control mechanism. Probably the latter as they have a reputation for being troublesome. 76000 miles is an unusually small mileage for a 17 year old car. Can you be sure it is correct?

By way of an update - I was able to connect my iPod via Bluetooth but due to its age only with limited functionality. I was advised to make use of the CarPlay system which works in conjunction with an iPhone. Now I am able to create playlists on the iPhone which can be called up in the car. Sadly it seems now that the iPod is fast becoming obsolete.

Update, I've just inspected & found the V belt to have split in half & snapped. It looked to be in pretty bad shape. Its been squealing a bit recently & the AC was regassed two weeks prior & has been on most of the time putting more strain on an already old & 'past it' V belt. I'll get a new one fitted & report my findings back.

Update it's been a long time since the original post so I thought I would update what I did after removing the cam carrier and with all valves closed, the pressure test was not conclusive in that it passed the initial test on all cylinders but failed a repeat test, I suspected that the pressure tester was faulty. I tested it in a closed circuit and it leaked I assumed that the original test was OK and that the second failed test was due to breakdown of the of the tester. Having taken off the cam carrier the problem was cam timing setup so purchased a gig but it was impossible to accurately set them up with this bit of kit after a long process the suppliers gave me a refund after sending the unit back. What I did to time the cams:- I used the cam carrier one cam has a horizontal slot in it so I used small bit of steel and a feeler gauge to get the cam perfectly horizontal in the cam carrier I then offered up the second cam to the carrier using a long socket on a flat surface of that cam to set the indents in that cam in the complete vertical position then checking the other cam with the long socket. Having setup the cams i now fabricated a holder or cam clamp very simple two pieces of wood with four holes in each piece setting the strips of wood so they would not inter fear with the installation I passed two medium cable ties through each piece of wood so that they secured the cams to the the carrier (My Cam Holder Gig). It worked flawlessly. My TT back on the road and running well.

Hi the slave and bearing are all one piece the slave is about £100 on eBay, genuine part, then you will need the seal that goes in the middle of it, Mark is right its nothing like any other car I have worked on as the driveshaft runs in the middle of the flywheel edge so when you remove the driveshaft you have to replace that seal as well and to remove the old seal you have to remove the diff housing as the seal is fitted inside that, yes its a monumental task I didn't do mine but the guy that did it is a friend and I was there for nine hours on cleaning and tea detail so I saw the whole process including when the clutch master cylinder wouldn't pressure up, if you buy these cars there are a good few items that aint cheap but shopping around gets it cheaper, like my mates MK2 Escort clutch £140 but for anything later those days are long gone.